Out of Dormancy early?

Scooter9166 - 5a

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In early February, we had a Chicago suburb warm-up, and most of my plants woke up. Once they started showing leaves, the temps went back down, and I've only been able to get them outside a couple of afternoons for a few hours. Most of the trees look healthy (leaves are progressing, new shoots taking off, my lilac bloomed). But a number of the bushes now have wilting/droopy leaves All of the plants have southern exposure for several hours a day.

Two obvious explanations come to mind: the dormancy period wasn't long enough and they just aren't getting enough sunlight. It's still at least a couple of weeks before they can safely be outside for more than a few hours. Is there anything I can do in the meantime? Is there a way to tell the difference between short dormancy, insufficient light or both? I have fertilized everything that seemed healthy, but not anything with droopy leaves.

Thanks.

Scott
 

WNC Bonsai

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Without photos this is hard to answer but I’ll take a stab at it. First, where were they kept over the winter—unheated garage, basement, coldframe? You now probably have moved them from a low light environment to a bright southerly exposure and that sunlight is beating down on them all of a sudden. Trees that break bud and leaf out outside can take more direct light than those that leafed out inside a garage, etc. You need to slowly acclimate them to the change in light. Also depending on the storage conditions they may now be literally drying out due to a breeze and exposure. Are you misting them occasionally to prevent desiccation? More info would help along with photos.
 

rockm

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If the plants are leafing out they have satisfied their dormancy requirements. There is no such thing as a "short dormancy" really.

Temperate deciduous trees have genetically determined requirements for a minimum of "chill hours" --that is root temps below 40 or so. That range can be many months or a couple, depends on species and local genetic stock (IMO).

Once that minimum is met, the tree is able to begin growing again, depending on root temperature. If the soil around the roots gets warm enough, the tree is stimulated to grow. Spring sunshine warms the ground gradually and this process is a bit of a "fail safe" against the tree mistaking a warm spell in early feb for full-on spring. The process is accelerated in a bonsai pot because of the small soil volume.

Anyway, the limp growth you're seeing is probably because a combination of not enough light and not enough humidity. You're trying to grow temperate trees inside with forced air heat and extremely low light conditions (and moving them in and out repeatedly doesn't do any good, and could be a problem--as that is making the tree constantly readjust to changing conditions. Trees in the ground don't change location.

Leave the trees inside until frost/freeze dangers have passed. That will mean you will continue to get weak, leggy pale, unhealthy looking growth. You could get an artificial light set up that could help a bit. If you have a bathroom with a skylight, that would be ideal, as there's more light and humidity. I would NOT put the tree on a window sill, as drafts and dropping temperatures could cause damage.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Next year, find a location to winter your trees that stays colder than the one you used this year. I am in the Chicago area and all my trees are still dormant. Half are outside, on the ground, under or next to their bench, the rest are in a below ground, unheated well house. Ground is still frozen, so well house is still below 40 F.
 

Scooter9166 - 5a

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@Cofga & @rockm - Fortunately, I have radiator heat, so the forced air isn't a problem My tropicals are all fine. But I will see if I can increase the humidity, and give them stability.

@Cofga & @Leo in N E Illinois - Most of them were in a cellar & a few next to the cellar in an unheated basement. I was able to keep them below 40F for a while. Next year, I will play it less safe.

@Cadillactaste - I am in denail re: aphids. I will check.

@Dav4 - Noted

I will get pics.
 

rockm

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@Cofga & @rockm - Fortunately, I have radiator heat, so the forced air isn't a problem My tropicals are all fine. But I will see if I can increase the humidity, and give them stability.

@Cofga & @Leo in N E Illinois - Most of them were in a cellar & a few next to the cellar in an unheated basement. I was able to keep them below 40F for a while. Next year, I will play it less safe.

@Cadillactaste - I am in denail re: aphids. I will check.

@Dav4 - Noted

I will get pics.
Radiators are even worse than forced air. unless you have a pot of water on the radiator, all that heat is drier than forced air (which can be equipped with humidifiers)

You aren't specific about what has come into leaf--are these all tropical or are some temperate/deciduous trees?

If the temp in your basement is above 40 F, it's too warm.
 

Scooter9166 - 5a

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@rockm - the tropicals were fine all winter in the living area (around 70F)...the temperate/deciduous trees starting leafing when the temps got above 50 outside and in the cellar.
 

Scooter9166 - 5a

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Cotoneaster with droopy leaves. Also, now some yellow leaves.
 

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Scooter9166 - 5a

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Burning bush with droopy leaves and weird, dried out leaves.
 

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rockm

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That looks to me like either a humidity problem or a root problem. How much are you watering these?
 

Todd-H

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In the future both of those would survive outdoors through the winter in the Chicago area. Protect the cotoneaster from strong winds. For now I would put them outside anytime the temps are above 40 but be careful they don't get frosted. If you have an unheated garage that would be fine at night. The warmer you keep them the more they will grow and you will further the issues.
 

Scooter9166 - 5a

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@rockm - too much water it seems. I was inexplicably awake at 3 am, so I looked at the roots of the cotoneaster, and it was not pretty. I cleaned them up, and I have my fingers crossed.
 

Scooter9166 - 5a

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@Todd-H - I have them in an unheated porch. I'll move them away from the southern windows, so they should get less warm.
 

sorce

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Next year, find a location to winter your trees that stays colder than the one you used this year. I am in the Chicago area and all my trees are still dormant.

This has worked well for me this year, just avoiding what warmth the days sun can melt, kept soil frozen throughout yesterday, and these other 60degree days.

Sorce
 

sorce

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I just chickened out

Quite honestly I can't say that's true without knowing exactly what each of your trees is in, on, and about....

Which is only to say that that move is likely much better described as "rookiely calculated", which means....

What you're going to learn from this is going to be way greater than anything you may lose due to this little frrrnt!

I killed a pimp ass cotoneaster a season or 2 ago with a "rookiely calculated" move....
That determination is not lost, its just going to show itself in a tree that is not Bitch Ass!
Lol!

I have a theory, because of observations during extensive travels about for years, that says our "lake effect" weather begins a taper off at the Desplaines river....but you are still inside this Great lakes Eff Zone.

We must be very careful about the advice we use.

Sorce
 
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