BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Well this has generated some heat in the past.
My understanding: the problem in keeping trees too wet is generating a stagnant water layer. Roots consume oxygen and can deplete the oxygen from stagnant water, leading to root death. With a well draining, mostly inorganic soil, watered correctly (until water flows freely from the bottom), in a well draining pot, every time you water you replace oxygen depleted water with freshly oxygenated water. If the soil mix is designed so that it does not hold too much water then it's impossible to over water.
However, if you use that soil and forget to water for a day or two, you might not be happy with the result.
My understanding: the problem in keeping trees too wet is generating a stagnant water layer. Roots consume oxygen and can deplete the oxygen from stagnant water, leading to root death. With a well draining, mostly inorganic soil, watered correctly (until water flows freely from the bottom), in a well draining pot, every time you water you replace oxygen depleted water with freshly oxygenated water. If the soil mix is designed so that it does not hold too much water then it's impossible to over water.
However, if you use that soil and forget to water for a day or two, you might not be happy with the result.
Cypress187
Masterpiece
I can overwater anything, but with good draining soil it's almost impossible.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Using all inorganic material such as lava, pumice, haydite and DE....in a round pot with a tapering "cereal bowl" shape and nice big drainage holes....I've had no issues with over watering...
However, in some flat bottom pots, you will have that stagnant layer that @BrianBay9 spoke of.
However, in some flat bottom pots, you will have that stagnant layer that @BrianBay9 spoke of.
coltranem
Chumono
Possible..... absolutely....nothing is idiot proof
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
You should see the equipment designed specifically for McDonald's kitchens....
Idiot Proof is the Name of the Game!
It's a misnomer to call the employees "burger flippers", because the idiot proof equipment takes care of that for them.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Yes it is. Some types of trees prefer to dry out a bit between watering. Watering constantly prevents that.
GGB
Masterpiece
I'm guilty of over watering. Even diagnosing this mistake I still haven't fixed it. It's completely amazing how dry you can let some trees become and they don't show a single sign of stress. I forced myself not to water my ptich pine this morning despite the first inch of the soil being dry and everything below being mildly moist. Phew .. scary though
Lazylightningny
Masterpiece
This is a good point (stagnant water vs fresh oxygenated water) and one I learned the hard way. Another point is that if you withhold water, the fine roots at the surface will dessicate and die. Another hard lesson. This can be mitigated bu putting shredded and sifted sphagnum moss on the surface as an evaporative loss deterrent. In hot weather I water twice a day.
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
It is not so much a matter of watering too much as it is having a soil that does not dry out, yes it is a matter of soil mix. When it is a problem that's where you are dealing with a tree that needs dry periods. Bristlecone Pine is one tree that likes to have drought periods at times, some people claim that many of the Japanese White Pines are of the same proclivity.
Lazylightningny
Masterpiece
JWP on their own roots, I assume?
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Johnathan
Omono
GGB
Masterpiece
I have seen pitch on some pretty dry sites but I don't know much about them. In comparison to bc, hemlock, tamarck, silver maple and loblolly they're basically cacti haha. I stick with mostly wetlands type stuff. So anything else is pretty hard to get used to
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
It's Kev
Omono
Back to my war with air conditioners and trees, my ficus m. (resilient bastard that it is) was placed under the condensation drainage line of said air conditioner because it can handle a lot of water. And it’s going from strength to strength. But the oxygen vs stagnant water that’s been discussed makes sense, and the constant drip does allow oxygen to get to the roots then.
Johnathan
Omono
Thats exactly right, my bad. I was confusing loblolly with pitch!
I'm pretty sure I read something from Vance about mugo like water.... now how much they like? I dunno lol
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
The problem, the real problem....
Temperature. Time. Droplet Size. Distance from Source in regards to Droplet Size as pertains to force of water to break surface tension....
Blah blah blah....
A cold soil/surface treatment particle is contracted, warm water will cause it to expand, watering is easier in this scenario. So Duration of watering can be less. Droplet Size is of less concern.
Warm Soil/surface treatment is Expanded, large cold droplets can roll off easier. A small particle mist is best. A long duration.
In the Fall...Every Fall, even with unrepotted trees, watering becomes more difficult.
More roots, more micros dead in the soil surface , more moss, temp changes...
NOT REALIZING HOW MUCH MORE WATER JUNIPERS NEED NOW AS COMPARED TO EVERYTHING ELSE.
Trees that Don't wake up in Spring were UNDERWATERED THE PREVIOUS FALL.
But it damm sure seemed they were overwatered.....
That's the problem problem.
What is... Superwatered...it is more than Overwatering and root rot cant take hold in a constantly flowing situation. This is the extreme...but this IS where most autosprinklers systems water at due to droplet size/duration.
That's why they are healthy trees.
Key understanding is what it takes to break "stagnant" all the way thru any soil.
Resorce.
S
Temperature. Time. Droplet Size. Distance from Source in regards to Droplet Size as pertains to force of water to break surface tension....
Blah blah blah....
A cold soil/surface treatment particle is contracted, warm water will cause it to expand, watering is easier in this scenario. So Duration of watering can be less. Droplet Size is of less concern.
Warm Soil/surface treatment is Expanded, large cold droplets can roll off easier. A small particle mist is best. A long duration.
In the Fall...Every Fall, even with unrepotted trees, watering becomes more difficult.
More roots, more micros dead in the soil surface , more moss, temp changes...
NOT REALIZING HOW MUCH MORE WATER JUNIPERS NEED NOW AS COMPARED TO EVERYTHING ELSE.
Trees that Don't wake up in Spring were UNDERWATERED THE PREVIOUS FALL.
But it damm sure seemed they were overwatered.....
That's the problem problem.
What is... Superwatered...it is more than Overwatering and root rot cant take hold in a constantly flowing situation. This is the extreme...but this IS where most autosprinklers systems water at due to droplet size/duration.
That's why they are healthy trees.
Key understanding is what it takes to break "stagnant" all the way thru any soil.
Resorce.
S
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Mugos like a lot of circulation, they like to breath. Water in--- drives air out, rapid draining pulls air in--- as water is expelled. That is what happens with the first watering. What is important is to have a soil mix that will not break down and interupt that dynamic. I have found that it is not so much how much the Mugo likes water but how much is debatable. If the water sits there and the tree soaks in it roots will rot, the water must drain out. The Mugo thrives on the process of water in, air out, water out, air in. This circulation and movement helps prevent root rot.
