P. Strobus suggestions

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
Here’s my eastern white pine.
It looks like it has stood up and wants to take a stroll out of its container.
Bought this almost a year ago with much less discerning eyes. I do remember thinking it had character though🕷 like spider legs.
I’ve been keeping these legs buried for the most part, -It was potted up like this when I got it.

58042EFD-472D-4293-954D-88C0E35D8385.jpegC0906EB3-2CD6-42D2-AAAE-E876AF1AAD7A.jpeg

I’m wondering what may help this base become more interesting over time?
Repotting won’t be done for awhile as I put it in this big box last spring. When wise, I will begin working the roots then.
Any suggestions?
C7B7116B-5E55-4EBF-A768-43E9A605BFB0.jpeg
BB824EA7-BA96-4FB7-9D2F-0A92AB91C195.jpeg
thank you.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
Messages
11,341
Reaction score
23,293
Location
on the IL-WI border, a mile from ''da Lake''
USDA Zone
5b
I personally have had one or more P. strobus EWP, more or less my entire bonsai career, 40 years of experience with them. I have had individual trees that persisted in my collection for as much as 25 years of training. I find them singularly frustrating as bonsai. No matter what you do they will thwart your every attempt to get them looking any better than a shaggy mess. I currently have a few seedlings, which I keep around for the only purpose they are really good for, grafting understock. The roots of EWP will survive cold, wet, even water logged conditions in winter. They make excellent grafting understock for Japanese white pine, P. parviflora, for this reason. Otherwise, they are not worth the effort as bonsai. At least in my opinion.

But you need to struggle with one for a while, so knock yourself out. They are easy to grow horticulturally. Good luck.
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
I personally have had one or more P. strobus EWP, more or less my entire bonsai career, 40 years of experience with them. I have had individual trees that persisted in my collection for as much as 25 years of training. I find them singularly frustrating as bonsai. No matter what you do they will thwart your every attempt to get them looking any better than a shaggy mess. I currently have a few seedlings, which I keep around for the only purpose they are really good for, grafting understock. The roots of EWP will survive cold, wet, even water logged conditions in winter. They make excellent grafting understock for Japanese white pine, P. parviflora, for this reason. Otherwise, they are not worth the effort as bonsai. At least in my opinion.

But you need to struggle with one for a while, so knock yourself out. They are easy to grow horticulturally. Good luck.
Yeah. Of course your right. I’ve become aware (second hand) of many of the shortcomings in using strobus for bonsai.
I do like knowing how resilient they are though.
I think I’ll let it grow big while still trying to develop it a little. Would be cool to have a potted 3’ or better ewp to compliment the one in the yard. 😊
7EFA955A-D4F4-4FD9-A0AD-93740DE6713C.jpeg
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
Those roots are really going to be hard to fix.

I’d just plant it in the yard.
Yeah pretty crazy. Now I’m just wondering how crazy I can get them. Not fashionably bonsai, but grotesque and unique.
Maybe I’ll try and Frankenstein graft some more legs on it.
 

BonsaiDawg

Yamadori
Messages
95
Reaction score
84
Location
Seattle, WA
USDA Zone
8a
Here’s my eastern white pine.
It looks like it has stood up and wants to take a stroll out of its container.
Bought this almost a year ago with much less discerning eyes. I do remember thinking it had character though🕷 like spider legs.
I’ve been keeping these legs buried for the most part, -It was potted up like this when I got it.

View attachment 296085View attachment 296086

I’m wondering what may help this base become more interesting over time?
Repotting won’t be done for awhile as I put it in this big box last spring. When wise, I will begin working the roots then.
Any suggestions?
View attachment 296087
View attachment 296088
thank you.
This tree will not become anything special unless you plant it in the ground for at least 5 years. Alternatively you could put it in a colandar but I'd get it in the ground and let it grow unencumbered.
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
This tree will not become anything special unless you plant it in the ground for at least 5 years. Alternatively you could put it in a colandar but I'd get it in the ground and let it grow unencumbered.
Hmm. Yes I may put it in the ground. For now though I feel this wood planter is plenty large enough to grow out in. I don’t know.
thanks for your input!
 

BonsaiDawg

Yamadori
Messages
95
Reaction score
84
Location
Seattle, WA
USDA Zone
8a
Hmm. Yes I may put it in the ground. For now though I feel this wood planter is plenty large enough to grow out in. I don’t know.
thanks for your input!

Yes it's a wood container but the ground is 4x faster than that. If you don't want the ground than move it to a colandar
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
Yes it's a wood container but the ground is 4x faster than that. If you don't want the ground than move it to a colandar
Can I use a pond basket? Or do I have to use a colander?
 

BonsaiDawg

Yamadori
Messages
95
Reaction score
84
Location
Seattle, WA
USDA Zone
8a
Can I use a pond basket? Or do I have to use a colander?
Either works in my experience. I've also started experimenting with less expensive root bags, that so far seem to work similarly, with one modification: I thread wire around the bottom diameter of the bag and connect this with root ball tie down wires in an attempt to keep the tree stable.
 

vancehanna

Chumono
Messages
743
Reaction score
2,134
Location
Stockton, CA
USDA Zone
9A
I reported this tree today and as you may observe when healthy they are prolific with foliage. This is about 4-5yrs in this container and 40+yrs in development.
Candles are at 50mm top ones and about 25-30 mm on lower branches. Later
It will be completely de-candled and all new needles E7215319-9096-4705-BA05-3A86F94C2E97.jpegB03C31D6-D907-40B9-90AC-78CD19E29691.jpegshould be about 25-30mm
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
I reported this tree today and as you may observe when healthy they are prolific with foliage. This is about 4-5yrs in this container and 40+yrs in development.
Candles are at 50mm top ones and about 25-30 mm on lower branches. Later
It will be completely de-candled and all new needles View attachment 296671View attachment 296672should be about 25-30mm
Very impressive tree! That bark!
Did you do anything special to create such an amazing base? Besides keeping it alive for 40+ yrs?
 

Potawatomi13

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,173
Reaction score
4,404
Location
Eugene, OR
USDA Zone
8
Might make a change or two but nice tree. Admirable work;)
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
Some pics from my visit to the worlds ugliest white pine.
majestic. 3059DB08-3DD8-49D1-AC18-53AF6F32F8B4.jpeg0AB8F12C-92D3-4571-8416-FBF4F10EBF6D.jpeg9A1FD9B4-0B0E-474C-B344-B537DD53214F.jpeg
 

Eckhoffw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,985
Reaction score
4,873
Location
St. Paul Mn.
USDA Zone
4b
Revisited the EWP.
I took off one branch at the top whorl of 4.
Now a whorl of 3 I guess.
Wired it out and exposed more root. 69A35279-DD84-40B6-88A2-0A138459C850.jpeg855B7305-6629-4011-AD6C-D9F08FB15000.jpeg
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
Messages
11,341
Reaction score
23,293
Location
on the IL-WI border, a mile from ''da Lake''
USDA Zone
5b
If you would just bury that knot of roots, this tree is young enough that in a few years it could develop new roots above or coming from the top sides of those ugly roots. Leave those roots exposed much longer and they will never bud out new roots.

Never mind; it is probably too old, the roots have already formed too much bark to back bud new roots. It is an EWP in a few years you will be frustrated enough to put it on the burn pile.

Remember, as good as Vance Hanna's tree is, he has 45 years or more work into a tree that was 20 or 30 years old when he collected it.

Turning out a good EWP takes TIME. And skill.
 
Top Bottom