Palmatum

[MrFancyPlants]

I could use some styling advice if the pictures are good enough to interpret. Colin Lewis recommended picking a leader from the second whirl and I was a bit surprised. I was thinking a broom from the first set if branches. The lump around the first set will need some dremel work either way.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Are the pictures too crappy? How low should I go? chop chop

 

[berobinson82]

I'd have to agree with Colin from what is discernible from your images. I bet you'll get better feedback with better pics.

Also, chopping is half the fun.

 

[Poink88]

I'll chop as marked.

 

[drew33998]

I'll chop as marked.

Agree with Dario

 

[Martin Sweeney]

I would try to do something like this, which Dav4 showed in The Tree Thread here on B=Nut.

http://bonsainut.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48253&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1392692318

Regards,
Martin

 

[srunge55]

Does it make sense to air layer above Dario's red line and make two trees or is it better to just chop it and toss the top?

 

[Poink88]

Does it make sense to air layer above Dario's red line and make two trees or is it better to just chop it and toss the top?

I personally do not see a good enough reason to save the top so I won't. If you have a more pressing reason that may change. Note that airlayering taxes the "mother" plant and will set it back some. I will concentrate on the main tree if it is mine.

 

[drew33998]

Does it make sense to air layer above Dario's red line and make two trees or is it better to just chop it and toss the top?

I think it is always worth trying for. Even if it doesn't ever make good material you can use it for graft scions and cuttings to fuse to the nebari of the other one, or any other jm's that are the same species.

 

[small trees]

I think it is always worth trying for. Even if it doesn't ever make good material you can use it for graft scions and cuttings to fuse to the nebari of the other one, or any other jm's that are the same species.

I think it really depends on if OP is willing to put off development of the mother tree for a year or two. Compare that waiting against the value of the layer and you should be able to make your decision.

 

[drew33998]

I think it really depends on if OP is willing to put off development of the mother tree for a year or two. Compare that waiting against the value of the layer and you should be able to make your decision.

That is absolutely correct.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Well I tried to root the top as a cutting with no success. I'm not sure that I chopped it where Dario recommended.. Maybe a little higher. I might try to hollow out the top knuckle and bent the top up straighter if that is possible at this point.

Cheers to Ryan for selling me this one; I think it has a nice future with those roots.

 

[bwaynef]

Cheers to Ryan for selling me this one; I think it has a nice future with those roots.

Chop that root that's sticking out straight toward the camera and the nebari would improve dramastically*.





*See what I did there?

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I'm not disagreeing with you on removing the root, but I think I want to figure out what I want the front to be before I start removing roots. I think planting deeper or at a different angle could address the same issue. Anyone have any luck making bend like this in a thicker than a pencil trunk of maple? I might end up taking this to an advanced workshop somewhere where we can hollow it out, use some super thick gague wire and raffia to see if I can put a natiral looking top section on the tree.

 

[discusmike]

If it were mine I would let it grow for a few seasons and get some girth before chopping, otherwise it will take twice as long to thicken up the trunk, growing in the ground is better, tease out the roots and plant on a board or tile, this tree is young.

 

[tmmason10]

Depending on how tall you want the tree to be, it looks like cutting at the red line would create a new taper for the apex. I would also get rid of one of the bar branches, probably the one at the back of this photo but it's hard to tell.

 

[Eric Group]

Definitely need to do a little branch selection, but I think you did a good thing chopping it back. Prolly have to do the same kind of thing with mine soon..

 

[Giga]

I'm not disagreeing with you on removing the root, but I think I want to figure out what I want the front to be before I start removing roots. I think planting deeper or at a different angle could address the same issue. Anyone have any luck making bend like this in a thicker than a pencil trunk of maple? I might end up taking this to an advanced workshop somewhere where we can hollow it out, use some super thick gague wire and raffia to see if I can put a natiral looking top section on the tree.

I don't think is a wise option for a maple, especially a Jmaple. The hollow could become a major problem and would be problematic down the line with rot and have a large wound in the tree. I would make a branch selection then maybe let it grow in the ground to thicken up for a season or two then put it in a pot and work on ramification n such.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

I agree with Giga. I wouldn't scar Japanese maples if I don't have to. I'm fearful of it getting a bacterial or fungal infection of some sort. Plus it sounds like a lot of work for something in such an early stage. With maples that thin, you could do some bending if you plan it right without major surgery.

Is there inverse taper already at the bar branches? If so you may want to do a ground layer at that junction in the future after removing those branches. Or you could use one of those bar branches as a new leader. Still would want to ground layer where there's inverse taper.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

There is indeed some reverse taper, but I think it is addressable with a little dremmel action. Even my ginko rolls over a clean wound pretty fast. I am not adverse to planting this out for a couple years, but I like to have a clear direction for a tree before I commit to adding on a substantial amount of new growth. This tree has some obvious flaws, but I don't think they are insurmountable. I am going to try and work with what I have before doing a major chop or layer.. In fact, I think the base is the best part of the tree so the layer is basically out unless I am going to chop and start over from the bottom anyways. I could be wrong, but I think it is worth a shot rather than starting over.