No I don’t think so!Never heard of "Peking cotoneaster" before, browszed and found out it's "Cotoneaster acutifolia"
Too drastic ?
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There is always potential but some trees have more immediate potential and with others it will take longer or final potential maybe not so high.
Cotoneaster is generally a good genus for bonsai. They are hardy, tough and forgiving so great material to practice on and develop skills.
It looks like Alain has picked up the strong, straight sections of the trunks which don't look good on bonsai. Best option here is remove as indicated in Alain's virt. Cotoneaster will usually bud well after pruning so you may even get more options to develop after the initial prune.
With these larger leaves and relatively longer internodes I suspect it will look better as a medium sized tree rather than shohin size.
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Very useful information.
Thank you.
As a fallow up question,
I believe This thing is severely pot bound.
I can’t push a chopstick in the soil at all.
Any advice for going into winter?
Plant in the ground?
With these larger leaves and relatively longer internodes I suspect it will look better as a medium sized tree rather than shohin size.
Thank you so much Alain for the info.I don't know this species, but in the genus Cotoneaster, the ones I have are very root sensitive if you repot in autumn.
For Cotoneaster horizontalis, franchetti, lacteus, salicifolius, ... , the ones that grow in gardens here, I repot them when the first leaves have hardened, that is in Late-May, mid-June.
I agree with you.
From the photos, it looks more like the Cotoneaster lacteus family than Cotoneaster horizontalis family.
Notes :
- I suppose that like all the Cotoneasters I've had, healing a big scar is : ... very long. I don't know how to say that either in French or in another language, just the feeling it's hard dry wood where life doesn't want to be.
But you'll have to choose a trunk line, and the sooner the better, you can't keep these two "trunks", one which has the beginning of a movement, and one that goes straight up. Chop !
-- Sub-sthg : how to treat a scar ? Try to hide it or make dead wood an essential feature ?
-- Sub-sthg : even on "big" specimens, as far as I could see, big cuts are treated as dead wood,healing is reduced to the living part of the tree.
-AK-
Thanks for the input!I have two large stumps of these and a bunch of mame from laundry volunteers. They are much hardier than most other cotoneaster. Many say they are the only ones in the genus that are reliably hardy here. The leaves and internodes reduce well, so no worries about cutting low and making a smaller tree. I'll get some pictures tomorrow.
I think you can probably chop whenever the spring growth has "hardened off". My two largest ones had all foliage cut in early June and didn't seem to mind at all.Thanks for the input!
may let it run for awhile to get more vigor in it.
It didn’t do much last year, and then got dug up late last fall. It was shaded out a bit then but now get lots of sun.
Plan on a low chop in a month or so. Does that seem like a proper time?
Thanks.
Awesome. Thank you. Chop spot recommendations?I think you can probably chop whenever the spring growth has "hardened off". My two largest ones had all foliage cut in early June and didn't seem to mind at all.