Peter Warren on Satsuki.

fredman

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@Harunobu I understand what you're on about. I really do. Hell maybe it's just a miss understanding in some form or another. He frequently asks for people to email him. I would love to hear the outcome to this matter... ;)
I want to talk to you about flower removal. Do you agree with him that it's not good practice to remove flowers before the tree has opened them? It's common practice to remove so the tree don't spend the energy.
To me something within the tree has to "suffer" (for lack of a better word) when the tree can't go through it's flower/seed cycle . I'd rather do what he said and leave the flower to just when it opens, then remove.
You'll know the science behind that....?
 

Harunobu

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@HarunobuI want to talk to you about flower removal. Do you agree with him that it's not good practice to remove flowers before the tree has opened them? It's common practice to remove so the tree don't spend the energy.
To me something within the tree has to "suffer" (for lack of a better word) when the tree can't go through it's flower/seed cycle . I'd rather do what he said and leave the flower to just when it opens, then remove.
You'll know the science behind that....?

I actually agree with Warren on the first point on flower removal. I said I agree with many things he said. And I am also glad he pointed out that satsuki in Japan is not a bonsai hobby. It is a satsuki hobby. I think he did an excellent job explaining that. And I learned something about plants being more valuable, or less so, based on if they fit into a specific category for display/competitions.

But back to flower removal. The point some people sometimes made is that since flowers 'take energy away' from the tree, they should be removed in spring, to prevent the tree from flowering. And with energy, let's define it more precise as carbohydrate resources. Since the azalea actually produces the flowers in autumn, removing them in early spring does not conserve the carbohydrates the plant spend to grow these structures. They already grew. They only need to mature. I am not sure myself if this means the base tissue is there and it expands and more cell layers are added. Or if all cells are already there and they change shape. Probably, they do need to produce the pigments, because when I remove a flower bud early and open it up, it is all green. I am not a botanist and there are many resources out there about flower development that I have not read. But I am not a professional in botany/horticulture/bonsai.

So Warren proposes to prevent flowering by pruning in late summer/early august. I think this is an excellent suggestion. Even removing the flower buds in late autumn is kind of pointless. If you want to prevent the plant from spending carbohydrates on flower buds, you have to manipulate it so that it does not attempt to grow flower buds. Physically removing them as it is trying to grow them is not how you would save those carbohydrate resources.

But then Warren says that if you do not prevent flower bud formation by pruning early autumn, you should remove the flowers as the first flowers open. No sooner, no later. He says that if you do not remove them exactly at this moment, the hormones inside the plant get confused. And then I think he suggests or means that this will lead to less strong growth. Now, I cannot definitely say this is false. But it does sound very strange to me. Because it would mean that if you remove the flowers as they open, the plant does not get confused. But if you do so a week earlier or a week later, it does. Why would it get confused? In nature, flowers can be removed physically for many reasons. What does an azalea plant need to do to reproduce? It needs to set the buds. Then it needs to swell them and open them up as flowers. And then it needs to grow seed capsules with seeds inside if the flower is pollinated. Some species of flowers will try to grow aditional flowers when the flower gets removed. For example, the sunflower. So there, yes the plant gets 'confused'. Or to be more specific, removing the flower will result in the plant growing many tiny flowers. Which is not what you want. Azaleas don't do this. So what exactly is this 'confusion'? I would postulate that through millions of years of evolution, azaleas can deal fine with their flowers being physically removed. They know they only flower once a year. So when they get removed, they will just do their thing and try again next year. I don't see how it can be explained that when you remove them too early, or too late, the plant refuses to grow for a bit. It would mean that the succesfull opening of the first flower would trigger to the entire plant 'flowers are opened, mission accomplished' and that this produces a hormone that feeds back with some signaling pathway into the growth habit. That would explain the very specific timing. It might be true, but like I said before, this is the first time I ever heard about this hypothesis. And I know that the nursery industry has no problem growing an azalea plant from cutting into a flowering plant without letting the plant flower, at all.

And if this theory is true, you would want every flower on the plant to completely open, before removing it. And if true, I don't see how removing it later is also worse. The theory is based on a certain hormone only being produces when the flower opens, to signal to the rest of the plant 'flowering initialized, proceed to next step'. Since hormones are molecules that diffuse through tissues and not some electric signal on a nerve going to a central nervous system, you would need to remove every flower as it has opened. Under this theory, removing unopened flowers when the first flowers have opened would still mean that the hormone is not being produced by those specific unopened flowers. And besides, if you remove the flower completely, and not just the petals; it is gone. Tissue that is physically removed cannot produce hormones to signal the rest of the buds in that twig to start growing faster.

This is why I find his theory strange.

From my experience, flowers increase the water requirements of the entire plant. So if you repotted your plant and in the process removed part of the roots, I can see the advantage of removing the petals (and probably the stem and ovule because you obviously don't want it to spend carbohydrates producing seed). And it makes sense that the petals evaporate a lot of water since they are thin, have a large surface area and likely don't have the same water conserving mechanisms that normal leaves have, ie stomata closing, hairs, etc.

I also see a mild effect of flowers inhibiting growth. This is not complete, because obviously shoots grow from the base of the flowers. This is more obvious in satsuki than in kurume. From my experience, when removing flowers from kurume, they start to grow earlier than branches where you keep the flowers. This makes sense because kurume flower first, grow second. And if flowers produce hormones inhibiting growth, removing the flower physically would remove this inhibition. But on satsuki, this mechanism cannot be as strong as in kurume, because if that would be the case, the satsuki wouldn't grow until it has flowered in late may/early June.

Therefore, I back Warren's suggestion of pruning to prevent flower bud formation altogether. I back the notion of removing flower petals to reduce water requirements and give plants an easier time producing enough water, especially to plants that had their roots pruned. But I don't see why you need to wait until they open. And I back the notion that flowers inhibit growth in kurume and that removing the flowers will speed up the initiation of new buds growing, but only on that specific branch. And I propose this same mechanism is likely present in satsuki, but much much weaker as satsuki obviously grow shoots while flower buds are present. To a degree that it likely has no meaningful effect. I think whether satsuki pause or slow down the growth of these shoots as flowering starts is up to debate. I have seen no anecdotal or scholarly evidence for the notion that the first flower opening acts as some hormonal checkpoint that the plant has to reach to proceed to the next growing step unconfused, besides this Warren video. If there is evidence for it, I'd like to see it and I will be convinced. The fact that Warren styles amazing bonsai does not fit my criteria of evidence. I fully accept that you can do what Warren says and have an amazing bonsai that can win awards in Japan.

And if the plant 'suffers' when it cannot set seed, you would allow it to set seed up to the point the seed capsules split open and spread around the seed. This at the cost of carbohydrates but at the gain of a more favourable hormonal cycle. Warren says you should go through part of the cycle, not all of it. I think nature is perfectly able to prevent confusion in this cycle and realize the flowers were physically removed and respond accordingly.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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Hi,
Here is my take.
I have both Kurume and Satsuki. Both are totally different, obviously genetics etc.
My Kurume cultivars all grow non-stop eg. All season - great for ramification.
My Satsuki cultivars have 2 growth spurts only, with one pre-flowering and another post-flowering. Hmmm, so as I have found out that if you let Satsuki flower you get only 1 growth spurt, so only getting the chance to ramify once. I haven’t tested the theory that if you are clever enough to pinch the new growth, let it flower, and cut back/thin etc you will get more growth etc.
@Adair M - can you give us your opinion? Or am I on the right track here.
Charles
 

Harunobu

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If you want more ramification, you need to prune. It won't bud back from the shoots you get. It will just push them longer. From the base of a terminal bud/flower, you will get several new shoots. I have seen up to 9. And they will extend. The first ones, on satsuki, will start before flowering. And they will elongate and you can get several more during and after flowering. As an end result, depending on your climate and the vigor of the plant, you could get 5 shoots of 5 cm in length. And in September, each of them will set their own flower buds.

If you want the plant to strengthen as much as possible, you could for example allow this 'single flush of growth' and come in late august/early September and prune back to 2 shoots, two pair of leaves. You won't get flowering, but your plant will have had maximum photosynthetic surface for the entire growing season.

Now, if you want ramification with flowers on the terminal buds next year, you need to go in and prune. There, specific bonsai skill and climate comes in. The length of your new growth depends on when you prune. And for bonsai aesthetics, you want it a certain length and that length gets determined by when you prune. Let say it is late June. You come in and prune back all new shoots to 2 shoots with 2 leaves. Because the growing season is not over, it will keep growing. But it cannot extend these shoots because they were pruned. So it will grow from the now no longer dormant auxiliary buds. Maybe some in last year's growth, maybe some in the shoots that just grew. And this sets up the plant for showing.

Now it seems that in Japan they aggressively prune azalea to kind of redesign the entire bonsai every few years. I don't know how often. But they kind of reset the entire plant and go back to a trunk where the main branches kind of become a plateau for the new growth. I guess that if you do not do this, the branches will become too thick and everything will go out of proportion. So they do this very aggressive cut, a lot of it back into very old wood. Often pruning off the the main branches at the point that only leaves a single side-branch with a single leaf. I have never done this, as I am not a bonsai artist. So here, you would need to listen to Warren because I am sure he does have insights here.

I think all this has nothing to do with removing flowers. And I don't see how a flower that is removed can produce hormones to complete a hormonal flowering cycle.

I don't really see the two growth spurts in satsuki. Maybe you refer to it pushing out new buds later on in the growing season/ie backbudding? If you mean the growth slows down or stops when it flowers, maybe. The flowers flowering do seem to inhibit growth on kurume. And flowers that are physically there are able to produce hormones that inhibit vegetative buds. But I have never gone in and measured the shoots, often underneath a bed of flowers, just before and during flowering. It is hard to judge growth that is covered by flowers unless you go in and specifically measure it. So I concede that if it is there, I could not notice it.

I am also not in zone 9. I can see how you get two spurts of growth in zone 9. I don't have that here. I see the same shoots extend after flowering that started before flowering. And depending on the vigor and specific cultivar, I get some backbudding or dormant buds awakening. I don't get a second flush of growth coming out from the first flush, giving a second stage of ramification. If you do, all the more reason to prune to prevent getting spoke wheels of way too many and too long shoots.

If in zone 9, merely removing the flower will result in a second flush of growth leading to a second stage of ramification without any pruning, that would surprise me. None of my plants do this. Especially since you stress that this does not happen at all when you keep the flower on (and for how long, you don't mean until they either set pods or drop off because they weren't pollinated?). I really need more than just your word to be convinced that this actually happens to your azalea in NZ zone 9.

But I also don't think there is any harm in removing flowers. If the plant is over peak flower and you feel like removing them. Go ahead and remove them. I just don't believe it amounts to a special trick that gains you something you would not gain from removing them once they are all done or removing them before they open. That said, removing all flowers after the first few open, like Warren suggests, is also a different timing from the usual suggesting to remove all flowers when the first one of them have faded. I think all these options will give near-identical results. What actually matters is if, when, and how you prune.
 
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Mellow Mullet

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I suffered through the entire 1:19 minutes of this video and I have to agree with @Harunobu on this, the video is terrible. An hour or so of nothing but disjointed, distracted rambling, and thumbing through magazines; with no knowledge about satsukis or azaleas that you can't find anywhere else, presented in a more interesting manner. A lot of the stuff he said I found to be true, but nothing that I had to go to Japan to learn.

Removing the flowers in a window is a myth, they do not effect the growth of the plant. They will grow like weeds all summer, regardless of whether you remove the flowers or not. Leaving the seed pods on does not effect them either, other than they are are a little unsightly.

I do agree with him on the garden center varieties, I think he should have said the large Indica varieties; some of them do not lend themselves to bonsai culture. The growth is very coarse and upright.

I find that kurume azaleas are better than some satsukis, Their growth is much more compact.

There is a book called Azaleas, by Fred C. Galle, that is an excellent book on azaleas. Most of the books on satsuki bonsai that I have read are all the same "cookie-cutter" regurgitated stuff like the video.
 

Harunobu

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I get what you mean, Mellow Mullet, but I didn't really mind it being disorganized. It was an intro so it should cover the basics and likely not contain anything that will blow you away or you never knew. But, if he made this intro to try to sell parts 2 and onward, I agree that if I were him I would want it to be a lot more organized and scripted. This was kind of live-streaming stream of consciousness. If you want to put out a video about the basics or an intro of satsuki, you should make at least a script and maybe reshoot parts you weren't satisfied with on take 1.

As for the garden center varieties, he is from the UK, I think. Not Alabama. You won't find the southern indica azalea there. What you will find is a lot of Dutch/German/Belgium kurume-types, and some NA and Cox varieties as well. The type of kurume azalea that supply 25% of the genes of his favourite 'Hoshi no Kagayaki'. I agree that kurume can make very nice bonsai and that their generally smaller leaves and flowers can help. I have seen people claim that they don't fatten a trunk properly. But I don't know why that would be true. There is this strange notion that even Warren seems to hint at, that satsuki azalea were bred to be bonsai and that they where bred to make these fat trunks. And that therefore, kurume cannot do so. He even seems to suggest that the newer cultivar aren't able to grow fat trunks. But he seems to forget that some of these new cultivar are not that old. There are no 70 year old large-trunked 'Suisen' because 'Suisen' was only registered in 1975. And those people that are interested in the latest flower variations are the people interested in meika/S-shaped trunk flower display style of satsuki. Exactly that what Warren did explain. And people who are interested in bonsai and want to display their bonsai when not in flower, they prefered a long time ago to use Kozan/Nikko/Kinsai/Osakazuki. Those 'old cultivar' aren't necessarily 'stronger'. It is just that when ´Suisen' or 'Juko' came along, people didn't immediately plant a dozen of cuttings to be grown into huge trunks over a 30 year period. They wanted to display these flowers meika style. If you are into meika style trees, you aren't going to be growing a Kaho when you have brand new more flashy cultivar available. And those that wanted a fat trunk could get an old 'Nikko' instead. So yes, there is a group of cultivar used for classic bonsai, displayed out of flower. And there is a group of cultivar used to display flowers meika-style. But that's not because one group fattens up a trunk better 'because they were designed for bonsai' and the other cannot be used 'because they are too weak'. Old bonsai can only be old cultivar. And newer cultivar dominate meika style. What's the point of having the flashiest flowers in 2020 when you are a fat classic traditional bonsai displayed out of flower in 2060? It won't matter that much if you are a Gyoten, Juko, or Kisshoten if you are a fat trunked old bonsai in 2060. So over time, you will actually start seeing more and more of these more modern flower-oriented cultivar, that used to dominate meika style, as classic bonsai. Just because there are more old trees of that cultivar around that can become good traditional fat old bonsai.
 

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I suffered through the entire 1:19 minutes of this video and I have to agree with @Harunobu on this, the video is terrible. An hour or so of nothing but disjointed, distracted rambling, and thumbing through magazines; with no knowledge about satsukis or azaleas that you can't find anywhere else, presented in a more interesting manner. A lot of the stuff he said I found to be true, but nothing that I had to go to Japan to learn.

Removing the flowers in a window is a myth, they do not effect the growth of the plant. They will grow like weeds all summer, regardless of whether you remove the flowers or not. Leaving the seed pods on does not effect them either, other than they are are a little unsightly.

I do agree with him on the garden center varieties, I think he should have said the large Indica varieties; some of them do not lend themselves to bonsai culture. The growth is very coarse and upright.

I find that kurume azaleas are better than some satsukis, Their growth is much more compact.

There is a book called Azaleas, by Fred C. Galle, that is an excellent book on azaleas. Most of the books on satsuki bonsai that I have read are all the same "cookie-cutter" regurgitated stuff like the video.
Yeah, I had a whole thing written up for you and your holier than thou attitude.
Then I thought...Nah he's to arrogant, not worth getting into it. Rather put him in the ignore bin, and learn from down to earth people like Peter Warren.
 

shinmai

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Yeah, I had a whole thing written up for you and your holier than thou attitude.
Then I thought...Nah he's to arrogant, not worth getting into it. Rather put him in the ignore bin, and learn from down to earth people like Peter Warren.
Well, you’re wrong. Mellow Mullet knows of what he speaks. Maybe instead it’s ‘smarter and more experienced than thou’. He has a great collection of trees in an ideal growing climate, and has been generous in sharing what he’s learned. So get off your high horse.
 

fredman

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Well, you’re wrong. Mellow Mullet knows of what he speaks. Maybe instead it’s ‘smarter and more experienced than thou’. He has a great collection of trees in an ideal growing climate, and has been generous in sharing what he’s learned. So get off your high horse.
Yeah I know him and his trees from long ago. That's not the point about what this is about...is it?
I always had great respect for him, but in this instance his attitude was arrogant and uncalled for.
Also, he don't need you to defend him...so best you stay on your horse.
 
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Deep Sea Diver

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Gosh, that was a lot. I hesistate to weigh into this stormy thread, but what the hey!

I watched the entire video. I've watched Peter Warren's videos before. This one appeared to me to be more rambling and disorganized. He did bring if off in the end though.... pointing out key errors in husbandry and gave a sweeping introduction to the Satsuki.

However it appeared to me, at the sake of offending Peter Warren fans, (of which I am one) that he was doing exactly what he purported to do, which was to teach in "a stream of consciousness" style while trying to multitask. I think he's more knowledgeable and skilled then I'll ever likely be, however being an educator for many years of teens and all ages of adults, his style grated on me quite a bit.

So I tried to look beyond his style and grab the salient information I could about azaleas, for example, don't mess with the roots under the trunk, only the top and sides, prune roots and branches to keep new growth coming, use kanuma for media, and take off the blossoms/ovaries when 70% of the flowers are spent etc... with more to come. (The latter process being something I have been trying to do on one of my satsuki's for the past 4 days, but was put off by a torrential rainstorm that finally ended.) It wasn't pretty though.... and that's enough about the video....

....As far as all the talk about garden store varieties being unsatisfactory for bonsai, IMHO that's a strange assertion, bordering on pure rubbish. My local sells satsukis, kurumes etc and I'll bet that, given time each type could flourish as a bonsai in this area. In fact, I have four big Hino Crimsons (Kurume) in my back yard with trunks, tight internodes and small leaves that would make any bonsai enthusiast salivate.... and these all came from the local garden shop. (Strangely, my better half can't be convinced to give one of these up to my hobby!)

Cheers
DSD sends
 

Deep Sea Diver

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There is a book called Azaleas, by Fred C. Galle, that is an excellent book on azaleas. "Most of the books on satsuki bonsai that I have read are all the same "cookie-cutter" regurgitated stuff like the video."
[/QUOTE]

Hi All,

I agree with almost all of this post, except the above quote makes me want to comment. Perhaps the other books on satsuki you've read are cookie cutter, but there are a number of others I've read that aren't.

To name a couple on my shelf that I would recommend would be (I do have Fred C. Galles weighty, though, excellent classic too) that might be not cookie cutter would be:
  1. Bonsai Techniques for Satsuki, Naka, Ota & Rokkaku,
  2. secondly: Floral Treasures of Japan, Kennedy - Peter mentioned this book and its pretty good....
  3. and finally a dark horse of a satsuki book that I am in the process of rereading Japanese Satsuki Bonsai, Watanabe.
Another book Peter mentioned, A Brocade Pillow, by Ihei, I would not recommend, unless you were truly interested in a historical overview of all Azaleas of Old Japan and are a true died in the wool azalea geek.

A website I'd recommend is https://satsukibonsai.com/tutorial/ . The only issue is that its in Italian and you'll have to use Chrome to translate it. (I've got this just about finished editing it and perhaps it would be ok to post this in the reference material if its not already there with a link back to the source site @bonsainut?)

The biggest issue I've found is that any one of these books alone IMO are not comprehensive enough for me. But I'm only a couple years into this hobby and need more time to figure what that actually means?

Best to All,
DSD sends
 

fredman

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Gosh, that was a lot. I hesistate to weigh into this stormy thread, but what the hey!

I watched the entire video. I've watched Peter Warren's videos before. This one appeared to me to be more rambling and disorganized. He did bring if off in the end though.... pointing out key errors in husbandry and gave a sweeping introduction to the Satsuki.

However it appeared to me, at the sake of offending Peter Warren fans, (of which I am one) that he was doing exactly what he purported to do, which was to teach in "a stream of consciousness" style while trying to multitask. I think he's more knowledgeable and skilled then I'll ever likely be, however being an educator for many years of teens and all ages of adults, his style grated on me quite a bit.
Yeah I almost don't feel like commenting on my own thread anymore. I hate it when a good intended act is driven sideways unnecessary.
I agree with you about his approach, but I take it for what it is. The guy isn't out to compete or impress. He is what he is...He just honestly wants to share with bonsai enthusiasts while they're in lock down over there...and I appreciate that.
I shared it with the same intentions. It's about bonsai and there is info in there that might be valuable to some.
 

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Why do you feel that way about this topic, fredman?

BTW, this was my textbook in undergrad on genetics:
1591011410036.png

Especially the left center flower, does that remind anyone of something? Basically, all my classmates know (or should know) why satsuki azaleas sport. But some of them never heard of bonsai or don't know what an azalea or rhododendron is.
 

fredman

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Why do you feel that way about this topic, fredman?
Not sure I understand what you mean by 'that way' mate?

I just love azaleas...particularly satsuki.
I haven't been very successfull in growing them and they got neglected somewhat as a consequence.....there's a few reasons for that....all my fault ofcourse.
Long story short I suddenly got rejuvenated again mainly because I found some answers...yeah i'm a slow learner.
Needless to say i'm over exited about rejuvenating them again to.
That's why I created this thread...out of my own over excitement. I also love to share with others what i've learnt.
 

Mellow Mullet

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Yeah, I had a whole thing written up for you and your holier than thou attitude.
Then I thought...Nah he's to arrogant, not worth getting into it. Rather put him in the ignore bin, and learn from down to earth people like Peter Warren.

Whatever
 

Harunobu

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Not sure I understand what you mean by 'that way' mate?

I just love azaleas...particularly satsuki.
I haven't been very successfull in growing them and they got neglected somewhat as a consequence.....there's a few reasons for that....all my fault ofcourse.
Long story short I suddenly got rejuvenated again mainly because I found some answers...yeah i'm a slow learner.
Needless to say i'm over exited about rejuvenating them again to.
That's why I created this thread...out of my own over excitement. I also love to share with others what i've learnt.

People watched the video and discussed azalea. You rather want your post to have a few views and no replies?

As for discussing azaleas and saying what you have learned. Do your azalea actually put out two distinct flushes of growth, as if there are two distinct growing seasons/seasonal cycles, because you are in zone 9? One before flowering, and then a whole bunch of new buds from the first flush of growth after flowering? Or did I misundestand something? Because if you think they are doing this in your climate (even if you cannot provide pictuere evidence), that will mean I will remember that for next time talking to someone in a very temperate zone 9. And if several people give me this anecdotal evidence, I will have to adjust what I (think) I know.

As long as this doesn't become a discussion about what proper bonsai pedagogy is, or what proper Youtube video production means in 2020 (or making posts only telling someone you put them on ignore), I don't see what the problem is.
 

0soyoung

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On the hormonal side, biologically it is the apical meristem (the branch tip) that morphs into a flower bud. Once it has started this conversion it is permanent --> a flower bud NEVER reverts to being vegetative. So, a branch with a flower bud cannot continue extending growth, it must 'back bud' and, indeed this is what happens with all azaleas/rhododendrons = new growth comes from the axillary buds just below the flower bud, exactly as happens when the vegetative apical meristem is pruned away. Kinda suggests that flower buds and/or flowers don't produce (or export) auxin.

Another scientific factoid is that the cluster of 3 leaves around the branch tip are vital to the process of affecting the metamorphosis of the branch tip into a flower bud. So energy conservation maniacs could just remove this 3-leaf tip cluster to minimize 'wasting energy'. Ironically, I've seen recommendations to do the opposite with satsuki (remove all leaves but for the tip cluster in spring).
 

Harunobu

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Well, I liked the new video a lot better. Has a lot of hands on action. (And he didn't say anything I don't agree with.)
 

shinmai

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There is a book called Azaleas, by Fred C. Galle, that is an excellent book on azaleas. "Most of the books on satsuki bonsai that I have read are all the same "cookie-cutter" regurgitated stuff like the video."

Hi All,

I agree with almost all of this post, except the above quote makes me want to comment. Perhaps the other books on satsuki you've read are cookie cutter, but there are a number of others I've read that aren't.

To name a couple on my shelf that I would recommend would be (I do have Fred C. Galles weighty, though, excellent classic too) that might be not cookie cutter would be:
  1. Bonsai Techniques for Satsuki, Naka, Ota & Rokkaku,
  2. secondly: Floral Treasures of Japan, Kennedy - Peter mentioned this book and its pretty good....
  3. and finally a dark horse of a satsuki book that I am in the process of rereading Japanese Satsuki Bonsai, Watanabe.
Another book Peter mentioned, A Brocade Pillow, by Ihei, I would not recommend, unless you were truly interested in a historical overview of all Azaleas of Old Japan and are a true died in the wool azalea geek.

A website I'd recommend is https://satsukibonsai.com/tutorial/ . The only issue is that its in Italian and you'll have to use Chrome to translate it. (I've got this just about finished editing it and perhaps it would be ok to post this in the reference material if its not already there with a link back to the source site @bonsainut?)

The biggest issue I've found is that any one of these books alone IMO are not comprehensive enough for me. But I'm only a couple years into this hobby and need more time to figure what that actually means?

Best to All,
DSD sends
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Well said. I would also note Callaham’s book on Satsuki. From a technical/horticultural perspective, it’s probably the seminal Satsuki resource.
Creech’s commentary and intro to the ‘Brocade Pillow’ translation are the worthwhile part of the book. It’s especially helpful in understanding the habitat antecedents and where the original ‘parents’ grew.
 

Harunobu

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dr.ir. Jozef Heursel wrote a book on azalea as well. He was the European azalea specialist and scientist. But I am not sure if there is a translation into English. Probably not useful to bonsai people. But that wasn't the point.
And there are also Chinese books. I have a very large one that was sent to me as a gift. But I can't read any of it. Let's not forget that most evergreen azalea species originate in China, with many not properly described yet. They could have the same or more ornamental value than the Japanese species, if cultivated and bred for the same number of generations.
 
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