Pieris japonica???

Nickagainst1

Yamadori
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Ok so this was a mystery nursery grab. Didn't know what it was but I thought it looked like a bonsai minus a pot. It was seemingly over watered, I've kept in partial shade and controlled the water. It looks pretty good but provided it survives the winter what style of pot would suit this best? I am partial to stylistic pots. I really like sorce's work and am ogling pots on his site daily. Soon I will make purchase. Anytahoo thanks for any advice on species and how well they do as bonsai.

My thoughts were that it had cool bark and a natural windswept look, just needed a dramatic pot. But it also needs to live so that's what I'm focusing on while pot is in back 20210907_031458.jpgof mind, (whilst keeping 20210907_032233.jpgin mind seasons and pot availability)20210907_031526.jpg
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Pieris is a genus loosely related to blueberry. They like and need acidic soils. Generally, pot them as you would Satsuki Azalea.

For blueberries I use a 50:50 blend of fir bark and Canadian peat that has been sieved to remove fines. You want chunky peat. Some brands of peat are milled to a fine flour, you don't want those.

To this 50:50 blend I add a handful, about 3% to 5% hardwood sawdust to feed the mycorrhiza that associate with blueberry. I assume Pieris will use similar mycorrhiza. This is the base organic part of your mix. Add as much pumice or lava as you need to suit your watering frequency. More pumice, the more frequently you will have to water. My blueberry potting mix works well enough with 225 ppm as calcium carbonate municipal water.

I found that Kanuma in conjunction with my 225ppm water, is not acidic enough or does not have enough cation exchange capacity for blueberries to be happy. You can try straight Kanuma for Pieris, it may work well especially if your municipal water is softer than my water. I believe in Japan they treat Pieris much like Satsuki azalea the way they pot them.
 

Nickagainst1

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Wow thank you for thorough and informative reply. You all are the best. I will take this all into consideration and hopefully this tree will kick butt.
 
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Pieris is a genus loosely related to blueberry. They like and need acidic soils. Generally, pot them as you would Satsuki Azalea.

For blueberries I use a 50:50 blend of fir bark and Canadian peat that has been sieved to remove fines. You want chunky peat. Some brands of peat are milled to a fine flour, you don't want those.

To this 50:50 blend I add a handful, about 3% to 5% hardwood sawdust to feed the mycorrhiza that associate with blueberry. I assume Pieris will use similar mycorrhiza. This is the base organic part of your mix. Add as much pumice or lava as you need to suit your watering frequency. More pumice, the more frequently you will have to water. My blueberry potting mix works well enough with 225 ppm as calcium carbonate municipal water.

I found that Kanuma in conjunction with my 225ppm water, is not acidic enough or does not have enough cation exchange capacity for blueberries to be happy. You can try straight Kanuma for Pieris, it may work well especially if your municipal water is softer than my water. I believe in Japan they treat Pieris much like Satsuki azalea the way they pot them.
If the plant will stay in its nursery soil throughout the winter, will it fare at this point in season with normal watering?
 

Calnicky

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I had to move two landscape planting Pieris japonicas recently, to make way for a shop foundation. So what the heck, they are now in Anderson flats and in training. They are hardy AF, survive the occasional lack of water, and the deer don't eat them. They look like they have tons of potential. Mine are both clump style so far, but that will probably change once I've had a chance to really stare at them. I think mine are in mostly pumice and potting soil currently, but maybe I should throw some kanuma on top. I think they are a great, hardy addition to the bonsai canon.
 
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I had to move two landscape planting Pieris japonicas recently, to make way for a shop foundation. So what the heck, they are now in Anderson flats and in training. They are hardy AF, survive the occasional lack of water, and the deer don't eat them. They look like they have tons of potential. Mine are both clump style so far, but that will probably change once I've had a chance to really stare at them. I think mine are in mostly pumice and potting soil currently, but maybe I should throw some kanuma on top. I think they are a great, hardy addition to the bonsai canon.
Yeah, today was the day my tunnel vision broke...yours sound great. I've been stuck in conifer mindset and it's nice to have something different on the bench. Good luck! Where are you located around? I'm in maryland, not sure if repot now is bad idea...
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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September repotting in Maryland, zone 7a is likely a bad idea. Wait for late winter, or early spring. Nursery potting mix that it is in will be fine over winter. Definitely use an acidic mix as described above. Maryland most locals tend to have moderate to hard municipal water.

In Pacific Northwest, zone 8a, your weather is mild enough you hardly ever freeze. You might want to consult your local bonsai "authorities", as I have never grown anything there, I have only visited the area a couple times more than 20 years ago. But you have low dissolved solids water (soft water) in many areas, (except some well water) and your mild climate. This lets you get away with using a wider range of potting media, it does not have to be as acidic, because your water has less calcium, and you can repot at a wider range of times of year because your winters are mild. If you are near BSOP, (bonsai society of Portland) or one of the Seattle bonsai societies, you might get better advice for you location.
 
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I'll be living in Maryland for the next few years, but have spoken with the owner of Nature's Way and he said basically just protect from frost. I'm trying to decipher that concept. I have a walkout basement where they'd be lower and could even be covered by the deck, but do light requirements matter as much in winter or is it just the temp drop that triggers dormancy?

Thanks! Hope all is well in IL!

CHRIS
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Evergreen trees, broadleaf or conifers, can be stored without light when temperatures are below 40 F or 4 C. Roughly. As an approximation, around 40 F (4 C ) metabolism for most plants is slow enough that the vast majority coast with very little sugar consumption, very little transpiration, and very slow metabolism at this temperature. There are exceptions, but they are few and far between. If you chill your trees between 33 F and 40 F, no light is needed.

So put your trees under the porch after the first frosts, and bring them out once the weather thaws. You should do the "in and out dance" to avoid late season freezes once you bring them out. Pieris foliage will survive a fair amount of freezing, zone 7 hardy or colder if I remember from when I had one. I don't know their limits anymore, forgot, its been a while. I know they won't take a Chicago winter.
 
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