PIGLET CHAPTER 2

[cmeg1]

Wow what a process! I said it before and I’ll say it again.It is nice to see it get the work like rootgrafts and such.Thanks for the detail photos.

 

[GroveBonsai]

I was just wondering how Piglet was doing. Nice to see it doing well!

 

[JudyB]

Root grafts are going to make this tree untouchable. It is already quite a beast, but moving it up like that will add so much to the image. This tree has quite a story ahead...
Thanks for sharing.

 

[Ohmy222]

Truly awesome. So glad it isn’t just another pine tree shape trident. I want you to teach me wiring so bad. Also, is the wire insulated copper?

 

[MACH5]

Root grafts are going to make this tree untouchable. It is already quite a beast, but moving it up like that will add so much to the image. This tree has quite a story ahead...
Thanks for sharing.

Judy there will be another round of root grafts at the back. Not sure that I'll be able to get to that next spring but for sure within the next couple of years I'd like to address some areas at the back. A few more at the front and sides would not be a bad idea either. An absolute beast! Owen had a couple for sale at the winter silhouette that reminded me of this tree but in much more manageable sizes.

 

[MACH5]

Truly awesome. So glad it isn’t just another pine tree shape trident. I want you to teach me wiring so bad. Also, is the wire insulated copper?

Thanks @Ohmy222. Indeed many tridents suffer from this "ailment". Trees with hard, short and highly structured branches that taper to a single pointed top. I loved this tree from the moment Judy posted it on this forum. Loved its massive trunk with its flaring base supporting a future large billowy broom-like canopy. I think a very natural and common deciduous tree form.

The wire is copper wrapped in floral tape. Used to protect the bark whenever I do heavy bendings.

 

[small trees]

I have some of the pins that you used when doing these root grafts. I have a couple trees that need similar grafts this spring. I don't have any experience with grafting so I've selected trees that I'm not too attached to and I've also practiced on a few branches I removed when pruning. I have a heck of a time getting those pins in far enough that I feel confident the seedling won't push it out without bending them. Do you just press them in by hand or do you use a small hammer? And do you press the pin in right next to the channel, or do you try to put it in the channel with the seedling being grafted? Tree looked amazing before and it is going to be even better in two to three years.

 

[Atom#28]

There could not be a more perfect name for this tubby little fella! Thank you for sharing this with us, Judy and Mach5.

 

[MACH5]

I have some of the pins that you used when doing these root grafts. I have a couple trees that need similar grafts this spring. I don't have any experience with grafting so I've selected trees that I'm not too attached to and I've also practiced on a few branches I removed when pruning. I have a heck of a time getting those pins in far enough that I feel confident the seedling won't push it out without bending them. Do you just press them in by hand or do you use a small hammer? And do you press the pin in right next to the channel, or do you try to put it in the channel with the seedling being grafted? Tree looked amazing before and it is going to be even better in two to three years.

I use a small hammer to drive them in into the wood. Never drive them through the seedling as this will cause unnecessary damage. Always into the mother trunk, next to the channel or groove. When using regular pushpins care must be taken using a hammer as they easily brake. I usually just try and press them by hand.

Here is a link I posted a while ago on how to do root grafts using the approach graft method. Hope this helps.

Root graft on a maple

I have a maple (many of you are familiar with it) that I am slowly adding root grafts in an effort to improve its nebari. I decided to chronicle as best as I could my process for completing one. There are a couple of ways to do root grafts. One is by thread grafting and the other by way of...

www.bonsainut.com

 

[jquast]

I noticed that you used coated copper wire. Is there a particular reason for the coated wire other than a stronger hold once bent into place?

 

[coh]

Sergio, that tree is looking great! So glad we get to see the continued progression.

I noticed that you used coated copper wire. Is there a particular reason for the coated wire other than a stronger hold once bent into place?

He noted earlier it's not coated wire, but wire that is wrapped in floral tape to protect the bark.

 

[SilenceDogwood]

Sergio,

How do you address the design challenges of this tree? It clearly doesn't represent a trident maple in its natural form, nor the typical form of a deciduous bonsai. However as I think we'd both agree, it's a very compelling trunk. Do you still design the branching to look like a trident even though the trunk does not? Do you make it look like an old oak even though it's a trident? I'm glad you agree that the pine-styling of tridents is overrated, too many of those we've seen.

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

 

[MACH5]

Sergio,

How do you address the design challenges of this tree? It clearly doesn't represent a trident maple in its natural form, nor the typical form of a deciduous bonsai. However as I think we'd both agree, it's a very compelling trunk. Do you still design the branching to look like a trident even though the trunk does not? Do you make it look like an old oak even though it's a trident? I'm glad you agree that the pine-styling of tridents is overrated, too many of those we've seen.

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

Good question. In this case, I aim at something that resembles a powerful old oak. Not really concerned here if it looks like a trident in the wild. My aim is to capture a deciduous form in nature regardless of species. For it to be convincing, the powerful trunk needs a rather large canopy that approaches something of a broom form. This will take several years to attain.

 

[SilenceDogwood]

Good question. In this case, I aim at something that resembles a powerful old oak. Not really concerned here if it looks like a trident in the wild. My aim is to capture a deciduous form in nature regardless of species. For it to be convincing, the powerful trunk needs a rather large canopy that approaches something of a broom form. This will take several years to attain.

Sir, thank you kindly for the response! When you say your "aim is to capture a deciduous form in nature regardless of species", is this an approach you apply towards all of your bonsai? Or just in this scenario?

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

 

[MACH5]

Sir, thank you kindly for the response! When you say your "aim is to capture a deciduous form in nature regardless of species", is this an approach you apply towards all of your bonsai? Or just in this scenario?

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

I would say that for most of my work I don't really get too concerned with designing my bonsai to represent its own species in nature. For example, my Japanese maple 'Sharp's pygmy' was modeled after an acer saccharinum (silver maple). The main thing is to capture a deciduous form that looks natural.

 

[SilenceDogwood]

I would say that for most of my work I don't really get too concerned with designing my bonsai to represent its own species in nature. For example, my Japanese maple 'Sharp's pygmy' was modeled after an acer saccharinum (silver maple). The main thing is to capture a deciduous form that looks natural.

Fascinating sir, thank you for the enlightenment of your approach! Natural within the parameters of deciduous but not necessarily within the species. I notice from your website and posts on here that you mostly work with already established trunks and contribute the branching/fine ramification rather than grow from very young material. Do you think if you were growing from cutting, seed or air-layer, you would have the same approach? For example if you were growing a trident maple from seed, would you grow it to look like a "powerful old oak" like you intend to make Piglet appear, or would you go a different way?

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

 

[MACH5]

Fascinating sir, thank you for the enlightenment of your approach! Natural within the parameters of deciduous but not necessarily within the species. I notice from your website and posts on here that you mostly work with already established trunks and contribute the branching/fine ramification rather than grow from very young material. Do you think if you were growing from cutting, seed or air-layer, you would have the same approach? For example if you were growing a trident maple from seed, would you grow it to look like a "powerful old oak" like you intend to make Piglet appear, or would you go a different way?

Your humble servant,
S. Dogwood

Yes, I believe the approach would still be the same. If I was starting from seed, I would probably grow a variety of "styles". From thin, tall and more elegant trees to heavier and more stout ones. I like variety and the creative challenges each form presents.

 

[Paulpash]

Yes, I believe the approach would still be the same. If I was starting from seed, I would probably grow a variety of "styles". From thin, tall and more elegant trees to heavier and more stout ones. I like variety and the creative challenges each form presents.

Speaking as someone that grows all my own stuff, it gives you great freedom - you build a trunk that is pleasing to you and ones that might add interest to your collection. For example, over the years I've had very few rafts and clump style trees so I have several on the go now. If you start fairly young you eventually end up with a conveyor belt system where you have new material maturing and being harvested every year or two. It gives you a much greater insight into key areas of bonsai such as thickening and healing rates and its relationship to foliage mass, use of sacrifices, backbudding potential, how to do an effective chop etc.

Serge and Brian have piqued my interest in several species I've not grown before like Tilia, Sharp's pygmy, Chinese Quince and Japanese Beech. I'm in my 30th year now of growing stuff so my selection of even raw material is far more picky.

 

[Don Blackmond]

Looked like this in 2009.

 

[MACH5]

Looked like this in 2009.
View attachment 277726

Thanks Don! Have not seen you around these parts in a while! What ten years can do!!