Pine pest - shoot tip moth

Graydon

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OK, now I am like totally paranoid with reason. If it's not the wasps chewing needles in half it apparently will be the shoot tip moth.

I stopped out at a local nursery to check on some JBP that the owner started and I noticed may had brown buds. Hmmmmm. I popped one off and in the process apparently squished the larvae inside the bud in the process. Holy you know what.

I drove home thinking about some symptoms I have seen as I was watching my pines for wasps. Some shoots were beginning to turn an odd color. When I got home my fears were correct. Nice assortment of brown shoots. Every one I have removed so far has a larvae inside.

What to do? I looked in Steve Pilacik's book and his only suggestion was moth balls around the pot. Huh? I have a lot of pines. That is not going to work. What is there on the market that works either as a strait out pesticide that will kill these things or better yet what can prevent an infestation?

I'm sick to my stomach now. Everywhere I look I have them. As always the help and advice is appreciated.

Photos of effected buds and the killing process...
 

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darrellw

Mame
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Hi Graydon,

Bummer! I did a quick search and found this page:

http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/fidls/nantucket/nantucket.htm

Which says:

Control
More than 30 known species of parasites attack the Nantucket pine tip moth. Several predatory insects and birds also attack this pest. Low winter temperature in the northern part of the range can kill overwintering pupae.

A parasitic wasp, Campoplex frustranae (Cushman), has been successfully introduced from Georgia to the infested area of southern California and has greatly reduced the damage suffered by Monterey pine at some locations.

Because of the high cost, the benefit/cost ratio is small for large-scale treatments. Control by insecticides is usually not recommended except in seed orchards, nurseries, Christmas tree plantations, or on ornamentals.

Several insecticides are registered for tip moth control: azinphosmethyl, dimethoate, disulfoton, and trichlorphon. Some are applied to pine foliage and others, which are systemic insecticides, are applied to the soil.

If foliar sprays are used and season-long control is desired, spraying may be necessary for each generation. The spray should be directed at young larvae, which feed on the exterior of the shoot for several days. Eggs hatch 5 to 10 days after the peak of adult emergence. When cool weather follows peak adult emergence in early spring, spraying should be deferred for about 14 days. When systemics are used, they should be applied in late winter or early spring.

Certain cultural practices may be used to minimize damage done by this insect. Highly susceptible species of pine should be planted only on sites to which they are well adapted. On poor sites, species of pine resistant to Nantucket pine tip moth should be substituted if possible. Such practices as close spacing and planting under an overstory may help reduce moth populations and subsequent injury to trees.

In California, quarantine regulations forbid the shipment of pine nursery stock out of infested areas.

I hope that helps!

-Darrell
 

rlist

Shohin
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Look up Bayer Advanced products http://www.bayeradvanced.com/, as they have a wide range of products that can kill a whole bunch of things. I have used a variety of their products and had success with all of them (their rose 3 in 1 is what the Portland Rose Society recommends, and I have never used a better product). A quick search shows multiple products to kill a variety of shoot-tip moths, so you have the option of a spray or water-in systemic. I have never used the water-in on my bonsai, but Joanie at BT uses an all in one and has had great success.

I wouldn't sweat it too much at this point... Good luck!
 

Graydon

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Thanks Darrell. I had not found that page yet. My favorite part?

"In severe and prolonged infestations, trees less than 3 feet (0.9 m) tall may be killed by larvae, but usually the loss or retardation of height growth and deformation of the main stem cause the greatest economic losses."

Let me check on how many pines I have over 3 feet. Um... none. Crap.

I wonder if the wasp I was accusing for the damage was actually trying to get to some of these larvae? More research for a photo of said wasp.



Thanks for the heads up on the Bayer products! I use a systemic on my azaleas and it is great so I will look and see what they offer.
 

darrellw

Mame
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Thanks Darrell. I had not found that page yet. My favorite part?

"In severe and prolonged infestations, trees less than 3 feet (0.9 m) tall may be killed by larvae, but usually the loss or retardation of height growth and deformation of the main stem cause the greatest economic losses."
I missed reading that part, but the "retardation of height growth and deformation of the main stem" could actually be an advantage :).

-Darrell
 

Graydon

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I missed reading that part, but the "retardation of height growth and deformation of the main stem" could actually be an advantage :).

-Darrell
Yeah, double edged sword huh?
 

Graydon

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Look up Bayer Advanced products http://www.bayeradvanced.com/, as they have a wide range of products that can kill a whole bunch of things. I have used a variety of their products and had success with all of them (their rose 3 in 1 is what the Portland Rose Society recommends, and I have never used a better product). A quick search shows multiple products to kill a variety of shoot-tip moths, so you have the option of a spray or water-in systemic. I have never used the water-in on my bonsai, but Joanie at BT uses an all in one and has had great success.

I wouldn't sweat it too much at this point... Good luck!
Thanks dude. A quick print out from the Bayer site and a trip to Lowes leaves me feeling much better. I got home in time to give them a dose of one of the Bayer insecticides via hose end sprayer. I also have the systemic all in one for application soon.

The response was a help. Just had one of those days earlier and then I spotted this when I got home.
 
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