Tieball
Masterpiece
Ahhhhh....Cedars of Lebanon. Right? I just didn't seem to make the connection. Beautiful trees....and country.
Pine shedding needles.
- Thread starter maroun.c
- Start date
maroun.c
Omono
Yes exactly.
Thanks.
Got one as well that's looking better than the pine. Will also need soil change and work on few aerial roots which looks easy compared to the pine and on style as well.
maroun.c
Omono
Have considered the tapper and am also afraid of loosing most of the branches as those are very thick roots so presume they're feeding many branches. Am also afraid of loosing the Tree as those are hard to source her so might just let the roots be and try to work a bit on the style when healthy. Here's a level picture
That horizontal root is the worse I believe I'll try to place it under soil on next repot.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Would suggest as well getting tree healthy as first priority. Just before growth start in late Winter is time to repot in better medium. Also when repotting if practical untangle crossing front root so does not cross under other root. If wishing to grow bigger trunk please put in much bigger container. Unless money burning hole in your pocket no need to use Bonsai display pot until tree is developed for showing off. Use nursery pot, wood box or bulb pot for growing until then. Hope your tree survives
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.maroun.c
Omono
Sure, Getting it healthy is my first concern. Do u think it helps to give a bit of fertilizer still (winter starting here) Will try to untangle roots while repotting in Feb.Would suggest as well getting tree healthy as first priority. Just before growth start in late Winter is time to repot in better medium. Also when repotting if practical untangle crossing front root so does not cross under other root. If wishing to grow bigger trunk please put in much bigger container. Unless money burning hole in your pocket no need to use Bonsai display pot until tree is developed for showing off. Use nursery pot, wood box or bulb pot for growing until then. Hope your tree survives
This is the pot it came in few months back. Will source a nice larger pot to place in for coming repot and return to this pot in 2-3 yrs at next reply hopefully it'll have thickened a bit by then. Although trunk is hot that thin.
Thanks
dirk hoorelbeke
Omono
I would suggest not to fertilize until one month after repotting. I don't know if the trunk is too thin or the foliage is to much but with a final styling in the back of your head it is easier to cut back some foliage (after tree is happy) to bring everything in proportion. With keeping the aerial roots in mind i would go for a slender tree with the left branch becoming the tree. The right section is to straight (when there is movement we don't see in this picture it might be the better option). Just proceeding with the lowest branch is an option, but it will highlight the rootbase and i don't know if that is the best option.
Tieball
Masterpiece
I have to agree...the horizontal root is a nuisance that needs to be hidden....such as buried a little deeper and out of sight....or eliminated. I like the exposed roots though. It's.....not like every other tree. I like the individuality and lightness the roots express. I wanted to see what image the tree gave without that root.....take a look at the attached edited photo. I think you have a terrific tree just waiting to be discovered. Mighty fine indeed!
I'm not sure of a better pot color. I would tend to look at a textured darker gray that compliments the deeper tones of the bark. But....if you have that blue pot and it works for you right now.....I'd concentrate on the health of the tree and not worry that much about pots right away. That's just my thinking. After you've had the tree awhile.....and it's healthy....a color of pot you see may hit the mark perfectly....then it's time to get a pot.
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Tieball
Masterpiece
Good advice!Would suggest as well getting tree healthy as first priority. Just before growth start in late Winter is time to repot in better medium. Also when repotting if practical untangle crossing front root so does not cross under other root. If wishing to grow bigger trunk please put in much bigger container. Unless money burning hole in your pocket no need to use Bonsai display pot until tree is developed for showing off. Use nursery pot, wood box or bulb pot for growing until then. Hope your tree survives
Sorry for delay, couldn't find the picture. Here's one brevifolia I acquired in the summer, the picture is from eshop, styled by eshop owner (BTW our association president). It was repotted right after delivery, I hope it'll be OK in spring.
the1only
Yamadori
How old is that Cedars of Lebanon? I currently have 2, pencil size trunk. I love that tree regardless being bonsai or not.
maroun.c
Omono
It's the pot it came in... Will work on a nicer one for next repot. it's rather greenish but looks more blue in the pic.
Was thinking maybe a dark brown but grey as suggested would look nice. I'll shoot for a non glazed one. Any other suggestions on color?
This also leaves me with one empty green blue pot, any trees that would look in that?
maroun.c
Omono
Indeed looks better with that root removed. I'm guessing taking it out would work better than trying to hide it. Should I just cut or tightly tie before to encourage roots grow to take over when it's cut?
As for Tree being good there was a lot of controversy about that when I posted it pics when I first got it... Regardless these are not very common here so I like it.
I'm just hoping it will improve.
Thanks.
maroun.c
Omono
That's a nice tree you got there.
maroun.c
Omono
Will check the tag when home but its either 30 or 35 yrs. It is a Bonsai, not the greatest as the nicer ones were outrageously expensive. Planning on a nice cedar and pine once I'm better at choosing and keeping them healthy, or possibly training one myself.
maroun.c
Omono
Will look for one although choices are limited here, it's mostly Chinese cheap pots.
Tieball
Masterpiece
I don't feel comfortable answering the root cutting question with specific advice. I think there are bonsai nut members better experienced to answer that question...if you don't hear a reply, do a lot of research using Google for websites where the authors talk about pine root pruning. There is likely a lot of discussion on the topic...to understand what can be cut easily without damaging the tree. And perhaps especially "when" the right time is to cut roots. I think Spring as the candles begin swelling but my trees would coming out of a long dormancy. You climate is different.
I "think" you're just fine cutting that root once you know the tree is returned to health, growing and producing nice candle growth. Probable timing.....when you're ready to change growing containers. I would not cut the root off until the tree is established and growing healthy. There's no hurry really. I made root cutting mistakes early on...thinking that I needed to get everything done now...right away. Killed trees. I should have focused on tree health for at least 2-3 seasons before addressing root cutting. Deciduous is different though....Pine is a bit more temperamental about roots.
I do agree with your assessment though.....taking it out would be better than trying to hide it.
I also agree with the philosophy...if you like it - that's what counts the most. Enjoy the tree. In the long term it may end up fabulous....and it's yours. I think it has a lot of potential.
dirk hoorelbeke
Omono
It is a big and dominant root. A lot of the foliage depends on it. First return the tree to happiness. You can cut it off after that. It might be you get some shari on the wrong place. An other solution is to pull the root out of the medium once the tree is growing fine. You can pull one part of the root at the time so the tree is forced to depend on the other roots. For this you need more time (a year) and you have to prepare the rootball so you know where the roots are and how you will work. Your choice depends on how much risk you want to take.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
I'd be tempted to find a nice dark rock to fit in and around those exposed roots, or continue to lower the soil level over time and accentuate the exposed roots as a feature.
