Pinus Sylvestris Nursery Stock

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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I think the most important thing to consider is your race with the roots.

The knots that are the result of fully container grown material, grow in such ways that the "core" becomes so full of twisted root, it not only becomes impossible to nicely display, but the useless wood takes up so much space, there isn't enough room for a good Matt of feeders that you need for future building, even in an oversized pot.

For me, vigor causes more problems below. Than it provides usefulness on top.

If you Practice PPB, or keeping potential problems at bay, there is a question,
How long before either one of those 2 trunks ruins the others design?
The answer, like 4-6 years, is exactly what makes me like this material so much. It is allowing you time to think.

Besides some crafty guy wiring to keep interior portions of your future tree lit, and maybe some light safe trimming to keep the interior and lower stuff stimulated, I don't think you are pressed to make any huge decisions.

That's the primest material!

With nothing ruining anythings design, I jump right to, use that full strength to get it "small potted". Probly a colander. Not necessarily to reduce vigor, but because the ultimate goal is to get it in a bonsai pot. And straight away, especially in this instance, is best.

If it was Balled and burlapped, you damn near need to bareroot em to get the clay out. Another good "use the vigor to pot first" scenario.

It's easy to get 5 or 6 years into building something that dies when you Repot it. That sucks.

Sorce
 
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I see where you're coming from. So maybe after the growth hardens off, I'll just focus on pruning a few of the "worst" whorls on the main trunk that I plan to keep. Then like you said, use a few wires to get a few structural branches down into place. Next year, repot. Then, once recovered, begin with heavier design decisions. It does sound safer. Again, thanks for taking the time, I appreciate your insight.
 
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