Plain old red maple

[remist17]

I have two red maples that I have been growing from seed for several years. The trunks are about 1” diameter and they both have some interesting twist to them. I would like to start trying to reduce the leaf size. I find a lot of information on the Japanese maples, but limited information on red maples.

When is a good time to defoliate the tree? I am assuming partial defoliation is ok.
When is a good time to root prune? I see a lot doing this during the spring bud break.

Thanks for your time.

 

[MACH5]

I would recommend not to ever defoliate red leaved varieties. They tend to be weaker than the green types. Doing this could set your tree back significantly.

In general, the best time to defoliate is when the leaves have hardened off. Usually around late May/early June in the northern hemisphere. Best time to root prune is right as buds start to swell in late Winter/very early Spring.

I would only be concerned with leaf reduction when you have a fairly finished tree. Leaf number and size are needed for good development.

 

[Dan W.]

I would start with treating it the same as any other maple. Here are links to a very nice red maple grown by Anne Spencer.

http://crataegus.com/2011/10/31/leafless-red-maple/

http://crataegus.com/2011/10/18/red-maple-in-fall-color/

 

[jk_lewis]

I ASSUME you are asking about the American red maple (Acer rubrum). The answers you've gotten so far deal with the Japanese maple.

Or maybe I am the one who is not understanding.

That's why scientific (Latin) names are so important. There is little chance of a misunderstanding.

Anyway, assuming good health, the American tree can be defoliated once or twice in the summer after the leaves harden. Total defoliation is fine.

Root prune in spring when you repot.

A difficult tree for bonsai.

 

[MACH5]

We shall soon know when remist17 replies but I believe it is my bad assumption. Re-reading his post again I think you're right jkl, he is probably referring to Acer Rubrum. In which case I have nothing to add since I have no experience here whatsoever.

 

[Dan W.]

I ASSUME you are asking about the American red maple (Acer rubrum). The answers you've gotten so far deal with the Japanese maple. QUOTE]

If you follow my links, they lead to an American Red Maple. (Acer Rubrum)

 

[marcosolo]

We shall soon know when remist17 replies but I believe it is my bad assumption. Re-reading his post again I think you're right jkl, he is probably referring to Acer Rubrum. In which case I have nothing to add since I have no experience here whatsoever.

Acer rubrum takes kindly to mid summer defoliation, may or may not bud at both petioles, reduces barely, and is a PAIN IN MY ASS.....In the southern states they grow vigorously and are notorious for creating reverse taper in a matter of WEEKS if unchecked..Maybe more mild climates with less of a potent growing season would have better luck with these guys, but as for me, internodal space is so great that you have to chop back to one ATLEAST two times in a season, and DON'T FERTILIZE HEAVILY or you're just asking for reverse taper....

 

[jk_lewis]

marcosolo is right in most cases, but there is a variety in North Florida - South Georgia (and Alabama????) -- var. trilobum -- that has much smaller leaves and better potential for ramification. Mind you, it's still not easy.

I no longer have either of these trees, but here is var. trilobum:

 

[marcosolo]

marcosolo is right in most cases, but there is a variety in North Florida - South Georgia (and Alabama????) -- var. trilobum -- that has much smaller leaves and better potential for ramification. Mind you, it's still not easy.

I no longer have either of these trees, but here is var. trilobum:

I have heard about "better" results with said variety but ,all in all, the species is for someone who has only a few trees...Constant vigilance is necessary for development, and once you have something that is in the refinement stage you basically have to try and kill it to keep it from reverting back to ridiculousness...I knew someone personally who had some nice specimens and he told me, from personal experience, that learning the line between almost killing this species and killing this species is exactly where you want to keep it. Which, to me, who likes a little more room for error, is a little much....Food for thought, and kudos to those who love working with native species..I am in favor of plenty of natives, but not this...IT'S MADNESS!!!!!!!!!

Positive things about these trees though is, great overwatering tolerance, you CAN'T kill them without an aggressive regiment of gasoline and fire, and fall colors are spectacular....I haven't seen really any larger specimens(over 50 cm), and that might be the perfect position in Bonsai for this species.....

My take on it....

 

[remist17]

Sorry I really did not know what the latin term for the red maple was. But yes the trees I am asking about is Acer rubrum. I have a few that I grew from seeds. I am happy with the trunk development and would like to start refining the branches and reducing the size of the leaves. I had one in the ground that I reduced to leaves the size of a half dollar. This one was just a learning tree, but the ones in pots now I would hate to kill.

 

[evmibo]

I have one, it's far from me caring about leaf size (I'm still developing the trunk). But, if you're at the stage of defoliation try not to fertilize it for about 4-6 weeks after defoliation (with a good fertilization regimen before). Kind of like candling a black pine... Then slowly get back into your fertilizing schedule (depending on how many times you'll be defoliating).

I'm still learning a lot about the species, I love maples and it still breaks my heart that my climate is just too hot for A. palmatum and A. buergeranum.