please help. fungus is among us!!

[benw3790]

I have three collected american hornbeams. They are very young and are in big 7 gallon pots to grow freely for a few years. One of them is actually pretty nicley structured and planted in a bonsai pot with boons mix. its in the ramification stage its older and nicer than the other two but ive been.having a lot of black spots on a good majority of the leaves and one of them the tips of all the leaves are just starting to turn black. Ive had to partially defoliated them some to get rid of affected leaves until i bought some fungicide from wal mart, which is an 3 in 1 fungacide, pesticide, and spider mite control. Ive sprayed the crap out of all 3 trees. Now im pretty sure its a fungus and the picture of the black spots/rusty leaves on yhe fungacide bottle is identical to what mine look like. I just acquired two more collected american hornbeams from a friend that are bigger, nicer and more refined. Im really worried that they are going to get the fungus as well. Does it spread like wildfire? Should I move all infected trees away from all my other trees? I also had.about five azaleas die on me a couple months ago. I bought them in early spring, chopped em back hard, they back.bused and leaves out into perfect canopies and silhouettes in just a couole months and were super healthy and then all of a sudden, one by one they stopped growing, leaves started turning colors, black spots, leaves fell off and they all died but I had like 5 more azaleas that ive done the same work to over the years mixed in with them and they are.fine. please help.. this is where.bonsai becomes more than wiring, pruning and watering. Horticultural stuff that I need help with. Lol hopefully you guys dont need pics but they can be provided if needed. Thanks---ben

 

[Eric Group]

The horticulture is the most important part. If you can't keep them alive, there is no bonsai.

Yes, move any sick trees as far away from others as possible. Get a new treatment if what you have doesn't work... Hard to tell what it might be from your description but I like to start mild- something like Neem oil or there are all sorts of "home made" remedies like baking soda...- and work my way up to harder stuff like Copper or Lime Sulfur (full on nuclear, not recommended when trees are in leaf). The azaleas are a tough one.. Sometimes they get a "blight" and just drop dead it seems. Had two do it to me last year... I am sure I must have done something wrong, but nothing I did seemed to help them. I have dozens doing great now so it is frustrating and confusing when it happens... But you just have to keep trying and learning from past mistakes/ problems.

 

[jk_lewis]

It would be nice to see a picture. And, remember, Hornbeam ARE understory trees. They will not like the full NC sun.

Segregate the trees. Give them space between on another, too. Keep the new horbeam WELL away from them, tho many funguses are spread by wind, so it may not matter that much. Sterilize tools used on them.

Take the tree/trees to your nearest County Extension agent (probably in your county seat) to ID the fungus and get suggestions for treatment. Extension agents are one of the best FREE government services that exist. Everyone who grows things should take advantage.

Where are you in western NC?

 

[benw3790]

The horticulture is the most important part. If you can't keep them alive, there is no bonsai.

Yes, move any sick trees as far away from others as possible. Get a new treatment if what you have doesn't work... Hard to tell what it might be from your description but I like to start mild- something like Neem oil or there are all sorts of "home made" remedies like baking soda...- and work my way up to harder stuff like Copper or Lime Sulfur (full on nuclear, not recommended when trees are in leaf). The azaleas are a tough one.. Sometimes they get a "blight" and just drop dead it seems. Had two do it to me last year... I am sure I must have done something wrong, but nothing I did seemed to help them. I have dozens doing great now so it is frustrating and confusing when it happens... But you just have to keep trying and learning from past mistakes/ problems.

Hey I just started the treatment so idk how long it will take to start working but I used the entire bottle. Over the last 3 days. ive pretty much cut all the infected leaves off so we will see if the rest get infected or not. I moved them away from the rest of my collection and way further from the two new .hornbeams I just got. the azalea thing is a real bummer.. ive found myself to be good with azaleas so it was really frustrating.. I did everything right and then all of a sudden they start dropping leaves and died.. one of them was nice and had sentimental value to me because of my girlfriend. I always let it bud one flower every year to give one to her before I cut the buds out. But as they say.. shit happens. I just hope I dont lose my hornbeams or get anything else infected. I really appreciate your post and suggestions/input.

 

[benw3790]

It would be nice to see a picture. And, remember, Hornbeam ARE understory trees. They will not like the full NC sun.

Segregate the trees. Give them space between on another, too. Keep the new horbeam WELL away from them, tho many funguses are spread by wind, so it may not matter that much. Sterilize tools used on them.

Take the tree/trees to your nearest County Extension agent (probably in your county seat) to ID the fungus and get suggestions for treatment. Extension agents are one of the best FREE government services that exist. Everyone who grows things should take advantage.

Where are you in western NC?

I moved them far away from the of my collection! I will use your suggestions and keep my hornbeams In partial sun from now on. The leaves were just getting black blotches on them and some of the leaves just developed black tips. the tips would turn jet black and curl up. I noticed it spread from hornbeam to hornbeam. I think one or two of my japanese maples got it too. ive sprayed and treated them all with a whole bottle of fungacide/insecticide/spidermites and defoliated the infected leaves. Time will tell... thank you for the reminder about hornbeams and I appreciate your input JIll!

 

[sikadelic]

Are the tips dry and curling too? If so, that may be a sign of too much sun. I have a K. Hornbeam that is half shaded. I noticed the side that does not receive as much shade had started to turn a light brown and curl around the leaf tips. The side that received the shade had no discoloration and the leaves were fine (aside from what the damn japanese beetles aren't snacking on).

Now I just make sure to rotate my tree around every day or so to try and keep it evenly shaded.

 

[jk_lewis]

idk how long it will take to start working but I used the entire bottle.

and

treated them all with a whole bottle of fungacide/insecticide/spidermites

(emphasis added.)

OMG (as the teenies say). I don't wonder that your trees don't feel well. Fungacides and insecticides are POISONS. Even if not designed to kill plants, that much of them is capable of poisoning the neighborhood around them, too. We used overkill in Vietnam; no need to try it on our trees.

 

[Paradox]

I agree, WAAY overkill. Ive used a whole bottle of Daconil on my trees but that was treating 20 or more trees.
You should cover the soil with something when you spray them as well. I got a bunch of cheap hand towels and use those. I have enough to spray a few trees and let the stuff dry before moving on to the next batch of trees.

 

[benw3790]

(emphasis added.)

OMG (as the teenies say). I don't wonder that your trees don't feel well. Fungacides and insecticides are POISONS. Even if not designed to kill plants, that much of them is capable of poisoning the neighborhood around them, too. We used overkill in Vietnam; no need to try it on our trees.

Lol I have about 35 trees.. I used the entire bottle on my whole collection not just on two or three trees. I used most of it on the hornbeams though. I noticed today, that the two new hornbeams I just got are starting to do the same thing and they are a good 60ft away from the infected ones. None of my other trees have any issues at all what so ever besides my japanese maples.. they seem to be growing slowly and sometimes the leaves get white spots and they are definitely growing better since I put them in the shade. Here is a picture of what the leaves on my.hornbeams are doing... oh and by the way I live in statesville nc, which is about 45 minutes north of charlotte. Thanks for all your input bud!!

 

[benw3790]

Are the tips dry and curling too? If so, that may be a sign of too much sun. I have a K. Hornbeam that is half shaded. I noticed the side that does not receive as much shade had started to turn a light brown and curl around the leaf tips. The side that received the shade had no discoloration and the leaves were fine (aside from what the damn japanese beetles aren't snacking on).

Now I just make sure to rotate my tree around every day or so to try and keep it evenly shaded.

Is this what yours were doing?
I thought that maybe it could be from the sun but it wasnt gradual anf i watched it kind of "spread" from hornbeam to hornbeam. Now the two new hornbeams i got habe 2 or 3 leaves that are starting to do this, about a week after bringing them home. i have all my hornbeams in partial sun now.

 

[benw3790]

I agree, WAAY overkill. Ive used a whole bottle of Daconil on my trees but that was treating 20 or more trees.
You should cover the soil with something when you spray them as well. I got a bunch of cheap hand towels and use those. I have enough to spray a few trees and let the stuff dry before moving on to the next batch of trees.

I used the whole bottle on about 35 trees. But I used most of it on the hornbeams. I never knew to cover the surface.. will it negatively affect the roots?? I can see the soapy-ness in the soil as I water, from it washing off the leaves. I hope I didnt make a bad mistake. Everything but the hornbeams are super healthy though. I just need something that WORKS. Everytime ive tried pesticides in the past. . I still see leaf eating bugs on my trees the next day and I still get leaves that are being ate on. I feel like none of that stuff actually works. I hope its not the same with the fungacide. Im gonna go to wal mart tomorrow and get that daconil, to see if it will help. I will be sure to cover the soil and I promise I won't use a whole entire bottle on five trees. Lol

 

[jk_lewis]

I hope I didnt make a bad mistake. Everything but the hornbeams are super healthy though. I just need something that WORKS. Everytime ive tried pesticides in the past. . I still see leaf eating bugs on my trees the next day and I still get leaves that are being ate on. I feel like none of that stuff actually works. I hope its not the same with the fungacide. Im gonna go to wal mart tomorrow and get that daconil, to see if it will help. I will be sure to cover the soil and I promise I won't use a whole entire bottle on five trees. Lol

Well, I'd certainly not lol again. You likely DID "make a bad mistake." Did you even bother to read the label on the bottle of whatever it was?

I suggest you water the hell out of those hornbeams for the next several days to TRY to flush whatever it was out of the soil.

And, next time you have a problem, try to identify what is causing it, then use something made to correct the problem (usually on the label). You can always take a twig (or the entire plant)to your county Agricultual Extension Agent's office for assistance in IDing the problem and getting solutions. The help is free -- which always seems popular around here.

Please remember that a lot of leaf issue are simply from heat or sunlight, not some dire bug or disease.

 

[bonhe]

Hi Benw3790,
Can you tell us what time did you water your trees? Did you water the leaves as well? What is your yard humidity lately?
Is the pot draining well? How does the soil surface look?
Thanks
Bonhe

 

[benw3790]

[QUOTEl, post: 273654, member: 4442"]Well, I'd certainly not lol again. You likely DID "make a bad mistake." Did you even bother to read the label on the bottle of whatever it was?

I suggest you water the hell out of those hornbeams for the next several days to TRY to flush whatever it was out of the soil.

And, next time you have a problem, try to identify what is causing it, then use something made to correct the problem (usually on the label). You can always take a twig (or the entire plant)to your county Agricultual Extension Agent's office for assistance in IDing the problem and getting solutions. The help is free -- which always seems popular around here.

Please remember that a lot of leaf issue are simply from heat or sunlight, not some dire bug or disease.[/QUOTE]
I did read the labels. And went by the directions man.. and I had consulted with other people before coming to b nut with it and I was told that it was a fungus. The picture of the leaves on the bottle look identical to what my leaves are doing. I dont think I made a big mistake. And I have no idea what the place is our how to get there or what it is... all my trees will be fine. I just have to find something to use that will work or find a solution for this problem. Asking people who arebt going to treat me like im sort of dumbass and reasearching and lewrning by myself.

 

[benw3790]

Hi Benw3790,
Can you tell us what time did you water your trees? Did you water the leaves as well? What is your yard humidity lately?
Is the pot draining well? How does the soil surface look?
Thanks
Bonhe

I water my trees when I get home from work (if they need it) yes I watered the leaves. I try not to water, especially the leaves, in the hottest part of the day when the sun is out. All my hornbeams are young and in big pots for growing out so they are all planted in organic potting soil. Not bonsai soil. So they do not get watered as often. The two new hornbeams I got are also planted in regular potting soil. The leaves are starting to do the same thing to them. all of these hornbeams are collected from last year.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I try not to water, especially the leaves, in the hottest part of the day when the sun is out.

This is exactly when I like to get out there and spray everything down; leaves, trunks, pots, benches. Just a little bump to get through the hottest part of the day.

 

[benw3790]

This is exactly when I like to get out there and spray everything down; leaves, trunks, pots, benches. Just a little bump to get through the hottest part of the day.

Well Im normally not home during this part of the day but sometimes on the weekend s ill get out there and water everything for th same reason you stated. But ive always heard water droplets act as magnifying gglasses for thr sun to scorch your leaves. The same with growing grass. Fact or myth??? Who knows

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Fact or myth??? Who knows

I know. It's a myth. Think it through. By the time a drop of water can heat up enough to cause a burn, it will have evaporated.

 

[Giga]

I know. It's a myth. Think it through. By the time a drop of water can heat up enough to cause a burn, it will have evaporated.

This is correct been doing this for years on the hottest part of the day to no ill effect

 

[jk_lewis]

And I have no idea what the place is our how to get there or what it is..

It is in the phone book. Usually under County Government. It is a nationwide service set up for home gardeners and will diagnose plant ailments, identify insects, and suggest treatments. It is YOUR tax dollars at work and one of the few truly free government offerings the GOP has left us. It is invaluable to anyone who grows things.

I'd sure like to read that label.