Plum tree chopping back?

Maloghurst

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Hello, I saw some potential in this plum tree that had sprouted and grown from under a tree and reaching for sun it grew slowly and sideways. I harvested it August 31st and cleaned the roots and potted it. I chopped back a little so it wasn't going to tip the pot. My question is when and how far back can I chop without killing it? Also any suggestions on the style would be appreciated. The leaves are all pretty far out on the branches. Could I develop this as a cascade of sorts? Or eventually chop all the way back to that first potential leader? We are in the Pacific Northwest just FYI.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

thank you! mike
 

Geo

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First, welcome to the Nut House. Second: fill in your location in the profile. Be a bit more specific. PNW is a lot of country. It is climate zones that are important. And can we have the name of the Plum species, preferably the Latin name?

George
 

sorce

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I like that beast in the background!
What is that?

Seems you're gonna be waiting to get some lower branching.

That is, if it survives collecting now.

I'd leave it till next fall.

Sorce
 

Maloghurst

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I like that beast in the background!
What is that?

Seems you're gonna be waiting to get some lower branching.

That is, if it survives collecting now.

I'd leave it till next fall.

Sorce
I believe it's a ceder but not 100%. It takes up about 1/3 of my backyard!
 

Maloghurst

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I believe it's a ceder but not 100%. It takes up about 1/3 of my backyard!
First, welcome to the Nut House. Second: fill in your location in the profile. Be a bit more specific. PNW is a lot of country. It is climate zones that are important. And can we have the name of the Plum species, preferably the Latin name?

George
[QUOTE="Geo, post: 282761, member:
Ok Thanks for replying, I believe it's an Italian plum, prunus cocomilia. Hardiness zone 8b Seattle Washington. I figured I would leave it till next year, but was curious if it would bud back if I just keep the tips trimmed?
 

GrimLore

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My question is when and how far back can I chop without killing it?

The safest recommendation on cutting would be to Winter it as is and see how it handles it. The tree is far from established right now and I am pretty certain you might/could kill it. Looks good though and would like if you posted follow up pictures in the Spring. As it there is at least 2 ways to go with it but it will be and easier call down the road. Welcome to B-Nut!

Grimmy
 

Maloghurst

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The safest recommendation on cutting would be to Winter it as is and see how it handles it. The tree is far from established right now and I am pretty certain you might/could kill it. Looks good though and would like if you posted follow up pictures in the Spring. As it there is at least 2 ways to go with it but it will be and easier call down the road. Welcome to B-Nut!

Grimmy
Thanks, that's about what I was thinking, but I've read that a common mistake from enthusiasts are not being brutal enough when chopping back. Thanks I believe that is sound advice, I will post pics next year!
I like that beast in the background!
What is that?

Seems you're gonna be waiting to get some lower branching.

That is, if it survives collecting now.

I'd leave it till next fall.

Sorce
I like that beast in the background!
What is that?

Seems you're gonna be waiting to get some lower branching.

That is, if it survives collecting now.

I'd leave it till next fall.

Sorce
image.jpg image.jpg Hey source,Thought you might want to see a better pic of the "beast"
 

sorce

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Thanks, that's about what I was thinking, but I've read that a common mistake from enthusiasts are not being brutal enough when chopping back. Thanks I believe that is sound advice, I will post pics next year!


View attachment 81373 View attachment 81374 Hey source,Thought you might want to see a better pic of the "beast"

Beautiful!

Thank you!

Sorce
 

Gaitano

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I rescued one this spring, prunus Americana. These are very hardy. When I collected it there were not a lot of fine roots. I chopped it at collection as well, as it was around 8'. It sent out shoots after a month and has not skipped a beat. When I chopped it, there were no low branches. The bark is nice and flakey.

The first picture was 3/28, the second was 5/31.
image.jpg image.jpg
 

Txhorticulture

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Think the beast in your back yard is a redwood. Seqouiadendron
 

Maloghurst

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I rescued one this spring, prunus Americana. These are very hardy. When I collected it there were not a lot of fine roots. I chopped it at collection as well, as it was around 8'. It sent out shoots after a month and has not skipped a beat. When I chopped it, there were no low branches. The bark is nice and flakey.

The first picture was 3/28, the second was 5/31.
View attachment 81409 View attachment 81410
Thanks for responding Gaitano, I'm thinking it might be a little late in the year to do the same? But that's my plan for spring of next year. That's good to know they are hardy trees. Mine has a beautiful mass of fine roots. Seemed like there was a gravel bed under the soil.
 

Gaitano

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Definitely wait until spring. Use the fall weather to let it stabilize in its new home.
 

Maloghurst

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Hey nuts, just checking in with an update on the plum tree I harvested last fall. It's growing very well and the new bud are huge, you can almost watch it grow! I was curious when is the the best time to chop back to the second big branch. I want it to hopefully bud back to the trunk and maybe a new leader will start lower down. Also the new branches are like 1/4' thick already. Not quite what I was expecting.
I was thinking I should get rid of all the old leaves and branches so the trees energy would all be directed into the new growth or new buds. Maybe 4 inches past the second old branch? Is now a good time for the tree to heal or wait till fall or next year? Maybe it needs the extra leaves for energy?
Thanks for the replys! -mikeimage.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

GrimLore

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If it is anything like any Plum I have worked on the time to do those chops was a few weeks ago when the buds just started to push. What I experience with most all Fruit trees is the sap flow at wound when they are in leaf is very hard to stop. I have actually had to use a mini-torch a few times when they were in leaf and a storm or critter snapped a branch... Nice to see it is doing good though!

Grimmy
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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good growing

Grimmy is right, best time tochop was before bud break. Won't hurt to let it grow until 2017.

A less favorable time to chop would be after the new shoots have extended, and wood is at least semi-hardened off for the first 3 or 4 internodes, but before the spring push of growth completely stops. In my zone 5b climate this end up being middle of June. Response is not as good. If the reason you are doing this is to force back budding, might be better to wait until late winter 2017.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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actually, I looked again, you could potentially make the entire tree out of the first branch. When you cut in late winter 2017, condider this possibility, rotate tree and tilt back so bottom of first branch becomes the ''front'' of the tree. This will give you taper and bring down size.

Disease conrol is another reason to make cuts only in late winter, before fungal spores are everywhere.
 
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