Pomegranate bonsai!

[Purplecadillacproductions]

Hello again everyone!

I am thinking about growing this seedling out to make it into a pomegranate bonsai. It has a main shoot and a secondary, smaller shoot. I think it could be a cool bonsai tree! Despite the pics making it look massive, it is about 10 inches tall. My main question is, do I need to mess with the tap root at all when I transport it into it's cheap training pot? Or do I just pop it in there and let it grow?! I am also open to all criticisms, as this is an art and everyone has something else to contribute! Thanks in advance

Ryan

 

[Clicio]

Hello again everyone!

I am thinking about growing this seedling out to make it into a pomegranate bonsai. It has a main shoot and a secondary, smaller shoot. I think it could be a cool bonsai tree! Despite the pics making it look massive, it is about 10 inches tall. My main question is, do I need to mess with the tap root at all when I transport it into it's cheap training pot? Or do I just pop it in there and let it grow?! I am also open to all criticisms, as this is an art and everyone has something else to contribute! Thanks in advance

Ryan

Just let it grow for the moment.

 

[MrWunderful]

Yes cut the taproot. Look into bonsai soil on this site and online, there is a significant amount of info and multiple opinions.

Most will say to put movement in the trunk with wire, (I agree btw) but wiring is another rabbit hole to go down. If you do choose to put movement in and let it grow for a few years, while doing small amounts specific maintenance you will have something.

People who “grow bonsai” from very small seedlings will use extreme techniques and ground growing/ sacrifice to increase trunk size rapidly, and rarely use the “first” branches, so keep that in perspective if you are aiming for something show/ photography worthy.

Good luck

 

[TN_Jim]

Hello again everyone!

I am thinking about growing this seedling out to make it into a pomegranate bonsai. It has a main shoot and a secondary, smaller shoot. I think it could be a cool bonsai tree! Despite the pics making it look massive, it is about 10 inches tall. My main question is, do I need to mess with the tap root at all when I transport it into it's cheap training pot? Or do I just pop it in there and let it grow?! I am also open to all criticisms, as this is an art and everyone has something else to contribute! Thanks in advance

Ryan

Purple Caddy, where is e. longmeadow?

Im in 7a, got a couple of pomegranates had about a year, limited work, still in nursery soil, need to do the exact work you’re talking about.

I will overwinter these again in my garage (Pom and C. myrtle only ones in garage) -Pomegranate is cold hardy ~zone 8-10, can’t make my January outdoors.

Tap roots art not for bonsai pots, gotta go, nursery soil gotta go, but not till late winter/early spring.

...looking forward to others thoughts on this. I believe @Leo in N E Illinois has spoken well of Pomegranate. In my experience over the past year they definitely seem tough and well suited. Also, the hummingbirds seem love their flowers..
Thanks

 

[Purplecadillacproductions]

Yes cut the taproot. Look into bonsai soil on this site and online, there is a significant amount of info and multiple opinions.

Most will say to put movement in the trunk with wire, (I agree btw) but wiring is another rabbit hole to go down. If you do choose to put movement in and let it grow for a few years, while doing small amounts specific maintenance you will have something.

People who “grow bonsai” from very small seedlings will use extreme techniques and ground growing/ sacrifice to increase trunk size rapidly, and rarely use the “first” branches, so keep that in perspective if you are aiming for something show/ photography worthy.

Good luck

Wow, thank you so much! this helps clear things up a lot. Is there an age that is too young to start wiring the seedling? Or can it be done whenever? I wouldn't mind learning more about that!

 

[Purplecadillacproductions]

Purple Caddy, where is e. longmeadow?

Im in 7a, got a couple of pomegranates had about a year, limited work, still in nursery soil, need to do the exact work you’re talking about.

I will overwinter these again in my garage (Pom and C. myrtle only ones in garage) -Pomegranate is cold hardy ~zone 8-10, can’t make my January outdoors.

Tap roots art not for bonsai pots, gotta go, nursery soil gotta go, but not till late winter/early spring.

...looking forward to others thoughts on this. I believe @Leo in N E Illinois has spoken well of Pomegranate. In my experience over the past year they definitely seem tough and well suited. Also, the hummingbirds seem love their flowers..
Thanks

I am over in Western Massachusetts!

I think these will make for a fun project, thank you for pointing me in the right direction!!

Did you grow them from seed?

 

[MrWunderful]

Wow, thank you so much! this helps clear things up a lot. Is there an age that is too young to start wiring the seedling? Or can it be done whenever? I wouldn't mind learning more about that!

The earlier the better. Generally it is on 1-3 year old whips. Its more about the timing of the season in my own opinion.

Go down whatever bonsai rabbit hole you want online, there is tons of info out there (including this site) A multitude of books as well. Here is a 2 yr old zelkova (elm) whip from seed that I am bending using a different method but to same effect because I have it near the edge of a growing bed. Its a more extreme example.



Most deciduous trees can be trained in a similar fashion (including pomegranate).
I plan on using large yearly sacrifice branches to build the trunk in the bed for 3-4 years before I will even start on branches.

All of this comes behind getting it in quality soil first, as I am a believer in setting up the roots and health before everything else.

 

[Purplecadillacproductions]

The earlier the better. Generally it is on 1-3 year old whips. Its more about the timing of the season in my own opinion.

Go down whatever bonsai rabbit hole you want online, there is tons of info out there (including this site) A multitude of books as well. Here is a 2 yr old zelkova (elm) whip from seed that I am bending using a different method but to same effect because I have it near the edge of a growing bed. Its a more extreme example.

View attachment 332175

Most deciduous trees can be trained in a similar fashion (including pomegranate).
I plan on using large yearly sacrifice branches to build the trunk in the bed for 3-4 years before I will even start on branches.

All of this comes behind getting it in quality soil first, as I am a believer in setting up the roots and health before everything else.

Your help is very much appreciated and getting me excited to get working on it! I better do some more research on this forum. Is the best way to make my own bonsai soil? Do I have to wait until I put it in the good soil, even if I'm just getting it now and about to plant it in it's training pot?

You're elm whip is really cool!

 

[TN_Jim]

Did you grow them from seed?

Have two..there was a big one 1.5ish trunk that wasn’t doing great and certain bound for the dump pile, could likely have been a mother plant -came back very healthy this year & convinced me to get another.

second one (photos) found among many, brought home because of movement..1 gallon pot, pretty sure from cutting propagation. Both are dwarf varieties. I am not sure best means to germinate a pomegranate seed, but pretty certain they can root well

 

[Carol 83]

My little dwarf pom is currently blooming.

 

[MrWunderful]

Your help is very much appreciated and getting me excited to get working on it! I better do some more research on this forum. Is the best way to make my own bonsai soil? Do I have to wait until I put it in the good soil, even if I'm just getting it now and about to plant it in it's training pot?

You're elm whip is really cool!

Thank you.

The answer for your questions on making soils is “it depends”.


It depends on the species, your location/microclimate, and your time availability among others. I live in a much different climate than you, so what works for me might be a disaster for you.


Some places will sell premixed soil but it tends to get expensive after you get a few trees, but is better if you have only a few trees.

A significant amount of professionals, hobbyists and myself use Akadama/pumice/lava in 1:1:1 ratios or a variant and make their own.
Most of my deciduous are in 100% akadama, but I have very easy access.
My Japanese black pines are in 1:1:1 APL.
My coast redwoods are in 3:1:1 w/ pine bark etc. - just an example of how I do it.


It should get into good quality soil asap for ease of watering/fert. Even if its a training pot.