Powerful Carpinus Broom

BobbyLane

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From nursery material, i bought this tree with a view to sell on, but i think im going to keep it.....


20190130_151109 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

the best features of the tree are the powerful, fluted base, muscular contoured trunk
20190131_095717 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
20190131_095750 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

not much taper in the trunk
20190131_095818 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
20190131_095704 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
20190131_095837 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

however, i could possibly have tried to do something here, by chopping close to the leader at the top in the middle...i did actually try a couple of lower chops, but wasnt convinced
20190131_183006 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
 

BobbyLane

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i decided that if i chopped much lower, i could begin creating a broom style tree, with a clean V cut between two existing, well developed branches....

i could make the most of the impressive nebari and basal flare, the V cut gives the best chance of creating a big chop that can be hidden easily with a dense crown
20190201_142029 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

i have a few trees with hollows and deadwood so wanted to create a clean scar less trunk with this material
20190201_142037 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

once the tree adjusts ill go in and concave the walls of the V cut...
2019-02-05_08-51-37 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

now, removing that lower right branch was a huge dilemma, because i know it looks really good and balances the tree out!:(

but i wanted to make the main feature the base and nebari, tapered contours of the trunk stand out even more.... i kept looking at the image and just seeing a nice branch structure, but when i took the branch away i appreciated the trunk/base much more....the low right branch obscured the clean lines IMHO and would of caused some thickening

so off it went
20190205_202607 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

Tree just needs time now, there's a couple leader in the centre, im looking to get some more height there

i also think the V cut gives the best impression of a wild tree where the trunk grows up and splits into two apex's

20190205_202607 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
 
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coh

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i have a few trees with hollows and deadwood so wanted to create a clean scar less trunk with this material
Looks good! Though you know, that spot where you removed the low branch would be a great location for a deadwood feature... :)
 

BobbyLane

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Looks good! Though you know, that spot where you removed the low branch would be a great location for a deadwood feature... :)

giphy.gif


:D
 

bwaynef

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With the notion that you want a scarless trunk, could you talk about why you chose to chop like that?
 

BobbyLane

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With the notion that you want a scarless trunk, could you talk about why you chose to chop like that?

i should maybe re phrase that, because the chop at the top will never fully heal. but in time, once callus starts to roll in around the wound, there won't be any visible scarring from my chosen front.
 

BobbyLane

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Here's its younger brother, this one has a smaller wound at the top that will be fully healed in 3-5 years. this one may now go into a grow bed for a season or two, planted on a tile. i'd like it a little bigger than shohin, around 10-12 inches or so
IMG_7374 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr
 

peterbone

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I like what you've done, but think you should think more about developing thickness in the new leaders and negative space in your virt. I'd now let the leaders grow for 2 or 3 years unpruned to build a believable transition from the thick trunk, otherwise you end up with something that looks pollarded.
 

BobbyLane

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I like what you've done, but think you should think more about developing thickness in the new leaders and negative space in your virt. I'd now let the leaders grow for 2 or 3 years unpruned to build a believable transition from the thick trunk, otherwise you end up with something that looks pollarded.

i agree Peter, thats the plan, to get the leaders to thicken up. become more 'sub trunk' like.
 

BobbyLane

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a few days ago i decided to put this one in my grow bed, removed all the wire. planted it in with a load of old bonsai soil and compost. will be fed heavily with chicken feed and just left to grow out and establish itself. i will use the hedge pruning method on it while its in the growing bed. will take some pics later in the season

this is something i often do with raw hornbeams, they are so vigorous in the ground and often the nodes still remain plentiful and fairly short.
the callusing i want at the top of the trunk will happen much faster this way....as will the transitions at the junctions
 

Bonsai Nut

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I appreciate the enthusiasm and commitment to a design vision!

I think you are correct in moving it to a grow bed to get that wound to close as quickly as possible. The only thing I would add is that you aren't developing this tree as a broom... it will be an awesome informal upright when you are done.
 

BobbyLane

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I appreciate the enthusiasm and commitment to a design vision!

I think you are correct in moving it to a grow bed to get that wound to close as quickly as possible. The only thing I would add is that you aren't developing this tree as a broom... it will be an awesome informal upright when you are done.

Hi Nut. im not putting it in the ground to close the wound:)

im doing it to get the transitions at the top quicker and to develop a large crown. the bonus is that the edges of the wounds roll in and become quite fat.
so really not much different from the BVF hawthorn where he has a V at the top. hornbeam callus rolls in quite well. so, the top of the trunk will likely be hollow, but you wouldnt know when viewing from the correct angle. it should just appear as a trunk that splits into two like many trees in nature.
an informal upright is usually defined by one trunk line and a single apex. this will be informal broom. 2-3 apex one either side of top and if all goes well, one in the front as there is a bud emerging from the top of trunk at the front and i need that to develop to give the tree good depth which it doesnt have right now. so it needs a spell in the ground to get these convincing transitions
 
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BobbyLane

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this one spent most of the season in a grow bed and was dug up n repotted a few weeks ago...
theres a few extra branches to work with now, i think the leader on the right has gotten thicker and i will do a little carving at the top of the trunk trunk where its died back a little.
i think there is another option to tilt the tree left and develop a trunk with great taper with that main leader and use the left branch as main side branch, will see...
20190925_164433.jpg20190925_162753.jpg
 

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Warpig

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Im curios as to why you decided to repot it now, as opposed too leaving it in a grow box for the winter? It has been my understanding that you will get much more growth come spring if it was left in a grow box. Not that the trees at risk but its just in alot less soil now.
 

BobbyLane

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it will grow just fine in this pot. there can be numerous reasons why i dig up a tree that was previously in a pot. i may wish to sell it. i may wish to work on it. i may have made space for it and decided to bring it back up on my balcony etc etc etc
i dont really use grow boxes mate.

you may have seen my other hornbeams, here is one that went from a training pot to a bonsai pot in dec 2018
 
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Warpig

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Wasn't trying to question your methods! I was merely asking because if it was my tree in my set up with me being in the stage of learning i am in, i would of left it for the winter. I'm not saying thats what you need to do lol. I ask to know what to look for. Thank you.



,Mate.
 

BobbyLane

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i decided to expose more of the front on this, partly to add some interest and partly because there were no branches at the front of the trunk apart from the main leader on the right, the volume of empty wood there was taken back.i think the tie in with the main leader on the right has improved.
could eventually be hollowed right out20191026_150055.jpg
20191026_145808.jpg
 

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ConorDash

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Yeh I’m also questioning digging up.. if you wanted those leaders to thicken, why put in ground then dig up in same season? It’s not benefitted from the ground at all yet..

I think it’d be great to leave in ground 2 years and get 1-2 great thick leaders. Chop then develop branching. As your original plan was?
 
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