Practicing Big Bend Techniques On Collected Lodgepole

Josh88

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This tree was among my first three collected from the wilds in June of 2017, and my approach was to take trees that were unimpressive to learn how to collect successfully without risking great old trees, and earn my way into better material. This also provides the opportunity to learn to develop these species, and apply more advanced techniques to these trees once they’ve recovered. Today was the day to take the next step with this little guy.
0FD70806-3E3E-4500-A0DA-DBB1CD48E157.png
From the moment I collected it I had planned on placing a big bend to fold it back on itself and style the tree similar to a cascade, without the foliage dropping below the pot rim. Even though the trunk was quite thin, it had a very nice bark formed, as even the “seedlings” in this area are quite old. The tree has gotten very healthy in the last two years and the trunk has easily doubled in girth already. It seemed I should put the big band in place before it got any thicker.
5F732AEA-73ED-4448-9C16-A8D910B773AD.jpeg
I really tried to focus on technique, working on good raffia application and using 4 gauge copper wire, which is of a gauge I don’t have much practice with yet. Both procedures went relatively smoothly and I was very happy with the application and outcome. I utilized a lot rotation with the bend and didn’t hear or feel any snaps or pops at all.
B51AEF97-7217-4BB6-9670-7CA9CB09B4C7.jpeg
Here’s a view from above.
BEA15774-D020-4DA5-82F0-36CE96DA7FD6.jpeg
There are a lot of bar branches, but they aren't causing taper issues yet, and I want to keep as much flowing through the tree as possible to continue thickening the trunk, to heal the bend, and to promote more backbudding. Next year this time will hopefully bring branch selection and wiring out what will be kept. I feel good about how this process went today and having taken a big step toward a long held vision and getting some good experience and practice in. Next weekend I’m off to collect some more trees, and hopefully that will get better and better too...
 

Potawatomi13

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Work looks good so far. It will take much time to add to trunk diameter with that little foliage and in such a small container;). The good news: Literati do not need heavy trunks.
 

CWTurner

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Nice!

I'm interested in the background of your first pic. What's with that chasm or sinkhole that seems to have swallowed a tree?
Or is it just an optical illusion?
CW
 

Josh88

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Nice!

I'm interested in the background of your first pic. What's with that chasm or sinkhole that seems to have swallowed a tree?
Or is it just an optical illusion?
CW
The Cascade Mountain Range running through Oregon and Washington is a chain of volcanos, so there are all kinds of lava features scattered about. This area is full of chasms and sinkholes, lava tubes, and all kinds of crazy features. There are wild tortured trees everywhere, and with many areas of a foot or so of duff covering the rock there are a lot with collectible root systems.
 

Jorow99

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Looks pretty good! My only critique is your wire left the trunk on the inside of the bend, which tells me you didn't bend it quite right. The wire needs to be touching the middle of the inside of the bend, pushing it out. The way it is wired gives you less leverage, but the thick 4 gauge wire makes up for it.
 

Josh88

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Looks pretty good! My only critique is your wire left the trunk on the inside of the bend, which tells me you didn't bend it quite right. The wire needs to be touching the middle of the inside of the bend, pushing it out. The way it is wired gives you less leverage, but the thick 4 gauge wire makes up for it.
Thank you for the critique. Any suggestions for technique on how to keep wire flush to the trunk in a bend of this degree?
 

Wilson

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Nice work Josh! I like the approach of mastering collecting, before going after the big ol' beauties. There is always much to be considered, and the need to be properly prepared for arriving back home. I always keep odds and ends of lumber just for building boxes.
 

Mike Hennigan

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Thank you for the critique. Any suggestions for technique on how to keep wire flush to the trunk in a bend of this degree?
Try to twist the tree/branch in the direction that the wire is twisted as you bend.that should do it it and it will make the hold of the wire stronger as well. Also, good to think about which direction you’re applying the wire in so that it will twist the tree/branch in the way you want. This twist can be helpful in getting branches/sub branches into better positions as well.
 

Josh88

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Try to twist the tree/branch in the direction that the wire is twisted as you bend.that should do it it and it will make the hold of the wire stronger as well. Also, good to think about which direction you’re applying the wire in so that it will twist the tree/branch in the way you want. This twist can be helpful in getting branches/sub branches into better positions as well.
Thank you Mike.
 

Jorow99

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When you make the bend, you really only need to touch the wire. Once you know where you want to bend, put your thumbs on the inside of the bend (on the wire) and put one pointer finger to the left and one to the right on the outside of the bend (again, on the wire). Then push with your thumbs and pull with your fingers like you are trying to snap a twig. You may need to adjust hand positioning completely for thick wire like this, but where you apply the force should be the same.

I agree with twisting the branch to keep the wire tight.
 

0soyoung

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Why does it matter if the wire is loose on the inside of the bend? Is there any reason other than aesthetics?
 

Jorow99

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Yes you have lost leverage with the wire if it is not in contact with the branch on the inside of the bend. The wire on the inside is the fulcrum, the wire on the outside of the bend pushes the branch into the fulcrum which bends it. I think I should make a post explaining this in more detail with pictures.

The way OP has wired it, the branch now has a longer lever arm to bend the wire back straight. In this situation it still worked because even with the longer lever arm the tree wasn't able to bend the wire back because the wire was so thick. He probably could have used 6 gauge instead of 4 with better technique.
 

Adair M

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Yes you have lost leverage with the wire if it is not in contact with the branch on the inside of the bend. The wire on the inside is the fulcrum, the wire on the outside of the bend pushes the branch into the fulcrum which bends it. I think I should make a post explaining this in more detail with pictures.

The way OP has wired it, the branch now has a longer lever arm to bend the wire back straight. In this situation it still worked because even with the longer lever arm the tree wasn't able to bend the wire back because the wire was so thick. He probably could have used 6 gauge instead of 4 with better technique.
Interesting...

My thought was he was lucky the trunk didn’t snap. But I suppose the raffia had a role in that. I try to have the wire on the outside of the curve when bending. That seems to prevent all the stress being concentrated at a single point, where a snap can happen.
 

Jorow99

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That is also true, the reason requires a force diagram to explain, I will make one in a post in the near future. I think there will be occasions for both ways actually, one to create severe bends in one place with thinner wire, and one to create longer smoother bends with thicker wire that may leave the trunk.
 

Josh88

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That is also true, the reason requires a force diagram to explain, I will make one in a post in the near future. I think there will be occasions for both ways actually, one to create severe bends in one place with thinner wire, and one to create longer smoother bends with thicker wire that may leave the trunk.
Feel free to add this diagram here in this post. I’m always looking to expand my understanding of the physics involved in these techniques and how to improve their application.
 
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This tree was among my first three collected from the wilds in June of 2017, and my approach was to take trees that were unimpressive to learn how to collect successfully without risking great old trees, and earn my way into better material. This also provides the opportunity to learn to develop these species, and apply more advanced techniques to these trees once they’ve recovered. Today was the day to take the next step with this little guy.
View attachment 261445
From the moment I collected it I had planned on placing a big bend to fold it back on itself and style the tree similar to a cascade, without the foliage dropping below the pot rim. Even though the trunk was quite thin, it had a very nice bark formed, as even the “seedlings” in this area are quite old. The tree has gotten very healthy in the last two years and the trunk has easily doubled in girth already. It seemed I should put the big band in place before it got any thicker.
View attachment 261446
I really tried to focus on technique, working on good raffia application and using 4 gauge copper wire, which is of a gauge I don’t have much practice with yet. Both procedures went relatively smoothly and I was very happy with the application and outcome. I utilized a lot rotation with the bend and didn’t hear or feel any snaps or pops at all.
View attachment 261447
Here’s a view from above.
View attachment 261449
There are a lot of bar branches, but they aren't causing taper issues yet, and I want to keep as much flowing through the tree as possible to continue thickening the trunk, to heal the bend, and to promote more backbudding. Next year this time will hopefully bring branch selection and wiring out what will be kept. I feel good about how this process went today and having taken a big step toward a long held vision and getting some good experience and practice in. Next weekend I’m off to collect some more trees, and hopefully that will get better and better too...

I dig that shovel 🥁 Bada bump
 

Josh88

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I dig that shovel 🥁 Bada bump
That’s the “Root Slayer” made by Radius. You can find them on Amazon for $50 and it’s a very impressive product. I’ve used it for three collecting seasons now, and have also been digging out some 30 year old rhododendron from my landscape with it, and the blade is still sharp, the teeth on the sides work as a saw for thick roots, and the joint where the plastic meets the metal is incredibly strong, allowing for much more leverage and torque than you can put on any other shovel I’ve ever used. Plus it will be a go to if there is ever a zombie apocalypse. Nothing but good things to say about it and I just bought a second one for a non-bonsai buddy who likes to join me on collecting trips.
 
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