Preparing to dig a rather large yew, looking for additional advice in case I am missing something...

[GrimLore]

I currently have a 11 foot tall yew, over 40 years old to dig. The base is easily 9-11 inches wide at the soil line. This is what I have noted for the best chance of success -

1) Cut the specimen down to size just prior to Spring "push" or during that time.
2) Before planting clean the roots and rinse well as they are most likely compacted and would rot.
3) Use a non-organic substrate such as dry-stall
4) Keep in full sun with ample watering.

This is a "bear" and I see it may have some potential which I cannot represent in a photo as it is just to thick. If I am missing or I am in error please respond! I really want this one to take and have never handled a Yew before in collection.

Thanks in advance!

Grimmy

 

[barrosinc]

I might be mistaken, but always heard not to use full sun after a transplant.

 

[Dav4]

I might be mistaken, but always heard not to use full sun after a transplant.

I agree. Yews are shade tolerant to begin with...chopping away most of their roots and putting them out in full sun is not ideal, imo. I'd keep in morning sun only, really watch the watering, and see how it responds to the collection. If you get a good root system, more sun is fine.

 

[GrimLore]

Understood, It as been in full sun all of those years but I will see how it does for several weeks in partial as I did with the Burning Bush last year. That one definitely liked partial better. The leaves took on a much deeper color and were far studier in two days after moving it to partial.

That one was a rather aggressive dig but I suspect this monster will be a full day easily - hoping for good things

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

I'd try to keep as much foliage as possible. I've had success cutting the roots back pretty hard and hosing off the rootball completely. Drop into free draining soil (pumice or turface or a mix), and you'll have lots of fine feeder roots the next year. I do find that they limp along a bit in year two as I think they can store a lot of energy in the trunk, so go slowly with them after collection.

I've seen some really nice ones bite the dust a few years after collection, so even if the tree looks robust in the year or two after collection, definitely take your time. See the "HOG" in the link below - the owner is a member of my local club, and his yew ended up kicking the bucket. He didn't tell me if there was a particular cause, but I suspect it was from working the tree too hard over a relatively short period of time.

http://hans-van-meer.ofbonsai.org/2008/05/


I've dug five, and I've found that the roots tend not to go straight down, but tend to go out in planes like spokes on a wheel. The bigger ones might have multiple planes of roots. In some ways it's easier to dig them up, and in others, a bit frustrating when you get through one plane only to realize there's another thicker plane six plus inches lower. Though, if there are multiple planes, the lowest plane usually has pretty nice flare.

 

[GrimLore]

I'd try to keep as much foliage as possible. I've had success cutting the roots back pretty hard and hosing off the rootball completely. Drop into free draining soil (pumice or turface or a mix), and you'll have lots of fine feeder roots the next year. I do find that they limp along a bit in year two as I think they can store a lot of energy in the trunk, so go slowly with them after collection.

I've seen some really nice ones bite the dust a few years after collection, so even if the tree looks robust in the year or two after collection, definitely take your time. See the "HOG" in the link below - the owner is a member of my local club, and his yew ended up kicking the bucket. He didn't tell me if there was a particular cause, but I suspect it was from working the tree too hard over a relatively short period of time.

http://hans-van-meer.ofbonsai.org/2008/05/


I've dug five, and I've found that the roots tend not to go straight down, but tend to go out in planes like spokes on a wheel. The bigger ones might have multiple planes of roots. In some ways it's easier to dig them up, and in others, a bit frustrating when you get through one plane only to realize there's another thicker plane six plus inches lower. Though, if there are multiple planes, the lowest plane usually has pretty nice flare.

That is very interesting! My general rule of thumb has always been to pull and not cut back a ton leaving at least 24 inches of height the first cut with a 3-4 inch base. I figured on this monster I would go a little over 3 foot. I always have let digs rest and establish at least 3 years except for Wisteria which I am ok and successful with 2 years. The reason I asked for input is my general lack of experience with this species and I really appreciate EVERYONE's input so far!

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

Yews are tough - they are the only conifers I would attempt to be so tough on when it comes to the tops and roots. They aren't wisteria tough though - wisteria can't be killed!

 

[Cypress187]

They aren't wisteria tough though - wisteria can't be killed!

Oh, i want a wisteria .

 

[GrimLore]

Yews are tough - they are the only conifers I would attempt to be so tough on when it comes to the tops and roots. They aren't wisteria tough though - wisteria can't be killed!

I will take some pictures(when the snow melts around it) of a Wisteria that was huge, cut to the ground, and watered with gasoline for two years before the Grandfather passed. 15 Years later Gram has not touched it and it is at least 6 foot with a wild base and very prolific I must agree for that reason and the fact that I have given away a few really nice digs over the years that the new non-bonsai owners have not killed(or taken care of properly)

Grimmy

 

[Vance Wood]

A tree this large is going to be really difficult to get out of the ground. I have known people to have to resort to a truck and chain to remove them. Often their roots exist in layers one over the other. You may need chain saws or sawmills to cut the roots . Make sure you have plenty of help from people that still think of standing in front of mirrors and flexing biceps.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

My buddy in IA has had nearly 100% success digging them. He digs a big trench all the way around, then under, and lifts a pretty big root ball. If possible, transplant that into your yard for a year, then "re-collect" it after it has regenerated roots.

He cuts the top back pretty hard; leaving a few shoots/suckers as close to the bottom of each trunk you hope to keep. They should pop back along each trunk. Remember to leave some wood to carve!

Live veins tend to be recessed on yews; opposite from junipers, whose veins are raised.

Plant in shade, mist trunk and foliage several times daily.

Once potted, they seem to appreciate a good amount of pumice, and do well in quite a bit of shade.

I'll send this post to him and see if I can convince him to add some comments...

 

[GrimLore]

Much appreciated everyone! We are looking at what I am guessing to be a final dusting of snow Friday but it has been warm enough daily that our property is snow free right now. Plants and Trees are all showing signs of waking up so I am targeting next week for the Yew dig and the Azaleas soon after.

Grimmy

 

[Dav4]

Much appreciated everyone! We are looking at what I am guessing to be a final dusting of snow Friday but it has been warm enough daily that our property is snow free right now. Plants and Trees are all showing signs of waking up so I am targeting next week for the Yew dig and the Azaleas soon after.

Grimmy

In zone 6 MA, my landscape yews didn't start moving until mid to late April...March seems a bit early to be collecting, imo.

 

[GrimLore]

In zone 6 MA, my landscape yews didn't start moving until mid to late April...March seems a bit early to be collecting, imo.

We are in 6B but we are also central to the Pocono Mountains and the Jersey Shore which makes for us having a slightly better season(natural protection). I just went outside and confirmed that plant is just starting to push as well as the Crabapples which get their first Copper treatment today. Out back Maples, Cherry, Larch and Hornbeams all are just starting to push as well. The rest of the trees are just showing coloration on the last growth so pushing will happen soon(if they are alive of course).

Grimmy

 

[Jaberwky17]

I dug a big (but not nearly as big as yours) yew in the dank heat of August the summer before last. It was in horrible clay soil next to the back door of a restaurant and full of cigarette butts. I removed all the rocks and crap from the roots,cut back all but the main branches, and left it in the shade of the north porch until winter. It was fine.

 

[tom tynan]

Do you have time to cut it back hard this year and let it back bud in the ground and then dig it next year ?
Also - you will have many large lateral roots over 2 " to 3" in diameter. these will have fine roots at the ends that you will not be able to capture. It would be better to cut some of these (not all) lateral or side roots this year and then backfill with bonsai soil to get some fine roots started closer to the trunk. Plan on finding a good size tap root that will have to be cut with a sawz -all. You will need a big pry bar to get under this massive rootball. Have you built a wooden box or is this going back into the ground ? Good luck....Tom

 

[augustine]

Grimmy,

We dug a bunch last year from the garden of a public building, probably about 35 years old. Just do the best you can, good soil, retaining foliage, and very importantly securing tightly in the container. I would place in shade and mist on warm days.

My findings - the big boys are either going to live or die regardless. We had better success with the smaller trees. However, we were forced to dig in January. I sheltered mine the best I could and lost one out of three. Our group did not have great success with the big yews, however, weather may have been a factor.

You can dig anytime in April, maybe wait until you feel freezing temps are done for the year. The person above is correct they won't start to push until April.

You certainly have a good shot. Brace yourself for heavy work.

Best,

 

[GrimLore]

Grimmy,

We dug a bunch last year from the garden of a public building, probably about 35 years old. Just do the best you can, good soil, retaining foliage, and very importantly securing tightly in the container. I would place in shade and mist on warm days.

My findings - the big boys are either going to live or die regardless. We had better success with the smaller trees. However, we were forced to dig in January. I sheltered mine the best I could and lost one out of three. Our group did not have great success with the big yews, however, weather may have been a factor.

You can dig anytime in April, maybe wait until you feel freezing temps are done for the year. The person above is correct they won't start to push until April.

You certainly have a good shot. Brace yourself for heavy work.

Best,

Thank you and this one will be a beast to pull as it is also very close to a underground power entrance. I do not have options like cutting back, root work and I assure you I also pre prep when I can a year ahead. This one needs out and will be hopefully something I can complete in one day. I am going for it on next Wednesday when I return from camping early AM.

Thank you and everyone for all the solid advise based on experience!

Grimmy

 

[Giga]

Oh man I don't envy the work. I just dug a large juniper that's right at my limit and it took some serious work to get that out and intact. Pictures for sure if you get the beast out.

 

[GrimLore]

Oh man I don't envy the work. I just dug a large juniper that's right at my limit and it took some serious work to get that out and intact. Pictures for sure if you get the beast out.

Yes I will take a before and a few shots during the work. This is my largest dig so far and it will present a challenge for me. I am in pretty good shape for my age and retired so I can take my time and have a couple of beers as I work on it

Grimmy