Procumbens Critique

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We have a member tree critique coming up at the Bonsai Society of Portland next month. I rewired my juniper this weekend in preparation for the event. This tree was critiqued by club member and bonsai champion, Scott Elser, back in November so this is a great opportunity to get an update. I thought I would post some photos here to see if I can get some last minute suggestions from you Nuts before I bring it back in. 😀
tempImageQQO1FW.pngThis was taken yesterday after I finished most of the wiring. I still need to do some more fine detail with 1mm. I think the sedums need to go but they are flowering right now so I'll leave them until next weekend.
 

rockm

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I'd lose the jin completely, or shorten it dramatically to a half inch "snag." It's distracting and TBH, kind of boring. It takes away from what is otherwise a very nice tree. A short jin, that looks "smashed" and has accompanying texture -- carved out center, jagged uneven edges on an inch-long stub would have more impact that that long, straight smooth limb...
 
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Scott Elsers critique. He said, “tighten up these pads, shorten the jin, and change the planting angle dammit!”
November 2021
 

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Messages
308
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487
Location
Portland, Oregon, United States of America
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9b
I'd lose the jin completely, or shorten it dramatically to a half inch "snag." It's distracting and TBH, kind of boring. It takes away from what is otherwise a very nice tree. A short jin, that looks "smashed" and has accompanying texture -- carved out center, jagged uneven edges on an inch-long stub would have more impact that that long, straight smooth limb...
Yes all of my jins look this way. I need some instruction in that department. I’m hoping Scott will take initiative at the event. I’ll be strategically leaving some tools in reach 😎
 

WNC Bonsai

Omono
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That one big long jin out front is the major problem. For one thing the bright white along with its length overpowers the rest of the tree. Second it is very straifght and angular whereas the rest of the tree has nice couves and movement. Finally, I liked the semi cascade version shown earlier.
 
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rockm

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Yes all of my jins look this way. I need some instruction in that department. I’m hoping Scott will take initiative at the event. I’ll be strategically leaving some tools in reach 😎
You need a dremel/foredom carver (you can try handtools like gouges, chisels too, but the smaller the tree, the more damage is possible). Dremel is best for small trees like this one. To get practice making jagged short jins, get a wooden dowel (diameter is up to you). Put a foot or length in a vice or clamp it down. Concentrate on the first few inches of one end. Use the dremel/drill to "burr" the smooth surface of the outer portion cutting uneven shallow channels in it with small bits, then take a brass wire brush and scrub to add more texture. You have to learn not remove too much of the wood to leave room to add more detail. After the surface work is done, learn how to hollow out the center about 1/4" in, then take try chipping back the edges in uneven pattern.

This takes time to get the hang of and it can be time-consuming, but it's not all that difficult.
 
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That one big long jin out front is the major problem. For one thong the bright white along with its length overpowers the rest of the treee. Second it is very straifght and angular whereas the rest of the tree has nice couves and movement. Finally, I liked the semi cascade version shown earlier.
This tree would definitely benefit from a bright white thong 😂
 
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You need a dremel/foredom carver (you can try handtools like gouges, chisels too, but the smaller the tree, the more damage is possible). Dremel is best for small trees like this one. To get practice making jagged short jins, get a wooden dowel (diameter is up to you). Put a foot or length in a vice or clamp it down. Concentrate on the first few inches of one end. Use the dremel/drill to "burr" the smooth surface of the outer portion cutting uneven shallow channels in it with small bits, then take a brass wire brush and scrub to add more texture. You have to learn not remove too much of the wood to leave room to add more detail. After the surface work is done, learn how to hollow out the center about 1/4" in, then take try chipping back the edges in uneven pattern.

This takes time to get the hang of and it can be time-consuming, but it's not all that difficult.
I have all those things! What bits are you liking?
 

rockm

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I have all those things! What bits are you liking?
I have used the burrs, bits etc. that came with the dremel. I bought a pack similar to the one below after using the originals for a while. FWIW, there are specialized bits sold among bonsai vendors. They can be a bit more useful, but the original and tungsten bits have served me pretty well.

 

rockm

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For bigger trees, you can use angle grinders as well. I invested in this tool a while ago--found it in a local woodworking retail shop. It's similar to other angle grinders people use for bonsai.

 

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Omono
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For something that small (in diameter) I am not sure you need the carving stuff. I usually just take my jin pliers and snap off an end and peel it back. If I want to give it a brush like appearance on the end I will use a branch cutter to snip through the ends and then use the jin pliers. As long as this piece is you can practice this several times and work your way back to the point where ypu are happy with how short it is. Bjorn has shown this techniques in several of his Youtube conifer videos.
 

Kadebe

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Yes all of my jins look this way. I need some instruction in that department. I’m hoping Scott will take initiative at the event. I’ll be strategically leaving some tools in reach 😎
You don't need a Dremel for little jins. Peeld the bark off, it looks more as a natural damage. Dremel is used for carving big pieces, and after that the finetuning comes with peeling the wood.

 

Shogun610

Masterpiece
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You could also wire that Jin , if still plyibile .. and shorten it , if not you would need to heat it up somehow to get the fibers. Also the height of the apex and surface area is not proportional to the width of the trunk. IMO I would have wired that up higher to make a more slender apex , to make more height and to also extend the pad separation for future development
 
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