grizzlywon
Shohin
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- USDA Zone
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Just a few questions?
What are your fav things to propagate and how do you do it?
For me it has been mostly maples these days.
Tridents and Japanese maples (arakawa and reg green).
I have had some good success with cuttings taken at the begining of Spring and also recently. I also took air layers at the begining of spring and also just started some. (I have a good friend who is the king of propagating and he swears this is one of the best times of year to do it. He says as fall approached, the tree will be sending loads of energy down to the roots and the air layers will work.) WARNING this is for our area, where we don't get really cold weather so we can take the air layers off in Nov and they will survive the winter. I guess a green house might work, but don't want to lead someone astray.
The way I do air layers (is how I learned from my friend) is to completely ring the bark and do at least 1-1.5" all the way around so the bark can't bridge the gap. (commit to it and don't look back) Use the gel rooting hormone and put it on the edge of the cut and about 1" above the cut (that is where the roots will come). Then take a plastic cup or container and cut it down one side and along the bottom and cut a hole in the bottom for the trunk and then some drain holes (cutting along the edge of the cut/bowl works best. Use wire to hold the cup together and fill with akadama or pumace or a mix. (if you cut some small holes at the top on each side of the split, you can lace the cup together) Also, wire the cup to the branch above the cup so it doesn't move up or down and won't spin and break off new roots. Water every day. A clear container is best as it will let you see roots when they appear. After they are about 1.5" long cut the wire and gently remove the cup.
Plant the tree in pure sifted akadama and put in the shade for about 2 months. (I've been keeping mine in mostly shade all summer but we have 110 degrees for a lot of our summer. Also when you transplant, wire the tree in the pot so it is secure. Not by the roots, but from the top of the new tree. The roots at this stage will be very tender and still white but they can and will keep the tree alive. (look at the Kyosuke Gun maple books. He removes them when they are tender like this as well.)
As far as cutting goes my best success this year has been with semi green wood on maples. Cut the very growing end off (last set or two of the tender green growth). Leave two sets of leaves on the cutting but cut them down to just a little 1" triangle or so. you just need about 2-4 small leaf parts left to collect sun. I wound about 1" of the cutting with a razor blade and dip it in the same gel rooting hormone. Then i put about 40 of these in a large Orchid pot full of pumice or akadama or a mix. Make sure to use a dibble to make a hole for the cutting and put it about 2" into the mix. Then when I can't fit any more in, I water it good and cover the cuttings with a clear plastic cover. (upside down 1 gal ice cream containers work really well.) Water everyday and put in mostly shade. Mine get about 2-4 hours of sun a day. I have had good success with Jap maples, tridents, crepe myrtles, fig, olive and a few others.
For some reason i have had very poor luck with cork seju elms and this technique. One out of two Air layers worked, but cuttings have been a problem. What do you guys do for this species?
If you guys would add your successful techniques to this thread I think it would be great for all to read.
P.S. on a side note my buddy was all excited this week as he visited a nursery who is getting black pines to air layer. That's his new challenge. I'll let you know. Hint, It's the same technique as above but with moss.
What are your fav things to propagate and how do you do it?
For me it has been mostly maples these days.
Tridents and Japanese maples (arakawa and reg green).
I have had some good success with cuttings taken at the begining of Spring and also recently. I also took air layers at the begining of spring and also just started some. (I have a good friend who is the king of propagating and he swears this is one of the best times of year to do it. He says as fall approached, the tree will be sending loads of energy down to the roots and the air layers will work.) WARNING this is for our area, where we don't get really cold weather so we can take the air layers off in Nov and they will survive the winter. I guess a green house might work, but don't want to lead someone astray.
The way I do air layers (is how I learned from my friend) is to completely ring the bark and do at least 1-1.5" all the way around so the bark can't bridge the gap. (commit to it and don't look back) Use the gel rooting hormone and put it on the edge of the cut and about 1" above the cut (that is where the roots will come). Then take a plastic cup or container and cut it down one side and along the bottom and cut a hole in the bottom for the trunk and then some drain holes (cutting along the edge of the cut/bowl works best. Use wire to hold the cup together and fill with akadama or pumace or a mix. (if you cut some small holes at the top on each side of the split, you can lace the cup together) Also, wire the cup to the branch above the cup so it doesn't move up or down and won't spin and break off new roots. Water every day. A clear container is best as it will let you see roots when they appear. After they are about 1.5" long cut the wire and gently remove the cup.
Plant the tree in pure sifted akadama and put in the shade for about 2 months. (I've been keeping mine in mostly shade all summer but we have 110 degrees for a lot of our summer. Also when you transplant, wire the tree in the pot so it is secure. Not by the roots, but from the top of the new tree. The roots at this stage will be very tender and still white but they can and will keep the tree alive. (look at the Kyosuke Gun maple books. He removes them when they are tender like this as well.)
As far as cutting goes my best success this year has been with semi green wood on maples. Cut the very growing end off (last set or two of the tender green growth). Leave two sets of leaves on the cutting but cut them down to just a little 1" triangle or so. you just need about 2-4 small leaf parts left to collect sun. I wound about 1" of the cutting with a razor blade and dip it in the same gel rooting hormone. Then i put about 40 of these in a large Orchid pot full of pumice or akadama or a mix. Make sure to use a dibble to make a hole for the cutting and put it about 2" into the mix. Then when I can't fit any more in, I water it good and cover the cuttings with a clear plastic cover. (upside down 1 gal ice cream containers work really well.) Water everyday and put in mostly shade. Mine get about 2-4 hours of sun a day. I have had good success with Jap maples, tridents, crepe myrtles, fig, olive and a few others.
For some reason i have had very poor luck with cork seju elms and this technique. One out of two Air layers worked, but cuttings have been a problem. What do you guys do for this species?
If you guys would add your successful techniques to this thread I think it would be great for all to read.
P.S. on a side note my buddy was all excited this week as he visited a nursery who is getting black pines to air layer. That's his new challenge. I'll let you know. Hint, It's the same technique as above but with moss.