Prunus Incisa help

[Trueblackpercula]

I don't think following the "mume vs incisa" advice is that significant. I do things "out of season" to all my trees all the time. That sounds more cavalier than it is because I do put a lot of thought into things and often adjust accordingly. Or, honestly, sometimes I just need to dare the tree to live so I can recover some space :{

I guess what strikes me is I never equated "wiring" with "trunk spliting". I'm not sure many would...but I don't see mention of trunk splitting in your schedule I doubt many hobbiests even own a trunk splitter...though that may be a bad assumption on my part??

...but what's done is done...let the fun begin! I am very curious how this will turn out...please keep us posted!

From my experience, any problems won't really set in until the heat does. Even then, I think the biggest danger is winter. Cherries are known for bark splitting from frost/cold and yours will be unlikely to have healed well by then. You might plan on rewrapping the trunk before winter. 1) to see how it is doing and 2) to keep some extra protection from drying winds and cold until it heals well. You might look into a trunk wrap that breathes well for the winter. I'd let the top run as wild as it can this year as well.

Anyway...those would be my near term concerns. Down the road there may be some scarring issues to deal with...but deal with those when the time comes

Thanks for the great advice as I really do appreciate it.
I used the 3m double sided electrical tape that is very thick as you can see from the picture over a thick layer of raffia and it just may be enough insulation or protection for the winter months.

I used the raffia over the cut areas I split first and than the 3m tape to seal the wounds to prevent infection and I hope it works or the tree will likely suffer as stated in the Sumer or winter months.
But I will see how’s she’s healed before frost sets in but that will require removing the wire the tape and the raffia so I don’t know if that’s possible. But thank you the advice. I may just wrap the tree for the winter where all the work was done just to be safe with insulation. The tape is water proof and extremely flexible and only sticks to its self but I must say thinking about it now the raffia was soaked in water first to give it better flexibility and that the tape added. So I hope the tree absorbs the moister and doesn’t rot the areas I split. We shall see I think she will be fine.

As for the top I really appreciate the advice and will let it grow wild this season as that was not something I had thought about until you mentioned it
I didn’t even think twice about the scares as I thought it would just add character to the tree and in time would just blend.
The tree has only been in training since July of last year when I got it from nursery stock so we shall see in a few years how she looks.
I am in the infant stage with this tree as she has a long way to go but I am doing so serious technics learned not from experience but for YouTube and reading like a mad man. I may have over stepped on this one but we all learn from experience I sure did this time around.
But I must say I do like they way it looks as I feel it looks much better than when I first started and I put a lot of thought into the shape and style of the tree based of of everything I could possibly find on the internet.
But yes I am so looking forward to seeing how it develops/heals as well and will be glade to share the good the bad and the ugly.

Who knows maybe I started something here that others will learn from. I am sure either way they will good or bad
I really have ignored all the stuff about infection and treatments for pest even though I know it’s just a matter of time before I start learning about that part of the art of bonsai.
Lastly I must say that I don’t see what all the rave is about akadama Punic and lava rock as I think it sucks. I will tell you why, first off the drainage is immediate so I don’t know how the tree will intake nutrients as someone needs to explain that part to me. And secondly it doesn’t look natural in the pot to me as it just looks like a bunch of small different colored rocks.

So now I will be covering it with spagnium moss so that the tree looks better to me eyes. Unless someone tells me other wise.
But going to hold off until the weather warms up a bit as I know it adds value for water retention. I think next years repotting will have a different soil mix but we shall see.

thanks again I greatly appreciate the advice and guidance
Michael

 

[LittleDingus]

I used the raffia over the cut areas I split first and than the 3m tape to seal the wounds to prevent infection and I hope it works or the tree will likely suffer as stated in the Sumer or winter months.

I'll be honest, the electrical tape worries me. It doesn't breath. Most trunk wraps are porous so that moisture isn't trapped against the trunk. Keep in mind that the moisture can come from the tree itself...the cambium layer. The non-porous wraps I'm aware of are not meant to wrap tight around the trunk but are meant to keep deer and/or the lawn trimmer from stripping bark. Those that I'm aware of that are meant to wrap tight are able to breath.

Lastly I must say that I don’t see what all the rave is about akadama Punic and lava rock as I think it sucks. I will tell you why, first off the drainage is immediate so I don’t know how the tree will intake nutrients as someone needs to explain that part to me. And secondly it doesn’t look natural in the pot to me as it just looks like a bunch of small different colored rocks.

I hear ya...I'm of the same mind on how it looks. It's also too coarse for my tastes. BUT...there are reasons to use it...

Those that use tea bags are actually fertilizing with every watering. I top dress many of my trees with composted (non-smelly) manure or worm castings...so a little fertilizer at every watering. I also fertilize with chemical ferts every week or three. One thing to keep in mind: fertilizer is _not_ food...though we tend to talk about "feeding" our plants. It's really more analogous to vitamins and minerals. Roots can trap and absorb what the tree needs very quickly...fertilizer doesn't have to "rest" against the roots to be useful. In fact, if you're using chemical ferts, the salts accumulating next to the roots can be more harmful that helpful.

So now I will be covering it with spagnium moss so that the tree looks better to me eyes. Unless someone tells me other wise.
But going to hold off until the weather warms up a bit as I know it adds value for water retention. I think next years repotting will have a different soil mix but we shall see.

Shred the sphagnum. Top it with a light dusting of composted manure. Grab some of your favorite moss that can grow in the conditions at the base of your tree (take a walk and harvest from what you find in a sunnier spot vs what grows in deep shade) and toss it on top Sphagnum on it's own will grow algae over time. Not harmful...but I find green sphagnum just as ugly as the rocks you're trying to cover. If you need pictures. to judge for yourself...let me know. It's too dark to take some now.

Be aware of how water runs off moss when you water so you water properly.

 

[LittleDingus]

On the scars...I agree they can add character even if cherry typically has smooth bark. My concern over the scars is how linear and unnatural they may turn out due to the use of the tool. Once the tree heals over well, you might find you'll want to "randomize" the scars some...or that you have some shari that might need a bit of carving to look less "touched by man".

I really wouldn't worry about that until a couple of years from now...

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Thanks again here is one place that gave me the idea about the tape although it’s not a incisa or a mume.
Michael

A juniper and some severe bending

Before I get in trouble for trying to push myself too hard, I actually did all this work at the beginning of November. Promise. You guys remember this tree? It’s from this post about a year a…

www.google.com

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

This tree better make it...all the way to Nattys one day. 14 pages for a stick in under a year is a heavily-invested thread. No pressure.

 

[Trueblackpercula]

This tree better make it...all the way to Nattys one day. 14 pages for a stick in under a year is a heavily-invested thread. No pressure.

Brian Your not kidding and now the pressure is on for a newbie like myself. I didn't realize the thread was already 14 pages long, but there is a lot of great information on it already so I have faith she will pull through. just think in a few years when she really starts to thicken up and show her true potential and we can look back and laugh about it.

I will say there are not many prunus incisa out there that i can find, so yes the pressure is sure on

Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

I just wanted to track progress here form when i got it till now

Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Shred the sphagnum. Top it with a light dusting of composted manure. Grab some of your favorite moss that can grow in the conditions at the base of your tree (take a walk and harvest from what you find in a sunnier spot vs what grows in deep shade) and toss it on top Sphagnum on it's own will grow algae over time. Not harmful...but I find green sphagnum just as ugly as the rocks you're trying to cover. If you need pictures. to judge for yourself...let me know. It's too dark to take some now.

yes please share the pictures would love to see them

 

[LittleDingus]

yes please share the pictures would love to see them

This is a willow leaf ficus I have documented in another thread...that part is not pertinent to this conversation



The soil around the geode is long strand sphagnum moss. The roots under the plastic are packed with sphagnum as well. Dried sphagnum is usually tan but most of mine is turning green! If you look closely at the plastic wrap, it has a green cast where there is sphagnum underneath it! I do keep my trees on the damp side

What I get growing on it is more of an algae than a moss I think. It's pretty slimy. Once it starts growing, the sphagnum stays green...or will turn black if the algae dies off...but my trees are usually dead long before then

It doesn't bother me on my "grow out" stuff, but I hate it on anything in an actual pot!

Your environment is different. You may get something different or nothing at all to grow on yours...especially if you water less frequently than me! But since you were complaining about the look of bonsai soil and were thinking about topping with sphagnum...I wanted to warn you it might be just as ugly!

You could always mulch with garden center mulch. I have shredded cypress mulch under many of my trees. I also use coconut coir chunks under many things.

Aesthetically, after a moss-scape, I prefer the chunky coir.



It's dark, it provides an evaporative barrier, and it's light enough not to damage bark. Most any mulch is going to hide the nebari though. If you're still developing, that can be a good thing. It you're showing off the tree, not so much.

 

[Trueblackpercula]

This is a willow leaf ficus I have documented in another thread...that part is not pertinent to this conversation

View attachment 369905 View attachment 369907

The soil around the geode is long strand sphagnum moss. The roots under the plastic are packed with sphagnum as well. Dried sphagnum is usually tan but most of mine is turning green! If you look closely at the plastic wrap, it has a green cast where there is sphagnum underneath it! I do keep my trees on the damp side

What I get growing on it is more of an algae than a moss I think. It's pretty slimy. Once it starts growing, the sphagnum stays green...or will turn black if the algae dies off...but my trees are usually dead long before then

It doesn't bother me on my "grow out" stuff, but I hate it on anything in an actual pot!

Your environment is different. You may get something different or nothing at all to grow on yours...especially if you water less frequently than me! But since you were complaining about the look of bonsai soil and were thinking about topping with sphagnum...I wanted to warn you it might be just as ugly!

You could always mulch with garden center mulch. I have shredded cypress mulch under many of my trees. I also use coconut coir chunks under many things.

Aesthetically, after a moss-scape, I prefer the chunky coir.

View attachment 369915

It's dark, it provides an evaporative barrier, and it's light enough not to damage bark. Most any mulch is going to hide the nebari though. If you're still developing, that can be a good thing. It you're showing off the tree, not so much.

Once again thank you. I took a picture of my smaller mume pot and your are 100% correct as I do see algae growing on the moss I planted. But I think in a few more months the green moss will win over the algae. So maybe this weekend I will do the same to my incisa pot as I just hate the way the akadama looks and it’s already starting to break down so I doubt it will last more than a year. Next time I will use more pumic less akadama and more lava rock.
but all in all the tree is holding and looks very healthy to me this morning.
Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Just a quick update.
The tree is doing amazing better than I could have hoped for.
Just wanted to share its fruit as they are turning very dark a shade of plum.
Michael

 

[leatherback]

What do they taste like?

 

[Trueblackpercula]

What do they taste like?

I have no idea I didn’t think it was edible. But sure looks tempting.
Michael

 

[leatherback]

I didn’t think it was edible

Well, only one way t find out, now isn't there?

Let us know whether they are edible.
Or not..

 

[Lutonian]

Well, only one way t find out, now isn't there?

Let us know whether they are edible.
Or not..

I have a shohin one in development, I have eaten the cherries once, there all skin & stone and full of tannins but wont kill you.

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Well I decided to try one and they are very juicy but sour. I saved the pit to see if it will grow for later use.
Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

It’s been almost a month and the tree has taken extremely well to all the abuse I put her through. I am even getting new shots and one in a perfect position for a new pad. so I know she’s doing well.
michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Quick note, wanted to share that I start d using organic time release fertilizer and in a short time the leaves and tree look fantastic. Hope it works for you. Take a look at the color of the leaves and how healthy they are.
She’s doing great
Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Went on a long weekend vacation to come home to this. It’s amazing because the tree was wrapped with two layers of raffia and black 3m tape and still a shot grew right through it with now sun light penetration at all. I also noticed the tree is thickened as the tape is splitting towards the top of the tree.
I toyed around in my head of removing the tape and wire completely but felt I needed to leave it until next season. So that’s what I am going to do as I think that with all the wrappings and wire it’s putting pressure on the tree and she’s pushing back and growing
This has been a learning experience for me as I attribute this amazing growth to too much fertilizer and it’s organic. I am going to cut back on it starting July 1st and will resume September 1st as I feel the tree is extremely healthy and happy at this time.
I will be letting that new growth grow to assist in thickening and will be a sacrifice in the future

Michael

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Holy crap flower buds already for next years show.
Michael