Prunus Mume Propagation by Hardwood Cuttings During Early Winter - The Peter Adams Method

[エドガー]

Ah, I didn't know.

When akadama breaks down and compacts after some years, are its' particles similar to organically formed ground clay? This is something I've always wondered... as broken down compacted akadama looks very similar to ground clay.

 

[River's Edge]

Ah, I didn't know.

When akadama breaks down and compacts after some years, are its' particles similar to organically formed ground clay? This is something I've always wondered... as broken down compacted akadama looks very similar to ground clay.

When the particles become that small I suspect they would look similar to the naked eye. I cannot say what differences may be noted with microscope, never bothered to check it out. Have to leave that discussion to the scientific community

 

[bwaynef]

I’m not tracking percentages or anything. It looks like 50-60% have rooted.

 

[penumbra]

Seeing those roots escaping is one of the happiest times in a propagator's life.

 

[River's Edge]

I’m not tracking percentages or anything. It looks like 50-60% have rooted.

Well done. Takes consistent care to get those results.

 

[Trueblackpercula]

so I read the entire thread multiple times to understand what to do, but still have a few questions I didn’t see anyone ask. I have a prunus mume and got so really good Material to work with from this years growth.
1) the cuttings get placed in a zip lock bag with sand and spagnium moss, but are they place vertical or horizontally?
2) once placed in the refrigerator am I adding water to the sealed bag as it drys out or do I add water only once until I remove them I end of January ?
3) once there are removed and hopefully develop calcification on the ends use rooting powder and plant in pumic and akadama or just fine pumic

Sorry for all the questions
Michael

I picked this up on Amazon for this project. Do I just dip the end in it or do I add water and let it soak for while?

 

[River's Edge]

1) the cuttings get placed in a zip lock bag with sand and spagnium moss, but are they place vertical or horizontally?

1. While refrigerated the orientation is not important. For convenience sake I bundle them and place horizontally. Fits on a smaller shallower shelf with ease in the fridge. You can also use damp paper towels.
2. Keep damp not wet. I check them bi-weekly.
3. Yes and when planting the orientation becomes important. They must be planted in an upright vertical position. The sealant I use is green for the top cut of the cutting, the rooting hormone I use is purple. Helps to keep the orientation straight. If in doubt check the direction of the buds and examine both ends to see either a sealed top cut or apical bud intact on the top of the cutting. You can also angle cut the bottom to differentiate and keep orientation easier.
When I create the cuttings, I bundle them in the same orientation right from the outset, it simplifies things.
I am not familiar with the specific product you have shown, I would follow the directions on the label or print material in the package. Perhaps someone who has used that specific product can assist you.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

so I read the entire thread multiple times to understand what to do, but still have a few questions I didn’t see anyone ask. I have a prunus mume and got so really good Material to work with from this years growth.
1) the cuttings get placed in a zip lock bag with sand and spagnium moss, but are they place vertical or horizontally?
2) once placed in the refrigerator am I adding water to the sealed bag as it drys out or do I add water only once until I remove them I end of January ?
3) once there are removed and hopefully develop calcification on the ends use rooting powder and plant in pumic and akadama or just fine pumic

Sorry for all the questions
Michael

I picked this up on Amazon for this project. Do I just dip the end in it or do I add water and let it soak for while?

Yikes - The label says 98% pure "Indole-3-Buteric Acid" That is a concentrated as it gets. DO NOT JUST DIP INTO THIS. At excess concentration hormones can inhibit root growth. this is too concentrated. You have more hormone there than a 1000 acre propagation nursery could use in 5 years.

If I were to use this, I would take 0.1 gram, which is just a tiny pinch, I would then dilute that to one liter, this is still 100 times too concentrated. I would then take 10 milliliters, and then dilute that to 1 liter. That second dilution would be about the right strength.

If you can, return this product to the vendor. If not, store it dry, in the refrigerator, and read up on hormones until you can find exact use for this. In the refrigerator it will last "indefinitely", at room temperature it will break down over time, in a couple years will be useless. Indole-3-buteric Acid is used to break apical dominance, and cause proliferation of cells in tissue culture, a key step in meristematic tissue culture. In orchid seedlings it will cause the formation of multiple leaders, in order to allow dividing the plant up into many pieces, a way to force slow to divide orchids into making more. It can cause root formation or differentiation of callus into roots and vegetative growth, but as a rooting hormone in is usually used in LOW concentration in combination with another hormone, but I forget which.

I recommend going out and buying a consumer grade ROOTING HORMONE, already to use. For example in USA there is a brand called "Dip & Grow", that is ready to use, just follow label directions. Every marijuana grow shop will have 3 or more excellent, pre-mixed, ready to use rooting hormones and they will be less than $20. Find someone running a tissue culture lab and gift them the 98% pure Indole-3-buteric acid.

 

[penumbra]

Good catch Leo. That is a crazy strong hormone. They shouldn't even sell that on the open market. I wouldn't even want that in my house.

 

[hinmo24t]

Well done. Takes consistent care to get those results.

true story. from collecting saplings or seeds, cuttings, and then caring for them every day, multiple times, it takes some effort

i had to get out of bed last night and roll my cart under breezeway that i forgot about

 

[Trueblackpercula]

Yikes - The label says 98% pure "Indole-3-Buteric Acid" That is a concentrated as it gets. DO NOT JUST DIP INTO THIS. At excess concentration hormones can inhibit root growth. this is too concentrated. You have more hormone there than a 1000 acre propagation nursery could use in 5 years.

If I were to use this, I would take 0.1 gram, which is just a tiny pinch, I would then dilute that to one liter, this is still 100 times too concentrated. I would then take 10 milliliters, and then dilute that to 1 liter. That second dilution would be about the right strength.

If you can, return this product to the vendor. If not, store it dry, in the refrigerator, and read up on hormones until you can find exact use for this. In the refrigerator it will last "indefinitely", at room temperature it will break down over time, in a couple years will be useless. Indole-3-buteric Acid is used to break apical dominance, and cause proliferation of cells in tissue culture, a key step in meristematic tissue culture. In orchid seedlings it will cause the formation of multiple leaders, in order to allow dividing the plant up into many pieces, a way to force slow to divide orchids into making more. It can cause root formation or differentiation of callus into roots and vegetative growth, but as a rooting hormone in is usually used in LOW concentration in combination with another hormone, but I forget which.

I recommend going out and buying a consumer grade ROOTING HORMONE, already to use. For example in USA there is a brand called "Dip & Grow", that is ready to use, just follow label directions. Every marijuana grow shop will have 3 or more excellent, pre-mixed, ready to use rooting hormones and they will be less than $20. Find someone running a tissue culture lab and gift them the 98% pure Indole-3-buteric acid.

Well thank you so much if anyone needs it send me a DM and I will send it to you for free. I will purchase the dip and go as requested. Wow your a life saver.
michael

 

[Pitoon]

FWIW, I use Hormex rooting hormone. They have different concentrated powders, just pick the right one for the right plant cutting. I recently did some mume cuttings and used #16 rooting powder. Those cuttings are still alive so far after a couple of weeks after being taken.

 

[badatusernames]

FWIW, I use Hormex rooting hormone. They have different concentrated powders, just pick the right one for the right plant cutting. I recently did some mume cuttings and used #16 rooting powder. Those cuttings are still alive so far after a couple of weeks after being taken.

is there a reason to prefer powder over gel? i use clonex, basically only because i saw bjorn use it in a video. seems to work but i’ve been curious about the powder.

 

[Pitoon]

is there a reason to prefer powder over gel? i use clonex, basically only because i saw bjorn use it in a video. seems to work but i’ve been curious about the powder.

I have never used Clonex gel type before. I don't know what their % of IBA is in the gel.

Depending on the plant sometimes you need a higher %, sometimes you need a lower %. That's why I like/use Hormex. There is another type of rooting hormone, Dip and grow? It's concentrated and you dilute it with water and dip the cuttings in for a specific amount of time. But then you have to throw away the mix you created. It seems wasteful for me to throw away something that is still usable.....that's just me though.

 

[badatusernames]

I have never used Clonex gel type before. I don't know what their % of IBA is in the gel.

Depending on the plant sometimes you need a higher %, sometimes you need a lower %. That's why I like/use Hormex. There is another type of rooting hormone, Dip and grow? It's concentrated and you dilute it with water and dip the cuttings in for a specific amount of time. But then you have to throw away the mix you created. It seems wasteful for me to throw away something that is still usable.....that's just me though.

That makes sense, another level of control!

 

[River's Edge]

I have never used Clonex gel type before. I don't know what their % of IBA is in the gel.

• Clonex Green: 1.5 g/L IBA – herbaceous and softwood cuttings
• Clonex Purple: 3.0 g/L IBA – semi-hardwood cuttings
• Clonex Red: 8.0g/L IBA – hardwood cuttings

I use the Clonex purple for Prunus Mume cuttings in the latest batch with success!

 

[Pitoon]

• Clonex Green: 1.5 g/L IBA – herbaceous and softwood cuttings
• Clonex Purple: 3.0 g/L IBA – semi-hardwood cuttings
• Clonex Red: 8.0g/L IBA – hardwood cuttings

I use the Clonex purple for Prunus Mume cuttings in the latest batch with success!

Wow i didn't know they made different types. I started with powder and always used powder. I may give it a try when my hormex runs out.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[River's Edge]

Wow i didn't know they made different types. I started with powder and always used powder. I may give it a try when my hormex runs out.

Thanks for sharing.

I have used a number of different products and agree that one has to pay attention to the details for best results. The tips provided for best application seem to make a difference. For example with some powders, mixing a stiff paste and applying directly to the cut rather than just dipping in powder. Allowing a gel to dry on the cut for a period of time before planting assist in uptake to the cells before possible dilution with moisture in the planting soil. Also avoids removal of most of the product when planting. inserting the cutting stem in a hole provided or alongside a piece of wire or chopstick can help prevent damage to the cutting on insertion. Others have mentioned the matching of IBA strength for the species and cutting type, just another example of variables that contribute to the outcome. We are fortunate that a lot of research has gone into agriculture and has crossover applications for Bonsai.

 

[Pitoon]

So how did everyone's cuttings fair this year?

 

[Trueblackpercula]

I will let you know once I make them as my tree still has leaves on it. Waiting until November as my zone is still in the high 70s low 80s
Michael