Prunus Yoshino Wiring

[logjam]

Hi Everyone!

I just received this Cherry Blossom sapling and am so excited for it. I don’t have a ton of experience with flowering trees just yet, and want to make sure I am not putting too much stress on this tree with the wiring I am doing. Will attach an image

Also any general advice for this tree is MUCH appreciated!

 

[River's Edge]

Hi Everyone!

I just received this Cherry Blossom sapling and am so excited for it. I don’t have a ton of experience with flowering trees just yet, and want to make sure I am not putting too much stress on this tree with the wiring I am doing. Will attach an image

Also any general advice for this tree is MUCH appreciated!

The wire is anchored incorrectly and thus will distribute the pressure poorly. That type of anchor will also cut off the circulation and scar your trunk quickly. The proper way to anchor the wire is to place it into the soil several inches on an angle away from the trunk to begin the wiring. You have not noted your location so it is difficult to know what season it is in your location. Based on the picture I believe you have applied the wire out of season as well.
From the picture and the roots escaping above ground and below ground it would appear that the most effective way to begin would be to repot the sapling at an angle and consider wiring later after recovery and during the growing season.
Just a few quick comments.

 

[logjam]

Thank you!! I took the wire off and will repot I’m in NYC things are starting to warm up. What season do you recommend for wiring?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

You should be good to wire once the buds begin to push. However this is also the time buds can be broken off, so one must be careful. The wire size should be at least 1/2 the size of the tree diameter to get a decent bend, vs a curve. Wiring takes practice.

Alternatively, and highly recommend this for the first time, repot on a slant as @River's Edge mentioned, wait for the tree to fully leaf off, then prune off the trunk above a branch that is going off on a sharp angle / a pleasing direction.

Once the new branch creates branchlets, do the same thing…. Repeat over time. This is creating a structure by clip and grow. Do the same for the branchlets coming off the main trunk. It will take a bit more time, but this procedure will create a markedly better bonsai over time. If you don’t want to wait, use wire for the structure.

The tree ought to be repotted on an angle now.. Would use the next size container. Looks like a 2” maybe, now so use a 3” also called a 4” same style container. Match the media with the media in use.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[logjam]

Thanks for the tips!! You guys gave me all the info I needed, really appreciate it going to repot and just let it grow it leaves for now

 

[Kievnstavick]

For future advice:

When creating bends on a trunk with a sapling, You'll want to consider the size of the final tree. This will dictate how exaggerated you will need to bend the truck so as to not have the effect disappear with time.

Additionally, you'll want the bend/slant to start from the very beginning. This means either at the soil level or just below (Starting at the root flare is the goal). The way this sapling is now simply looks like a drooping tree or something fell on it due to the straightness of the trunk at the soil line.

Here are some examples to give you something to think about. Do keep in mind that I am still learning about proper wiring technique (Looking at this images, I see areas that I could have done better). The intent of the images is to consider the shape of the sapling rather then how the wire is applied.

With this sapling, how big of a tree do you think this could get?


Honestly, not much bigger then it currently is now. The tightness of the bends prevents some areas from growing thicker without creating a weird knot of wood at that location.

Next, consider these flowering cherries of mine. Taking a look at how the bend and curves are, how much bigger can this sapling get and not lose the shape it has?


Probably 4 or 5 times the width it is now before the truck becomes just a straight line again. I am aiming for an informal upright with some movement. If my goal was to have a more wild looking tree (style not origin), I would have placed large sweeping bends in it.

Take a look through the other photos attached to this message and put some thought into how big the sapling can get before it either loses the shape or a bend closes up (creating an unsightly wood knot).

 

[SeanS]

For future advice:

When creating bends on a trunk with a sapling, You'll want to consider the size of the final tree. This will dictate how exaggerated you will need to bend the truck so as to not have the effect disappear with time.

Additionally, you'll want the bend/slant to start from the very beginning. This means either at the soil level or just below (Starting at the root flare is the goal). The way this sapling is now simply looks like a drooping tree or something fell on it due to the straightness of the trunk at the soil line.

Here are some examples to give you something to think about. Do keep in mind that I am still learning about proper wiring technique (Looking at this images, I see areas that I could have done better). The intent of the images is to consider the shape of the sapling rather then how the wire is applied.

With this sapling, how big of a tree do you think this could get?
View attachment 584816

Honestly, not much bigger then it currently is now. The tightness of the bends prevents some areas from growing thicker without creating a weird knot of wood at that location.

Next, consider these flowering cherries of mine. Taking a look at how the bend and curves are, how much bigger can this sapling get and not lose the shape it has?
View attachment 584819

Probably 4 or 5 times the width it is now before the truck becomes just a straight line again. I am aiming for an informal upright with some movement. If my goal was to have a more wild looking tree (style not origin), I would have placed large sweeping bends in it.

Take a look through the other photos attached to this message and put some thought into how big the sapling can get before it either loses the shape or a bend closes up (creating an unsightly wood knot).

Great advice! When I’m bending seedlings or small plants I dump any soil above the roots out of the pot before I wire and subsequently bend them I order to get the movement starting right above the root ball.
Not doing so and only bending above the current soil level creates the risk that one day when you start repotting and exposing more of the trunk you’ll end up with a dead straight section of trunk below the initial movement.