Quercus lobata with few fine roots collected

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Well 2 weeks ago I collected a California valley oak that was on the side of the road growing in a pile of decomposing pine bark. When collected I pretty much just brushed the decomposing bark out of the way, being as careful as possible not to disturb the fine roots. I went down about 2 feet before I severed the tap root. In the end I was able to save 30-40 fine white colored roots. From ground level to the top of the tree it's probably 30 inches tall and about 18 inches wide, with about a 2 inch thick trunk. There was about 30 or so fully formed leaves with about 50 or so buds that were swollen and ready to pop.

OK with all that said, I planted the tree into a 5 gallon bucket with a few dozen 1/8 holes drilled along the bottom of the bucket. I watered the piss out of it till the water ran clear. I decided to get a 50 gallon clear trash bag, and placed it over the tree, then taped it to the bucket. I popped multiple dine size holes in the bag, allowing for a little ventilation, but not so much that condensation still forms on the inside of the bag. I noticed that nearly all of the buds have pushed leaves, and a few of them have produced 5 or 6 leaves in the past week


Have any of you used a garbage bag as a ghetto greenhouse? Did you do so in efforts to offset the lack of an extensive root system?

Case
 

aml1014

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I've done it several time and it almost always gives good resluts. I've never actually done a side by side comparison which is impossible since all collected trees are different, but I've noticed a much higher success rate using the bag method.

Aaron
 
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H
I did this method with quercus agrifolia--can't say whether it made a different or not as I have nothing to compare to. Look up the "sweating" method. Tony Tickle made a post about it awhile back:
https://yamadori.co.uk/2016/01/04/improving-the-success-rate-of-yamadori/


Hmm I wonder why this person decided to use black bags. I would assume that it would bake the poor trees, but if they've been doing it for 10 years I guess it works.
I wonder why it's critical to not have leaves touch the bag? Gets too hot? Allows for mold go grow?

From the sounds of it, I guess I should consider removing the bag due to the fact that the tree has pushed so many leaves; even if I only remove the bag long enough to inspect the progress.

I guess I should start sifting through the mounds of information and decide on a fertilizer, and potency to use.


Once again, thanks everybody!

Case
 

Potawatomi13

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If tree survives this year would highly getting into decent Bonsai soil. Bark tends to have roots grow into it and causes bad things when must be removed for repotting;).
 

rockm

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I would NOT use the sweating method on trees in the summer in the U.S.

Tony Tickle is in the U.K.

There is a Very big difference in climate for just about any area of the middle and southern U.S. A tree in a black bag in Virginia in the upper 80 t0 mid 90s temperatures of late spring and summer would be cooked in a day. The "secret" here for newly collected trees is bottom heat. Warm pots, like mid to upper 80s, stimulates root growth.That can mean allowing a few hours of morning sun on the pot and shade in the afternoon. There is no need for a bag.
 
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I would NOT use the sweating method on trees in the summer in the U.S.

Tony Tickle is in the U.K.

There is a Very big difference in climate for just about any area of the middle and southern U.S. A tree in a black bag in Virginia in the upper 80 t0 mid 90s temperatures of late spring and summer would be cooked in a day. The "secret" here for newly collected trees is bottom heat. Warm pots, like mid to upper 80s, stimulates root growth.That can mean allowing a few hours of morning sun on the pot and shade in the afternoon. There is no need for a bag.


I've been keeping the tree in the shade and I removed the bag about 3 days ago. Seems to be doing okay.
 
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