Quince Cuttings question ALL/ANY info appreciated :)

[GrimLore]

I have at leas a few different types of Quince and most likely have had "most" all varieties over the years.

Could you state what type of Quince, what time of year, what Zone you are in, and what type of cutting that you have had success with?

I have two right now that that I want the best chance of success with. I grow all the varieties the same but never really had requests for cuttings as these two are a bit unusual.

Any and all! Please share so I may calculate a plan

Thanks in Advance -

Grimmy

 

[milehigh_7]

Interested in learning so I'll follow and lurk. I love them so much.

 

[garywood]

Grimmy, Quince are probably the easiest plant we deal with to propagate. I've propagated thousands and they "root" anytime of the year if you have a little experience. The easiest is root cuttings when you dig or repot. The bigger the better. Semi-hardwod is next. After leaves harden off in late spring, any size cutting will root. Either under mist or tented in shade. I use Dip & Grow. Softwood is better under mist because of desiccation. Zone doesn't really matter it's the condition of the growth.

 

[garywood]

Also, suckers taken at the base is easy.

 

[CasAH]

I have a Double Texas Scarlett and an orange one from my parents yard. I am in Zone 5.

As garywood said, root cuttings have done best for me. I took hardwood cuttings and only a couple made it.

It is my first year trying cuttings, used perlite in a colander. Not tenting, no misting. Just watered in the morning if I remembered. I have about half of my total starts, root cuttings and hardwood cuttings.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

I agree with Gary. I have Toyonishiki and Cameo going in coarse vermiculite. My wife grows them regularly. Started in late summer or early fall. I started some Chinese Quince in late summer. Haven't checked for anything; looking for them to extend growth. I use no rooting hormone.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Also, suckers taken at the base is easy.

I am using strategic suckers...to add more nebari if in the right places. I've not repotted...will let you know how that works. Lol I think next spring is time. (For the nursery quince which...the name has slipped my mind at the moment.)

Not done cuttings...don't intend to...just cut and toss. Watching my total in head count...and it's not a rare variety.

 

[GrimLore]

Wow! Great responses all! I have some plans I will quote you all on after I get more! I think I did find a gem here though

Awesome crowd!

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

I tried a bunch of cutting this year from Brent's varieties to chojubai. I probably started them later than I should, and didn't have as much success (used rooting hormone, and a perlite/organic mix similar to what Brent uses).

Interestingly, it's very easy to just cut off suckers (which often have their own roots) to start your own trees. I tend to repot quince in the fall, and I did this on a few I repotted over the last couple of weeks. Saves a nice step, and often you get interesting movement from the twists in the roots.

 

[mcpesq817]

Anyone tent or otherwise cover their quince cuttings?

 

[Giga]

I don't know about cuttings but I repot my tree in fall. As in last week.

 

[GrimLore]

Semi-hardwod is next. After leaves harden off in late spring, any size cutting will root.

Thank you - in the past when I had many types my notes sucked. Semi-Hardwood is the real answer that can apply no matter where you live!

As garywood said, root cuttings have done best for me. I took hardwood cuttings and only a couple made it.

Have not had luck with Hardwood cuttings and honest was the reason for my post.

Started in late summer or early fall. I started some Chinese Quince in late summer.

By started is suspect you mean near end season, like when I do a Fall trimming, taking off excessive growth?

I tend to repot quince in the fall

I do Quince and a lot of other flowerings plants in Spring prior to bloom - they stress and bloom better here. Old Greenhouse growers shit for putting out things early in Full bloom.

I don't know about cuttings but I repot my tree in fall.

I only repot Trees in Fall after leaf drop and dormant. All else in Early Spring here as I stated above. It works for me.

Interestingly, it's very easy to just cut off suckers (which often have their own roots) to start your own trees. I tend to repot quince in the fall, and I did this on a few I repotted over the last couple of weeks. Saves a nice step, and often you get interesting movement from the twists in the roots.

I tried but left to much plant above the root suckers in late 2015, I have only let one grow out this season because the damn plant was so full it looked like a low branch until I thinned it. I will cut it out of there soon and try it as it is a solid foot long so the roots below must be stable.

Thank you all! I now have a plan and will report in with results down the road!

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

I do Quince and a lot of other flowerings plants in Spring prior to bloom - they stress and bloom better here. Old Greenhouse growers shit for putting out things early in Full bloom.

The only quince I lost was my first way back when I first started in the hobby and repotted in the spring. Could have just been user error, but I've had no issues in fall.

 

[CasAH]

Two pics.

First colander is 10" and root cuttings. Second is 6" and a mix of root and hardwood cuttings.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

@GrimLore Yes. Removed excess growth, but I also include growth that's two seasons old. I've done some thick cuttings too. I've stuck a cutting in pumice in the winter and have some growing fine right now (left outdoors all the time).

 

[GrimLore]

Yes. Removed excess growth, but I also include growth that's two seasons old. I've done some thick cuttings too. I've stuck a cutting in pumice in the winter and have some growing fine right now (left outdoors all the time).

If you and others are wondering why I am looking for detailed answers - I have some pictures of the Toyo either first or second bloom when I did not like it and did a lot of chopping in Fall and Spring. I did not think much of it, as I was more concerned getting the results I have taking it from a cutback to 5 branches to where it is today at 24. But what I noticed is one branch, the last to bloom had brilliant red flowers, no other colors one that branch.
Having said all that I remembered reading a description Brent has at Evergreen Gardenworks. Here are the quotes -

"2370 Chaenomeles 'Toyo Nishiki' Unusual form with pink and also white flowers on the same branch. This cultivar is a chimera and will sometimes throw a branch of red flowers only; a most exciting development when it happens."

and -

"Red flowering branches do not have any pink or white flowers and may be cutting propagated to produce plants that have red flowers only. Plants of these red only flowers are extremely rare."

I was amused when I saw it on that plant and enjoyed the last blooms for that season but recently "think" other then superior 0 internode growth it really may be something special. Had I remembered reading it I would have marked the branch which could be a few branches now but I will this Spring.

Grimmy

 

[thumblessprimate1]

A bit of side topic: I wonder if how often you in particular have been cutting back your quince is the reason for it's smaller leaves and short internodes. How much cutting back are you doing on it in a season?

 

[GrimLore]

A bit of side topic: I wonder if how often you in particular have been cutting back your quince is the reason for it's smaller leaves and short internodes. How much cutting back are you doing on it in a season?

I have not cut it during growing season, just in Fall after leaf starts to drop and Spring after flower drop.

First cut was late Fall when received, thought it was a clump, and it was very leggy. I cut back everything to 6 - 8 inches including 1/2 dozen or so suckers that where so heavy made the plant seem to be a fat clump. Originally they were roughly all 15 to 16 inches. At that point I also did a simple up pot to the 2 gallon Nursery pot, half filled with crushed slate.

Second cut was the following Spring after flowering. I did a lot of digging and removed all the suckers. I also took a short piece of 2 - 3 inches off of the 5 remaining branches.
It grew well but had offered little or no ramification, those branches grew a minimum of 8 inches, some 10. Gained 3 -5 smaller branches. but Internodes were very tight.

Third cut was last Fall, I chopped all of the 5 original branches in half leaving them 6 - 7 inches or so. It came back with an a additional 19 branches so I am looking at a minimum of 24 possibly more to cut back in a few weeks. I guess it was finally established.

I did another round of partial defoliation last week, third one this year and it is tossing more leaf out on areas I cleared out. It throws an occasional flower out randomly as most Quince do. The last one was at the base of the trunk which I found odd and that same spot now has a leaf cluster to be removed.

Fourth cut will be when I start seeing normal leaf drop. I will be cutting each branch old or new back to and into old wood as it seems to like that best.

Rigorous grower here but my medium and grow methods are different then most. Anyways that's what has worked for me some years ago and seems to again. I am currently working on other varieties and will expect the same growth as in the past, also adding a few more as they become available.

Here it is since I cut off a few hundred more leaf - about 30 percent last week, early for me(off center, etc...) but a fresh picture complete with morning dew a few minutes ago -



Another picture showing where new leaf is already repopulating old wood in 6 days -



It is 13 inches tall from the soil line, but the trunk is buried at least and inch along with the surface roots for Winter. 22 inches wide at he widest point.

Grimmy

 

[namnhi]

I agree with Gary. I have Toyonishiki and Cameo going in coarse vermiculite. My wife grows them regularly. Started in late summer or early fall. I started some Chinese Quince in late summer. Haven't checked for anything; looking for them to extend growth. I use no rooting hormone.

TP, I want to hear your success story on Chinese quince cutting. I will be doing quite a few of these next year. I like them as they don't seem to have any issues with the heat... will see if they will have nice fall colors.

 

[GrimLore]

I like them as they don't seem to have any issues with the heat... will see if they will have nice fall colors.

They, as most Quince handle heat good. What I see here is to much Sun and water really slow them down. I strongly recommend growing Quince in an area that gets no more then 2 hours of Eastern Morning sun on the Longest Day of the year where you live. As for water, mine are and always have been in a inorganic loam mix I make - I over pot them until they are established which can take two seasons. When I over pot I fill half or more of the pot with any type of stone keeping the roots and loam in the upper 3 to 4 inches of the pot allowing them to spread but the pot to still be stable. I let the top 2 inches dry of the 3 to 4 inches of soil between watering. The pain in the ass that results in 0 internodes is to never foliar water and never allow them to be rained on for more then a day. If they get rained on - shake it all off and put them under cover. If not you will find the water allowed to sit between the leaf and the branch will brown out leaving spaces that appear to be long internodes.... My quince no matter what type flourish with all of that extra attention. It may take a couple of years for them to establish but once they do it is all good.

Grimmy