Quince die back

hamme1rl

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Shown here is new growth tips on my quince in the first photo. In the second is what the tip will become in 2-3 days. This bonsai usually blooms prolifically, but did not this spring. Has anyone else experienced this and have ideas for a solution?

IMG_6023.JPGIMG_6025.JPG
 

0soyoung

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I don't know what the problem is, but here are some things you can try to try in order to figure out what it is. First, do you have any other plants nearby with similar troubles?
  • Water less often
    • could be a root anoxia
    • maybe your media doesn' drain well
    • underwatering will cause a general loss of turgidity (don't water until the first signs of 'droopy' new growth)
  • If you're keeping it out of shade, put it in a shadier place.
    • too much sun (I have troubles with potted quince in full sun, even though they do well in fs if in ground)
  • Are you spraying the foliage too, when you water? Water earlier in the day (so the heat and lower humidity of the afternoon will dry the leaves
    • fungal problem easily addressed by not watering the foliage
  • Mix 2 tablespoons 3% hydrogen peroxide (from the grocery/pharmacy) in a quart of water and spray it on the foliage every day
    • fungal/bacterial problem
    • peroxide releases reactive oxygen and becomes just plain ol' water (eco-friendly).
 

namnhi

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I suspect the die back is related to water and heat. At some point the quince got dry? The young shoot gets droopy and when hot and dry enough, the young shoot dies.
This is also my experience with quince. If they get dry out too much then the tip will die.
 

hamme1rl

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Thank you all. I am in central Michigan. Soil in this tall pot drains well. Repotted 1 year ago. Raised trunk/roots up 3" to create elevated nebari (photo). Tree in shade by 4 pm. Next to it Korean Hornbeam doing well (photo). Also nearby wild dug American Beech looks like this (same for the last 3 years: photo). Watered daily, not getting dry at all. Not watering foliage but quite a bit of rain this year. Sprayed Quince and Beech with Neem Oil a month ago. Will try peroxide as Osoyoung suggests. IMG_6028.JPG IMG_6027.JPG IMG_5857.JPG
 

JudyB

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They look very light green/yellow in the photo, as well as having the brown spotting issue. Someone recently posted this chart, so I'll repost it here. You should update your location into your profile, so we can give you advice based on your climate.
IMG_5729.jpg
 

hamme1rl

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They look very light green/yellow in the photo, as well as having the brown spotting issue. Someone recently posted this chart, so I'll repost it here. You should update your location into your profile, so we can give you advice based on your climate.
View attachment 154843
You may be referring to the Beech and not the Hornbeam. But, thank you for the deficiency guide. I've updated my profile too. I'm in 5b zone.
 

JudyB

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You are correct, the leaf size seems more hornbeamish than beech LOL. And the browning edges make them look serrated instead of smooth as well.
Beech are difficult trees, what is yours planted in, and what is your fert. regimen?
 

Stan Kengai

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When exactly did you repot? Japanese quince, in my climate, don't like to go more than one season without repotting. They present similar this with weak growth and difficulty getting enough water. It could also be too much sun. From my observations, quince with more round leaves can take more sun than those with narrow leaves, and yours are pretty narrow. Try limiting to only morning sun.
 

drew33998

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When exactly did you repot? Japanese quince, in my climate, don't like to go more than one season without repotting. They present similar this with weak growth and difficulty getting enough water. It could also be too much sun. From my observations, quince with more round leaves can take more sun than those with narrow leaves, and yours are pretty narrow. Try limiting to only morning sun.
Interesting. I have noticed that mine seem to struggle the year after repot. The next year they gain back some vigour. I have yet to do a second repotting on my 3 so i am not sure how long i will go. Right now i am at 3 years for one of them and its as healthy as its ever been for me. I am no quince expert by any means. Just sharing my results
 

iant

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The beech has fungus. The yellowing of the green color on the rest of the leaves may be a nutritional issue but the brown spots everywhere and the holes and the brown curling along the edges is fungus.
Not sure in the quince.
Ian
 

MichaelS

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Shown here is new growth tips on my quince in the first photo. In the second is what the tip will become in 2-3 days. This bonsai usually blooms prolifically, but did not this spring. Has anyone else experienced this and have ideas for a solution?

View attachment 154761View attachment 154760
It was caused by drying out at some stage. The quince that is. Nothing to do with fungus. The beech will have severe root issues caused by too much, not enough water or too much fertilizer. Either way the root tips are gone and there's nothing you can do to improve those leaves now. Certainly don't fertilize it! You have to slowly nurse it back to health. Beech hate repotting particularly when they have a meagre root system (the first ten years) Too big a pot will have a negative influence on them.
 
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hamme1rl

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When exactly did you repot? Japanese quince, in my climate, don't like to go more than one season without repotting. They present similar this with weak growth and difficulty getting enough water. It could also be too much sun. From my observations, quince with more round leaves can take more sun than those with narrow leaves, and yours are pretty narrow. Try limiting to only morning sun.
I repotted in May 2016. This plant has been repotted every 3 years. I have moved plant to receive only morning sun.
 

my nellie

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I suspect the die back is related to water and heat. At some point the quince got dry? The young shoot gets droopy and when hot and dry enough, the young shoot dies.
I lost mine one month ago for this reason... Symptoms similar to the OP
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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For what it is worth,
Flowering Quince, Chaenomeles, is susceptible to all the foliar diseases that roses are. The ''flagging'' of new growth is one of the common fungal maladies. Any rose dust or rose spray that covers the usual list of rose fungal issues will work.

Quince often don't show the symptoms as obviously as a hybrid tea rose, but they get the same fungi
 
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