ramification

[Skinnygoomba]

I am hoping to make some connections in regard to ramification.

For instance, if I trim a branch back on any of my trees, is this branch always going to bud back on the branch?

So far most of my pruning ventures have been in the way of cutting low branches, shoots that go straight up and cutting back branches that are getting excessively long. Is the natural response to this sort of pruning for the tree to thicken the foliage pads I'm forming by budding back into the areas behind where I've pruned?

I've been reading extensively, but it's all a bit abstract to me at this point.

 

[jk_lewis]

Not all trees are alike, so there's no one answer. Some do and some don't. Experimentation and experience are the best teachers.

 

[Skinnygoomba]

That's true, but I'm attempting to get a footing so more specific guidance is needed. Could you share your experience or general take-always on how to begin?

 

[Adair M]

Goomba,

What kind of trees are we talking about here?

 

[Skinnygoomba]

Tropical Cherry, Korean hornbeam and Natal plum.

 

[0soyoung]

... if I trim a branch back on any of my trees, is this branch always going to bud back on the branch?

As long as the tree is actively growing and it is before the solstice, the answer is 'yes'.

The reason I say 'before the solstice' is that some pines, such as P. strobus will not backbud (develop fascicular buds) if they are pruned in August or later in the (N hemi) growing season, but will if June or before. Look up 'Thymann Skoog' is you want to know more.

 

[0soyoung]

Tropical Cherry, Korean hornbeam and Natal plum.

There is no 'before the solstice' restriction on these - anytime (though you'll have to wait for the following spring if cut back in dormancy). Futhermore, you have the options of partial/full defoliation and/or pruning to induce back budding.

All of these trees have leaf buds covered by the base of the leaf petiole (axillary buds). Generally speaking that bud will stay dormant as long as the associated leaf remains in place (during the growing season). When released, the axillary bud will become a new shoot. This is what (full/partial) defoliation intends to do.

Further down the branch, below the foliage, there are also latent buds that are not visible. Activating these is what I refer to as 'back budding' and is accomplished easily by pruning these species. You could prune most, or even all, green (i.e, foliage) away from these species and they will backbud, even if you do it during dormancy (of course, the new shoots won't emerge until the following spring).

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Read this...pix help
http://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2014/02/22/building-ramification/

 

[Skinnygoomba]

Thanks fellas, I appreciate the help and that website is awesome!

Here is an update, I worked on the plum doing both a little wiring and some pruning. I wired into place first then followed by trimming branches that were out to five nodes down to two nodes. Also nipped off a few that were going the wrong direction entirely.

Here is the front

And here is the cherry, I've only done a slight bit of work on this. I feel I should mostly leave it alone until I get a feel for it. I like the shape at current.

Here is the Korean Hornbeam, have done very little on this outside of trimming some really leggy shoots.

 

[Skinnygoomba]

I trimmed my Korean Hornbeam in all areas were nodes were over 5 down to two (or 3 if needed to maintain the shape). Working toward a broom shape for that one.

 

[GrimLore]

In my area and ONLY during growing season prior to the heat blast that K Hornbeam can take a hard chop back to the first node and respond with new twiglets of branch and foliage quite fast. Timed correctly I can get 2 to 4 new sets a season per branch. That keeps the plant very "thick" for Winter presentation and keeps the leaf reduction in proportion. It strictly involves what you want to see and when. For my purpose I get to see a very nice presentation of foliage for 3 seasons and a "in my opinion" very full and aged Winter presentation. It is an art and depending on what YOU want(nobody else honest) you must follow "general" rules until you get your personal results. All specimens are different, all conditions are different and, by all means it is YOURS. Learn your trees(they are nice by the way) and how they react and "grow" with them - it takes a LOT of observation and notes as well as time

Grimmy

 

[Skinnygoomba]

In my area and ONLY during growing season prior to the heat blast that K Hornbeam can take a hard chop back to the first node and respond with new twiglets of branch and foliage quite fast. Timed correctly I can get 2 to 4 new sets a season per branch. That keeps the plant very "thick" for Winter presentation and keeps the leaf reduction in proportion. It strictly involves what you want to see and when. For my purpose I get to see a very nice presentation of foliage for 3 seasons and a "in my opinion" very full and aged Winter presentation. It is an art and depending on what YOU want(nobody else honest) you must follow "general" rules until you get your personal results. All specimens are different, all conditions are different and, by all means it is YOURS. Learn your trees(they are nice by the way) and how they react and "grow" with them - it takes a LOT of observation and notes as well as time

Grimmy

Thanks Grimmy! I am very excited for the spring, as I plan to deploy a little more aggressive pruning to build up the foliage pads. 2-4 sets sounds pretty good, I'm in NJ, so our weather is much the same.

I've been considering starting a notebook to keep close tabs on what I'm doing.

One the plum I have an area of the leaves that are turning light green, is this something to be concerned about? or am I over analyzing?