Raw material styling opinions needed for PNW mystery pine.

Jphipps

Mame
Messages
174
Reaction score
178
Location
Washington State
USDA Zone
8a
I purchased this Pine at a nursery and it was labeled "Mountain Pine". I live North of Seattle so I'm guessing it's a species from either the Olympics or Cascades. If anyone has an idea of species identification, that would be appreciated!

Looking to hear styling opinions from others on here. I have a couple ideas I'm visualizing but hearing new ideas and other feedback.

Also, what is the best time of year for wiring or large bends on this sort of Pine?

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • 20200417_191855.jpg
    20200417_191855.jpg
    275.4 KB · Views: 63
  • 20200417_191917.jpg
    20200417_191917.jpg
    246 KB · Views: 62
  • 20200417_191903.jpg
    20200417_191903.jpg
    166 KB · Views: 53

parhamr

Omono
Messages
1,767
Reaction score
6,216
Location
Portland, OR
USDA Zone
8
It’s a Pinus contorta. You’re in the range of the latifolia subspecies, but a ton of these in the nursery trade come from BLM land in Oregon. Did it have any other tags or labels?

It looks to me like the murrayana subspecies. In truth there aren’t always hard boundaries between these subspecies and they can look very similar.

Here’s one I’ve been working on since 2014: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/pinus-contorta-var-murrayana-progression.26770/

Upright, multi-trunk, naturalistic, and candelabra forms are very interesting on these trees. It’s also notable that in nature their branches tend to all exit very distinctly downward from the annual snow load.

Ryan Neil and Walter Pall can be great styling inspirations for mountain trees of this species.
 

Jphipps

Mame
Messages
174
Reaction score
178
Location
Washington State
USDA Zone
8a
Thank you for the great response @parhamr. I think you pretty much nailed it. I was leaning towards Contorta Latifolia but wasn't sure how to recognize the differences between the Contorta varieties.

The bending project in your thread looks awesome. This tree seems to have a more gray/rougher bark than the one in your photos. Difference in age maybe?

The branches definitely exit strongly downward off the trunk which I think looks amazing and I'd like to accentuate that in the design.

I just watched a video of Ryan Neil working on a literati contorta styling creating big bends. It was filmed in late spring and he seemed to indicate it was a touch early for that sort of work, but I'm really curious as to the safest time to wire and bend this tree.

Thanks!
 

Jphipps

Mame
Messages
174
Reaction score
178
Location
Washington State
USDA Zone
8a
Also, repot now/soon vs style this year? The tree appears very healthy but digging a bit in the soil it seems there is pretty of room for more roots to grow. I have no idea how long ago it was collected and potted up.
 

parhamr

Omono
Messages
1,767
Reaction score
6,216
Location
Portland, OR
USDA Zone
8
Also, repot now/soon vs style this year? The tree appears very healthy but digging a bit in the soil it seems there is pretty of room for more roots to grow. I have no idea how long ago it was collected and potted up.
The trees that are permit collected and legally sold at nurseries tend to be planted in natural soil. It’s often sandy clay loam. The tree will benefit greatly from standard bonsai mix: equal parts of screened akadama, pumice, and lava with particles smaller than 1/8" removed. You’ll want to look for nebari and root flare to determine a potting angle and front. Don’t do that until next year, though, maybe between late February and mid March. You’ll want to do that after the buds have started to swell but before they are extending into individual needles.

It’s slightly risky to wire right now as you’ll likely damage delicate new foliage or buds. Any damage at this point also risks infection with needle rust disease, which is very common in the Pacific Northwest. You can either wait for the June–July dormancy period or you can wire in the fall. This year’s wiring can introduce some nice bends, but you probably will want to save the biggest bends until you can see the base and have it well anchored into a training pot.

I’m sorry my answer is “wait” :D
 
Top Bottom