recent firing
- Thread starter Boondock
- Start date
Boondock
Shohin
Tachigi--these are all finished in the same oxide wash. The entire bisqued pot is dunked in a large pail containing the oxide wash. These pots got three dips, and they are a little darker than I like. I prefer the base clay (which is a light tan color) to show thru a little.
Thank you very much. The last one is my fave as well.
Thank you very much. The last one is my fave as well.
Boondock
Shohin
Boondock
Shohin
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Wow these pots get me motivated - they look really nice. The only thought I had on your "egg shell" pots is I think you want to try to de-emphasize the base. In other words make the pot like a smooth egg that someone has taken a bite out of; have only a flat bottom not a ring of clay around it or legs or a widened base. (I hope I am making sense)
These are really cool.
Boondock
Shohin
I understand what you mean. These "egg" or "crescent", (or as I call them "freestyle" pots) are my very first attempts to construct this sytle. (I made them for a friend who posts on this forum). I have learned alot about making pots like this.
The "second generation" of freestyle pots I am making now have several improvements. The walls of the pot, rise from the base almost vertically, rather than being inclined outward. And I have cut channels on the base, between the wiring holes so the pot will sit flat. These channels provide a place for the wire or twine, to be recessed.
I am also messing around with colored slips. The very dark pot (with the weird ring base) was made using a colored slip, bisqued fired, then an oxide wash was applied.
thank you all for the feedback (especially Tachigi, who I was able to chat with directly and share several other pictures in a chatroom. I am happy to say that my pottery "eye" has been increased thru his knowledge and advice. Many other people have influenced the direction I am heading)
The "second generation" of freestyle pots I am making now have several improvements. The walls of the pot, rise from the base almost vertically, rather than being inclined outward. And I have cut channels on the base, between the wiring holes so the pot will sit flat. These channels provide a place for the wire or twine, to be recessed.
I am also messing around with colored slips. The very dark pot (with the weird ring base) was made using a colored slip, bisqued fired, then an oxide wash was applied.
thank you all for the feedback (especially Tachigi, who I was able to chat with directly and share several other pictures in a chatroom. I am happy to say that my pottery "eye" has been increased thru his knowledge and advice. Many other people have influenced the direction I am heading)
Last edited:
Boondock
Shohin
darrellw
Mame
Hi Boondock,
Looks nice! If you don't mind sharing, how did you texture the exterior?
-Darrell
Boondock
Shohin
onthefringe
Sapling
Wow, I really like the last one you have a photo of. It makes me think of a giant toad stool like something youd find on an old rotted trunk. Very cool pot!!!!!!!
Mooseman
Seedling
Very nice pots Boondock. Especialy the right hand one in the first post and the last one above. I love the texture too. It inspires me to pursuade my sister in law to help me make some. She is a ceramic artist but doesn't tend to make pots at all, (at the moment), she is more into one-off art pieces and has exhibited in galleries. Her specialism is raku, and she also makes kiln fired glass sculptures. I have had a go at raku, but next time I'd love to try a few simple pots, especially with the range of raku glazes she has in stock.
Boondock
Shohin
BONSAI_OUTLAW
Banned
WOW..Dave...I thought you had left us and then you show up with some awesome pots. Good to see you posting again Bro.
Chris Johnston
Omono
How strongly do you feel the earthenware pots will stand up over time with freeze-thaw etc? Stoneware is much less subject to chipping and cracking under normal use, too.
Boondock
Shohin
for me the appeal of "earthenware" clay is the texture of the claybody. Earthenware is not vitrified, which means that it has some porosity.
Smaller pots (mame and shohin) especially for non-temperate or tropical trees would probably do just fine. In an environment like a zone 9 and maybe zone 8, I bet it would be fine outside unprotected. Earthenware pots used in northern Alberta's winters (zone 2 or 3) would not be a good choice.
Keep in mind that earthenware/terracotta flowerpots tend to last for a long time. I've seen some clay flowerpots that are 30 years old. In some places in the world, terracotta tiles are used for roofing.
These pots will be fired to bisque temperatures, and then will be "pit fired". A group of potters in my area have dug a large hole in the ground and then add a bunch of fire-wood, and bisque pots. Its an ancient technique.
Smaller pots (mame and shohin) especially for non-temperate or tropical trees would probably do just fine. In an environment like a zone 9 and maybe zone 8, I bet it would be fine outside unprotected. Earthenware pots used in northern Alberta's winters (zone 2 or 3) would not be a good choice.
Keep in mind that earthenware/terracotta flowerpots tend to last for a long time. I've seen some clay flowerpots that are 30 years old. In some places in the world, terracotta tiles are used for roofing.
These pots will be fired to bisque temperatures, and then will be "pit fired". A group of potters in my area have dug a large hole in the ground and then add a bunch of fire-wood, and bisque pots. Its an ancient technique.
Oh that would be fun to see!
Will you please take pics and post them for us all to enjoy?
Irene
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