Recipe for DIY Bonsai soil

Bonsai Planet

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Could I get your recipe for DIY Bonsai soil?
I see some that add 20% ocean forest potting soil also
More of a general bonsai soil mix but mine will be for a Japaneses Maple
Thanks
 

August44

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Could I get your recipe for DIY Bonsai soil?
I see some that add 20% ocean forest potting soil also
More of a general bonsai soil mix but mine will be for a Japaneses Maple
Thanks
What is Ocean Forest potting soil?
 

Bonsai Planet

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BrightsideB

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It’s great soil for vegetables and herbs. It’s a good quality soil for that. I do use it for my cuttings with a mix of pumice, akadama, and some lava in small containers once I get a root forming from my actual rooting trays. Just to provide extra moisture and organic fertilizer. And this is just me experimenting so far it’s good. My cuttings are healthy. But they will be worked on the following year to establish radial roots and potted with a different mix. I would be surprised if anyone here used it in bonsai. I wouldn’t think of using it in a tree that is overal several years old. My gf planted a willow cutting in pure ocean forest and it died. She also tried using it to do cuttings and not one took.
 

Cruiser

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The recipe I use.. Sifted pumice and fir bark (roughly 50-50). These ingredients are plentiful around here and cheap to obtain.

The mix appears to drain well, yet holds enough moisture to carry the trees through the day.

This thread may help answer any more questions you have; or cause information overload..
 
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Wires_Guy_wires

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100% pumice.
Or 75% pumice and 25% kyuru
Or 50/50 pumice kyuru.
Or 1:1:1 pumice, lavarock, granite.
Or all of these with 5-10% pine bark and a scoop of charcoal.

Got a bunch of plants in coco coir as well. Good for fine roots but it takes a couple tries (15 years for me) to get used to it.
I've seen bonsai trees planted in coco coir and they were doing OK. But it's not ideal.
 

Bonsai Planet

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It’s great soil for vegetables and herbs. It’s a good quality soil for that. I do use it for my cuttings with a mix of pumice, akadama, and some lava in small containers once I get a root forming from my actual rooting trays. Just to provide extra moisture and organic fertilizer. And this is just me experimenting so far it’s good. My cuttings are healthy. But they will be worked on the following year to establish radial roots and potted with a different mix. I would be surprised if anyone here used it in bonsai. I wouldn’t think of using it in a tree that is overal several years old. My gf planted a willow cutting in pure ocean forest and it died. She also tried using it to do cuttings and not one took.
Did you take the time to read the link? then maybe you wouldn't add that you would be surprised
 

BrightsideB

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Did you take the time to read the link? then maybe you wouldn't add that you would be surprised
Why not post your question on the thread we’re people are discussing their experience with it? I didn’t read it because I know what the product is. I didn’t think it was a thread answering your original question. There is a lot to consider when using soil for a specific tree and the conditions it is living in. But that soil was intended for growing a specific herb I know because I worked at a hydroponic store in CA and had talked to fox farm back when I was a teenager.
 

LuZiKui

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One of the most common mixes is 1/3 akadama, 1/3 pumice, 1/3 lava (equal size particles). You can add some organic material to that to hold a little bit of moisture if you aren't able to water on a regular basis.

I really like the videos by Eric Schrader (find him on Youtube at Bonsaify). He regularly uses mostly perlite and coco coir for almost all of his trees except for the ones that have reached refinement.

I've been playing around with some cheaper mixes and have been using a mix of pumice, perlite, and some succulent mix (they sell it at Green Thumb if you live in SoCal). I probably wouldn't use it for a tree in a bonsai pot that's in the refinement stage but most of my stuff is still in development.
 

Paradox

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Pumice, lava and akadama.
Ratios of each depends on the tree (deciduous vs conifer, etc) and its watering needs.

Tried sand and gravel. Was too heavy, stayed too wet and didn't promote good root growth
 

Deep Sea Diver

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Pumice, lava and akadama.
Ratios of each depends on the tree (deciduous vs conifer, etc) and its watering needs.

Welcome Aboard Bonsai Nut!

Ingredients roughly the same for me too.. for all but azaleas…. except add at least 5% biochar or Hort. Charcoal.

Same about ratio changes depending on the tree species.

You might need some other organic material like bark down south to keep things moist, unless you are home to water a lot.

Sadly, although perlite is a good ingredient, for me it’s just too messy and unstable a media, except in cutting mix,l. Also I don’t like seeing it go down the drain and blow around…. Maybe it’s just me?

Cheers
DSD sends
 

Paradox

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Welcome Aboard Bonsai Nut!

Ingredients roughly the same for me too.. for all but azaleas…. except add at least 5% biochar or Hort. Charcoal.

Same about ratio changes depending on the tree species.

You might need some other organic material like bark down south to keep things moist, unless you are home to water a lot.

Sadly, although perlite is a good ingredient, for me it’s just too messy and unstable a media, except in cutting mix,l. Also I don’t like seeing it go down the drain and blow around…. Maybe it’s just me?

Cheers
DSD sends

Yes I use Kanuma for azaleas and I add charcoal to my akadama, pumice and lava mix as well.
 

Frozentreehugger

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Ex
100% pumice.
Or 75% pumice and 25% kyuru
Or 50/50 pumice kyuru.
Or 1:1:1 pumice, lavarock, granite.
Or all of these with 5-10% pine bark and a scoop of charcoal.

Got a bunch of plants in coco coir as well. Good for fine roots but it takes a couple tries (15 years for me) to get used to it.
I've seen bonsai trees planted in coco coir and they were doing OK. But it's not ideal.
can you elaborate on your use of coco coir I’m thinking of trying some as a organic component . Any pitfalls and or just your learning curve .as others have stated . Have to use what is available. I use crushed granite and DE as inorganic . For trees in training and a general compost . I often get a good laugh at suggestions of volcanic components like lava and pumice . They sound great . And I use some pumice in small pots . But without access to quintiles I need alternatives .
 

misfit11

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Pumice, lava and akadama.
Ratios of each depends on the tree (deciduous vs conifer, etc) and its watering needs.
This is what most people use around here. Standard mix is equal parts of each. I use more Akadama for deciduous trees like Maples and more pumice/lava rock for conifers like pines and Junipers.
 

Frozentreehugger

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Need to use what is available where you live . And is economical . It’s not a matter of being cheap . It’s a matter of where to best spend money in bonsai . The nearest volcanic mountain to me is a long way away . Lava does not exist here unless you want to purchase in 1 quart bags of questionable source . Same as pumice . Although I’m starting to use it as it’s become a winter traction aid sold as environmentally friendly. . And priced reasonable for small quantities . Akadama. I don’t use . I don’t hate the stuff but it breakers down quickly when it freezes . And again price . For those that think it’s worth it . Consider I’m Canadian it’s easily twice the price it is in the USA . And if you buy it online from the USA . Mist in this sight would be shocked at the price of shipping to Canada . What you use for compost is not anywhere near as important as the care you give the trees . Including proper watering and fertilizer . Not trying to start a soil war . But North America has the most incredible wild trees for bonsai on the planet and not one of them is growing in dirt from Japan . Bonsai soil needs to supply and hold nutrients and have some water retention and retain particle size so as not to break down and clog drainage . I use crushed granite slightly smaller in size than other components . One it’s cheap and avail . Get it by the utility trailer load . Once sifted it never never never breaks down . It adds weight to pots . Good and bad . It retains very little water good and bad . Next I use DE again availability. It breaks down very slowly retains water . Good and bad . Holds up well to freezing . Last I use composted pine bark . A local specialist conifer nursery makes it . They have one supplier of bark and make it themselves . It’s consistent from batch to batch . The 3 parts are mixed depending on species . I have heard all the Pros and cons of most mixtures . But bottom line is use what is available to you . If you use a loose mixture that allows good aeration and drainage . With consideration for water retention and a organic component . That does not breakdown to quickly . And clog the water drainage . Mixed in quantities or ratios for the species . If you don’t have good healthy root growth . Then you are doing something else wrong . Quality material and tools . Fertilization . Lessons or workshops on bonsai . Books and sone nice pots are far better places to spend money than exotic soil components from the other side of the continent or world .
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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can you elaborate on your use of coco coir I’m thinking of trying some as a organic component . Any pitfalls and or just your learning curve .as others have stated . Have to use what is available. I use crushed granite and DE as inorganic . For trees in training and a general compost . I often get a good laugh at suggestions of volcanic components like lava and pumice . They sound great . And I use some pumice in small pots . But without access to quintiles I need alternatives .
I don't know what you're asking my friend. I use it mixed with perlite or pumice or straight up for cuttings.
Wet it, let it expand and that's it.
In warmer regions like Spain and France it's usually the cheapest medium for cuttings. If you don't press it down, it stays very airy and it'll break down in two or three years.
When I get pines from nurseries, they're usually planted in fine coco coir. I think because it works great in eb & flow systems.
My learning curve with coco coir was non existent in the literal sense. I wasn't able to use it because when it dried it became hydrophobic, and when used in larger pots it just never seemed to dry.
But then I learned how to water bonsai soils and nowadays I suddenly can work with coir.
However, there is a maximum. I think it's around 4.5 gallons. Anything larger than that will be waaay more difficult to control compared to regular potting soil.
 

Frozentreehugger

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I don't know what you're asking my friend. I use it mixed with perlite or pumice or straight up for cuttings.
Wet it, let it expand and that's it.
In warmer regions like Spain and France it's usually the cheapest medium for cuttings. If you don't press it down, it stays very airy and it'll break down in two or three years.
When I get pines from nurseries, they're usually planted in fine coco coir. I think because it works great in eb & flow systems.
My learning curve with coco coir was non existent in the literal sense. I wasn't able to use it because when it dried it became hydrophobic, and when used in larger pots it just never seemed to dry.
But then I learned how to water bonsai soils and nowadays I suddenly can work with coir.
However, there is a maximum. I think it's around 4.5 gallons. Anything larger than that will be waaay more difficult to control compared to regular potting soil.
Thanks was just looking for your advice on how you use it . In Canada we are one of the primary producer and supplier of peat moss . Which is used for most of the potting soils ir at least the major component . For most nurseries and caged pitting soils . Which I don’t use for bonsai . Other then very young plants and I mix some in grow beds in the ground . My interest in coir .is as a component of bonsai soil . I’m thinking of organic liking species like prunus and tsuga . It’s reported ability to expand greatly from wet to dry seems useful to combat the soil breaking down and hurting water drainage . Have to admit I don’t like your lasts 3 years statement . Fine for prunus . But my interest in tsuga Canadensis . They like aeration and organics they love . But they also don’t like root disturbance and respond to long repot cycles . A difficult combo
 
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