Root pruning American Hornbeam

rockm

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This is exactly the product I used. I think you mentioned it in the other thread so it's what I looked for.



Do you think the Hornbeam is too stressed out to do a partial/full defoliation? I know it's not a majestic tree, but I'm hoping to learn a lot from it.
I would be extremely hesitant to defoliate an American hornbeam. They are not trident maples. Complete defoliation can be an issue for them, especially this late in the season in the East.
 

Waltron

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that little one with the leaf issue, im thinking it could possible be a big root that died back from initial trunk chop, maybe causing a root rot issue. might be able to fix it (the leaf issue) with a repot in spring, at which time you will be able to see if any large roots are dead, which will also mean a portion of the trunk is deadwood. just a thought. its also in an oversize container, which can lead to over watering. also can be remedied with a repot.

my strong growing one in the raised bed put out 4 flushes of growth this year. guy at the local bonsai nursery who has one, told me they only will put out one.
 

Giga

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I would be extremely hesitant to defoliate an American hornbeam. They are not trident maples. Complete defoliation can be an issue for them, especially this late in the season in the East.

This, I would never exfoliate and especially this late in the year even in my area. Just prune to shape if you must do something
 

rockm

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that little one with the leaf issue, im thinking it could possible be a big root that died back from initial trunk chop, maybe causing a root rot issue. might be able to fix it (the leaf issue) with a repot in spring, at which time you will be able to see if any large roots are dead, which will also mean a portion of the trunk is deadwood. just a thought. its also in an oversize container, which can lead to over watering. also can be remedied with a repot.

my strong growing one in the raised bed put out 4 flushes of growth this year. guy at the local bonsai nursery who has one, told me they only will put out one.
They will push a lot more than a single flush of new growth if they're kept fertilized at the right time. Mine have pushed about as many in some years. Other years, only a couple.
 

Waltron

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yea they seem to be most common growing deeper in woods, but I found a stand of them on the edge of the woods growing in full sun, the leaves and bark look quite different than those growing in the deep woods, took me a minute to realize they were carolinas, narrower, smaller, leaves, more compact growth, lighter colored bark. you can tell those ones grow a lot more. I've experienced the same growing them in raised beds in full sun.
 

erb.75

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I have no idea about your climate, but where I live I could do it now with no problem if it's the only one it had for the year. If it were going to be the second one for the year I might just remove infected leaves and let it gain strength for the rest of the year.

Most people me included for many years had no idea about the importance of winter treatment of fungus for the new year. The fungus starts to set in around Dec. and is not seen till well into the late spring or early summer and the damage is done. Spray thru the fall and winter and enjoy a beautiful plant all year.

For the last two weeks we had temps every day straight at 107 or more. I am keeping lush THIN moss and super nice leaves all year due to keeping up on the spraying. I show this cause if anyone was going to have leaf scorch it would be me. I do not have it, and anyone that tries to keep a maple show ready thru summer knows it won't be done with moss all year. So far I am keeping that very well mostly due to the new soil and the monthly spray. You be the judge.

View attachment 156295
wow, you keep a thin layer of moss on year round? cool! looks very nice
 

CasAH

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I have the same issue with yellowing leaves on my Carpinus carolinus this year. I had read @Smoke thread on fungus and removed the effected leaves and treated with a Bondie 3 in 1 spray. I was going to do a second treatment today as I saw a few leaves were starting to yellow, but it sleazy raining when I got home. I will do it tomorrow.

We have been a number of heavy rains this year.

Thank you Al, after reading your thread on fungus I spread my trees out for better air flow and the trees are looking better. The tridant's new leaves are looking good
 

pweifan

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Thanks everyone for the replies. It's helping me reason out an approach. Unless I'm missing something, I don't think leaving the misshapen leaves on the tree could cause any new problems. If that is indeed the case, I'd rather leave them on for the sake of the tree's health and growth. I definitely plan to aggressively root prune the tree next spring and put it in a shallower container. I wanted to get some solid growth in this year in preparation for next spring. I'm also planning on carving to the new leader to improve the taper.
 

LanceMac10

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Thanks everyone for the replies. It's helping me reason out an approach. Unless I'm missing something, I don't think leaving the misshapen leaves on the tree could cause any new problems. If that is indeed the case, I'd rather leave them on for the sake of the tree's health and growth. I definitely plan to aggressively root prune the tree next spring and put it in a shallower container. I wanted to get some solid growth in this year in preparation for next spring. I'm also planning on carving to the new leader to improve the taper.





Meep, Meep!!!
BEAKER.gif
 

Timbo

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Just my 2 cents but people saying root rot and too much watering....not sure you can water a American Hornbeam too much. You know they like damp swampy area's? I've had trouble with them drying out more than anything. They will droop/drop leaves fast in they get too dry....At least mine do.
 

thatguy

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Curious as to how these American hornbeams are doing? Still kicking over there?
 

pweifan

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Curious as to how these American hornbeams are doing? Still kicking over there?

Unfortunately, I lost the bigger/better one at the end of last year. Last spring I realized I didn't originally cut the roots close enough to the tree when I originally collected it. So I was more aggressive. I don't think the tree had enough of an energy reserve. Looking at the roots on the dead tree confirmed that it just didn't produce enough roots to survive. It seems to confirm @rockm 's theory that the time to be aggressive is when you first dig it up (both the trunk chop and the roots) because that's when the tree will have the most energy. Lesson learned, unfortunately on a stately trunk.

The smaller one is still kicking but I've lost interest in it. It was the first tree I ever collected so I loved it originally. Every time I repot it I realize how much work it will take to fix the nebari. The trunk chop is healing and I like the growth pattern. However I've been unable to resolve the cupped leaves. Walking around my parents' woods I saw other hornbeams on their property have the same issue. I don't find the leaves attractive at all. :(

I have another one growing in the ground that's had some great growth the past few years. I'm going to dig it up in the spring and see how the roots and base look. I'm hoping to work the roots, chop the trunk and plant it back in ground to keep gaining girth and taper. We'll see if maybe I can create something nicer that way. Wish me luck! :)
 
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