Root Pruning Hinoki Cypress

Jzack605

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So one of two of my Hinokis is still in a nursery pot and has only been styled above. I haven't touched the roots or soil. This tree was at our nursery for two years, and who knows how long in growers hands. It's definitely a young tree, I'd be willing to bet its 3-4 years old. I think at this point the roots need to be tended to as I am starting to see some signs that catchy my attention. I'm not necessarily looking to bare root and change the soil just yet; I want more time to develop the trunk and considering putting in ground for a bit, or into a grow box. Can I safely prune the roots back this time of year on Long Island, zone 7B? It's been hot, so I'd definitely wait until the temperature drops to 80F tops.IMG_0431.JPG
 

Mike Hennigan

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Root pruning now is most likely a bad idea, you can plant it in the ground from now into the early fall if you want to do that. Early fall is probably the best time to plant trees into the ground.

For future reference, don’t ever bareroot this tree.
 

Jzack605

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Really? I have another that I bare rooted early srping and re-potted and had no problem.

I'm aware fall is good planting time. Would it be good timing for root pruning as well?

As efficient as in ground growing can be for trunk development I am leaning toward a grow box with good organic soil to continue development. I don't really have a place for it in the ground, not without some effort I'm not sure I'll have time for.
 

0soyoung

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So one of two of my Hinokis is still in a nursery pot and has only been styled above. I haven't touched the roots or soil. This tree was at our nursery for two years, and who knows how long in growers hands. It's definitely a young tree, I'd be willing to bet its 3-4 years old. I think at this point the roots need to be tended to as I am starting to see some signs that catchy my attention. I'm not necessarily looking to bare root and change the soil just yet; I want more time to develop the trunk and considering putting in ground for a bit, or into a grow box. Can I safely prune the roots back this time of year on Long Island, zone 7B? It's been hot, so I'd definitely wait until the temperature drops to 80F tops.
If you want to plant it in the ground, simply knock off the plastic pot, loosen the roots from the 'ball' of soil and plant it. You can do this virtually any time of year, but now is among the best of times to do it. Furthermore, this means you won't need to worry about how broken down that nursery soil is. As you said, you have no idea how long this has been in that pot. I've lost 3 or 4 trees, because I thought it would be better to wait - it wasn't. The issue is that the roots cannot get enough oxygen when the soil is broken down.

If you want to repot it, I suggest you half bare root it (HBR) meaning clean out the nursery soil on only one side of the trunk. You might want to saw off about the bottom third of the 'ball' first. Now is also a good time to do this because the tree has lots of new, high powered, foliage. Stuff that is at its peak in producing auxin to stimulate root growth and producing carbohydrates that power it. Should the potting soil it is in be broken down, growth will be stifled because the roots won't produce the water and minerals that are needed nor the cytokinins that release new growth. Doing only half may be unduly catious, but it assures that half the roots are undisturbed and will support the tree just about as well as doing nothing, until the bare rooted side has recovered. Then growth can pick up remarkably (next spring).

Metabolic activity and enzymatic reactions increase with temperature, meaning they go faster the higher the temperature. Because of the recovery time of RuBisCo, trees don't grow at temperatures above 95F/35C - quite simply they burn more carbon that they fix per unit time. They live, but they just loose weight until temperatures exceed 115F/46C where all trees are certainly dying. What is up about 80F - your personal comfort? Trees don't care.

Repotting always impairs the uptake of water because root hairs are damaged/removed. The demand for water by normal transpiration is decreased by the relative humidity being high, meaning well above 50% rH. So, choose a time when humidity will be high for the next week or so to repot. Again daily temperature only exceeds 95 F briefly in the day and rH around 50% or higher is optimum for repotting evergreens.
 

Jzack605

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It’s been in the mid 90s a lot lately. My caution to the wind comes from my experience in horticulture from a landscape perspective; we generally don’t transplant trees when it gets this hot due to stress and shock concerns. Even if it’s likely that they are in summer dormancy, as the risk is much greater than their longer and more true dormancy in winter.

Interesting idea with the half bare rooting. Is this overly cautious? Like I said I’m planning on holding off on using bonsai soil for a little longer.
 

0soyoung

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Forgive me if I’m misinterpreting. Is it a bad idea to use organic soil a little longer to help growth?
No, not if it is 'fast draining'.

The problem with garden center nursery stuff is that often it is broken down and has little air-filled porosity which means the roots will be suffocating. When this happens, the tree doesn't seem to grow very well and then suddenly foliage will start turning yellow and brown because the roots died a few weeks/months ago. If you dig into it (now) with your fingers and it seems crumbly, things will be okay in my experience - smooth/sticky, like clay, is possible trouble. My point early on in the tread is that the tree might very well grow more vigorously after that nursery soil has been worked out of its roots. Then again, if the soil is in good condition, it should grow more over the short term not having to recover from repotting.

You were made aware. You made a decision.
I've made the same decision on many occasions

No old man outrage over 'you didn't take my advice'.
No snark.
Good luck.

Enjoy your tree. :D
 

Japonicus

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https://course.craftsy.com/play/4616?startLectureId=9021
Not sure if this link works if you're not signed in, or not.
If not just search at Craftsy - "Colin Lewis Bonsai wiring Essentials", and add the free tutorial to cart.
I believe you have several strands of small wire overlapped by larger wire
at the 2nd juncture on the back main trunk. Also this wire will cut in at places
by next late Spring early Summer if it's slow. Probably late Spring in zone 7.

You're saying the Hinoki "has only been styled above". What exactly do you mean, and when?

Where the picture was taken, is that typically a Sunny location where you could plant it in ground?
If so, I really like the white background for in ground growing. Is it worth the effort in ground? Yes.
It is less effort in ground than chasing moisture daily, and Winter protection requires only some mulch.
Just don't let it grow totally unchecked, allowing major branches cross the trunk or grow too thick up high. Meaning do let wild runners grow unchecked, crazy mad hair, that begs a cut, but don't cut...
unless the branches below it, are under proportioned in girth.
 

Japonicus

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@Jzack605 while we're in the midst of peak hurricane season,
which gives inland states good moisture to feed on like here in the mid Atlantic states,
you however must consider wind more than most, in particular with Florence within the next week
or by next weekend I should say
Then there's 3 or 4 more disturbances already off the coast of Africa.
Whatever you end up doing, if you end up moving the roots from the nursery can,
do anchor the root ball to whatever you put it in.

So, is the soil fast draining?
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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I would repot now, the worst of the summer heat is past. Your Winters are relatively mild, it should have plenty of time to harden off a new root system. Half bare root is safe, if your after care is good, you could risk a full bare root repot. The tree is less than 10 years old, therefore it is young and vigorous.
 

Jzack605

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Thanks guys! Thinking I will do a mix of compost and sand for the soil? Right now the trunk very clearly needs to get bigger, I think I’ll build a wood growbox.

I’m most likely only living here one more year, so while I could plant in ground there I’m not sure it’s worth it for that short of time. Only one sized wire has been used and I will have to double check but don’t think they’re crossing. I’ve been keeping a close eye and no cutting has occurred, planning on removing it early next spring.
 

Jzack605

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Into the grow box! Had a day off due to rain and took advantage. Ended up using promix with pinebark nugs at bottom for aided drainage. A few threads on here people claimed good success with promix to grow out bonsai and I was already a big fan of it (and have plenty). Soil in nursery pot was actually quite good and roots weren’t anywhere near as bad as I anticipated. I did a half bare root/teased the roots out. Was surprised there was even a slight nebari starting to show; nothing worth the effort of trying to get a photo, but some hope the trunk will gain more character.

6736B5FD-A105-4F9B-9182-D83C168F630C.jpeg
 
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