Someone here mentioned since the trunk was pencil thin, the xylem may have gotten clogged by the screw which lead to it dropping all but one leaf. It began recover about a month later so I figured it would be best to remove the screw. A week later it started wilting and eventually died. So ironically removal of the screw killed it...... at least that's what I believe.Do you know why your tree died?
I removed all downward growing roots and arranged them in different directions as best as I could. I know you're suppose to use nails to keep them in place, but I couldn't find any at home and didn't want to run to the store.Ebihara Technique is more than just screwing to a board, did you select and arrange the roots as well?
in fact, I would argue that is more of the actual “technique”
What species is this tree?
If possible I would have pruned the roots shorter, to stimulate new roots from the trunk.
Good luck with the project!
In your second picture, the screw looks way too thick for the trunk. @0soyoung gave you a heads up to avoid this issue, here:
Back in May I tried to pin this trident maple to a wooden board. BIG MISTAKE!! I’m not sure whether it was the concaved board, slight rusty nail, or exposure of roots to air for extended time period, but this maple went from full of life to damn near dead. Anyhoo, I noticed the trunk didn’t...www.bonsainut.com
If a screw isn't appropriate for a specific tree, in the future you can also temporarily use wire (as well as nails and staples) to hold the tree to the board, and then wire the board into your pot. When the tree thickens, a screw can be used.
As for roots emerging from the trunk, the smartest thing anybody could do is buy material grown for bonsai, from reputable growers of pre-bonsai material. There really is no shortage of very affordable high-quality material in New York and New England.
That root is perpendicular to the trunk so it shouldn’t cause any issuesIn your second picture, the screw looks way too thick for the trunk.
Thanks for the tip. I have another redwood I could try this onIf a screw isn't appropriate for a specific tree, in the future you can also temporarily use wire (as well as nails and staples) to hold the tree to the board, and then wire the board into your pot.
When I am using small stock, I go to the local hobby store and purchase an assortment of really small screws. You can also purchase a pinvise and small drill bits, I use this to drill a pilot hole in the trunk for the screw. This keeps the trunk from splitting, I have successfully done this on seedlings with pencil sized and a little smaller trunks
I always referred to this as a one-point graft. I think I read this in a BT article.A method to start new roots off the base of the trunk is to cut little “windows” in the base of the trunk, and pack with wet spaghnum.
Another method is to carve a hole (with a drill)and find a flexible root that you can fold in half, and stick the fold into the hole. Use a bit of wood (or chopstick or toothpicks) to wedge in there to secure it. It’s a cross between an approach and thread root graft.
It wont straighten itself.Hey BNuts, as the season draws to end I couldn't help but to take a "sneak peak" at nebari of this redwood. It seems that the ebihara method is working and I believe it's beginning to flair at the base a little.
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I have a question though. From the first batch of photos I posted, you can see the tree starts straight then it slants towards the right. My plan for this tree is to be upright and I should've wired it that way before it got so thick (Oh well I guess). Anyways is it possible that the tree will naturally straighten itself out? It seems to be doing so, but I could be seeing what I want to see.