Salvage dying Adenium Obesum - Desert Rose?

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Of the forty or so plants I have bought on spree, it seems I have managed to kill or nearly kill four Adenium Obesum - Desert Roses. Sadly I bought into using Miracle Gro Cactus Mix. Even combined with a good amount of pumice, it proved fatal to the plants, unless I watered too much at a sitting. In any case, it was less than ideal. Root rot seemed to affect the four, and I attempted surgery, just trying my best idea at the time.

Then I thought this… So I’m wondering, since I think these plants are some kind of succulent, can I salvage and cut off a healthy portion, above the root rot? and then start some roots on it? The healthy base would be about an inch across. If that would not work, could I cut at a pencil thick point on the trunk, or a branch, and make that work?

I also have two Silk Floss Ceiba Speciosa that were marred by cold in shipping (fortunately reimbursed). If I check the roots and find rot again, can I do something similar as what I asked about the Desert Rose above? I ask because, although I guess it’s not quite a succulent, it has similar bulbous roots, and a green succulent-sequel trunk.

Are these options for any of these plants? So that I can almost, essentially bat 1.000 keeping my plants alive 😆🙏 Or is it wishful thinking? 🤔🙃
 

jeffapana

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Yes you can root cuttings if you make sure to cut away all the rot. Cuttings won't give you the huge caudex you'd get from seed-grown and whether cuttings will root in the middle of winter is another story but it doesn't hurt to try. Let the cuttings dry out for a week or so (until the ends shrivel) before you pot them.

I would use a soil-less mix, so maybe scoria with your pumice instead of miracle gro. Also a general rule is don't water when they are dormant. In Florida that means water daily when in flower, weekly when in leaf but not flowering, and monthly in the winter when they are dormant and drop leaves. If you have root rot they are getting too much water.
 
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Yes you can root cuttings if you make sure to cut away all the rot. Cuttings won't give you the huge caudex you'd get from seed-grown and whether cuttings will root in the middle of winter is another story but it doesn't hurt to try. Let the cuttings dry out for a week or so (until the ends shrivel) before you pot them.

I would use a soil-less mix, so maybe scoria with your pumice instead of miracle gro. Also a general rule is don't water when they are dormant. In Florida that means water daily when in flower, weekly when in leaf but not flowering, and monthly in the winter when they are dormant and drop leaves. If you have root rot they are getting too much water.
Thank you so much, for the valuable info! So should I keep the citation the refrigerator to dry, maybe? And also, do I start the roots before or after drying the cuttings?
 

Juanma

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Do not refrigerate; let them "dry" naturally, as jeffapana explained. You'll plant the cutting AFTER the cut end dries/shrivel, but not the whole cutting.
 

Carol 83

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Sadly I bought into using Miracle Gro Cactus Mix. Even combined with a good amount of pumice, it proved fatal to the plants, unless I watered too much at a sitting
I have a good sized Desert Rose that I've had for years growing in the Miracle Gro Cactus mix. I've had no problems with it. In the winter, when it drops it's leaves, it doesn't need much water. In the summer, when it's outside, I water just like all the other trees. So, I don't think it's the soil but too much water that caused your problems.
 

jeffapana

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I have a good sized Desert Rose that I've had for years growing in the Miracle Gro Cactus mix. I've had no problems with it. In the winter, when it drops it's leaves, it doesn't need much water. In the summer, when it's outside, I water just like all the other trees. So, I don't think it's the soil but too much water that caused your problems.
Yes, it is possible to grow in any medium, but for those less experienced in the art of watering or who have had overwatering problems, a soil-less mix will be more forgiving. A key to preventing rot is to keep them on the drier side in the winter when they are dormant.
 
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I have a good sized Desert Rose that I've had for years growing in the Miracle Gro Cactus mix. I've had no problems with it. In the winter, when it drops it's leaves, it doesn't need much water. In the summer, when it's outside, I water just like all the other trees. So, I don't think it's the soil but too much water that caused your problems.
Yes, it is possible to grow in any medium, but for those less experienced in the art of watering or who have had overwatering problems, a soil-less mix will be more forgiving. A key to preventing rot is to keep them on the drier side in the winter when they are dormant.
I did not consider the fact that it's a succulent, as these are the only ones I have! lol It must be as you say, especially in winter, the plant will not take up much water, because I do water the same as any other of my plants. Fortunately I haven't had any other trees lost, and hopefully will revive these, thanks to you all! 🤞:)
Oh I meant to ask, should I use a root starter, like Clonex? Also, is the root tissue too far gone if it has not rotted away, but is much softer than healthy root?
 
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Also I should add, the caudex are healthy. If I clip beneath them, the cutting will be about 1 inch at the base. Will this work for rooting, or will I need to cut higher at the pencil width stalk?
 
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And one more question. Should they be in cool air like in the garage, or should they be near a window for sunlight? Many thanks, again!
 

jeffapana

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Also I should add, the caudex are healthy. If I clip beneath them, the cutting will be about 1 inch at the base. Will this work for rooting, or will I need to cut higher at the pencil width stalk?
Cut until it is white and hard. Any soft brown parts will continue to rot. You can leave the parts that are still healthy, including caudex. The larger the cut, the longer it will need to dry out before putting back in the pot. Also, I don't know what zone you're in and where you keep your adenium, but if they are exposed to temperatures below 45 that may also cause rot so protect them from cold.
 
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Cut until it is white and hard. Any soft brown parts will continue to rot. You can leave the parts that are still healthy, including caudex. The larger the cut, the longer it will need to dry out before putting back in the pot. Also, I don't know what zone you're in and where you keep your adenium, but if they are exposed to temperatures below 45 that may also cause rot so protect them from cold.
Okay, got it! So there was a cold snap, dipped to 42, so that may well have been the issue, exacerbated by overwatering. I generally have some experience lol and not a problem overwatering, except in this case I did not educate myself about succulents first! 🙄 The two that are in perfect health have-not a single leaf failing. Does this mean the plant is not dormant? Still since it's going to be in the low 50's this week, does it still need xeric watering, since it's a succulent? Would you describe how do you administer a light watering, without guessing? Is there a particular method, or just go on instinct? Thanks again!🙂
 

Arnaut

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Some great advice here!

My two cents:

Remember to wear gloves when doing any cuts, for your own safety.

I would suggest defoliating prior to drying them out - it will help trigger dormancy so the plant focuses on healing itself and doesn't lose water via leaves. It will keep storing it within the caudex and thicker branches instead which is what you want.

Dry it out in air. Ideally you want to hang the plant from something using wire or a piece of string. Use fungicide (cinnamon powder does the job too) on and around any cuts. Adeniums are very prone to fungus/root rot - as you yourself have experienced.

They can go pretty long like this without any water! Bigger plants can easily do a few weeks with no water. I've had adeniums with a fist sized caudex drying for two weeks in hot weather and they bounced right back with no issues. They'll go a little soft in the process. Smaller plants and cuttings with no caudex attached you need to be a little more careful as they cannot store as much water, obviously.
 
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Some great advice here!

My two cents:

Remember to wear gloves when doing any cuts, for your own safety.

I would suggest defoliating prior to drying them out - it will help trigger dormancy so the plant focuses on healing itself and doesn't lose water via leaves. It will keep storing it within the caudex and thicker branches instead which is what you want.

Dry it out in air. Ideally you want to hang the plant from something using wire or a piece of string. Use fungicide (cinnamon powder does the job too) on and around any cuts. Adeniums are very prone to fungus/root rot - as you yourself have experienced.

They can go pretty long like this without any water! Bigger plants can easily do a few weeks with no water. I've had adeniums with a fist sized caudex drying for two weeks in hot weather and they bounced right back with no issues. They'll go a little soft in the process. Smaller plants and cuttings with no caudex attached you need to be a little more careful as they cannot store as much water, obviously.
Thank you for that! I agree, great advice :) So is a synthetic/chemical fungicide okay, or is cinnamon preferable? And should I use a root starter, once the cuttings are ready?
 

Arnaut

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Not sure to be honest! I've used both with success, but personally prefer cinnamon because besides the easy accessibility of cinnamon the one batch I did with a more "chemical" fungicide I ended up with some pale discoloration along the cuts that still persist 3 years later. That may have been just that particular brand though.
 

jonf

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I'd personally try to salvage the base by bare rooting it and putting it in a pot of dry perlite/pumice/whatever, let it dry out, and no watering until it starts coming back. I don't water mine at all for about 6 months between November and April until they start growing in Spring, so if you dry yours out and keep it dry it may make it and start pushing new growth.
 
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I have a good sized Desert Rose that I've had for years growing in the Miracle Gro Cactus mix. I've had no problems with it. In the winter, when it drops it's leaves, it doesn't need much water. In the summer, when it's outside, I water just like all the other trees. So, I don't think it's the soil but too much water that caused your problems.
Okay, do you withhold fertilizing for a month when newly potting a plant, as Miracle-Gro suggests?
 
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I'd personally try to salvage the base by bare rooting it and putting it in a pot of dry perlite/pumice/whatever, let it dry out, and no watering until it starts coming back. I don't water mine at all for about 6 months between November and April until they start growing in Spring, so if you dry yours out and keep it dry it may make it and start pushing new growth.
Sorry, this was my main reply... two of my Desert Roses are perfectly healthy, not a single leaf being lost. Should I let the mix stay dry till Spring? Or I'm thinking just watering on sunny days to come...
 

jonf

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Sorry, this was my main reply... two of my Desert Roses are perfectly healthy, not a single leaf being lost. Should I let the mix stay dry till Spring? Or I'm thinking just watering on sunny days to come...
I have one that keeps its leaves in winter and I water it once around new years, but I don't think it even needs it! Next year I'll probably not water it and see how it does. And replying to your other comment, I wouldn't fertilize until spring but as a general rule of thumb it is good to wait a month after repotting to fertilize because the roots are stressed/ damaged after repotting and they are not able to utilize the fertilizer until they recover.
 
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