Schefflera Chop?

JoeR

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I have a braided schefflera that Id like to chop low to no branches to begin development as a bonsai. Afterwards I would also like to get aerial roots around the trunk. Its not super vigorous but it is healthy with new growth and all.

How would I go about this? I know that I can chop them to nothing, but when I do should I keep it in a humidity tent or any other special aftercare setups?

I plan on doing it soon just so it wont take up ao much space.

Experiences?
 

Desert Rat

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Humidity is a good thing. Chop it low, and it'll produce a bud or two. If you can heat the blade/tool somehow, they produce 2x the amount of buds.
 

Cypress187

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Shouldn't the tree be able to get back on track before winter? I thought it was a little late for a brutal chop.
 

JoeR

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Humidity is a good thing. Chop it low, and it'll produce a bud or two. If you can heat the blade/tool somehow, they produce 2x the amount of buds.
Heat it how hot though? How do you know this?

And I assume I keep it in the same amount of sun after the chop?
 

Desert Rat

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Aren't you going to need to protect it under 60 degrees? Also, the information comes from the Phoenix Bonsai Society archive, David Fukumoto, and my own personal experience.
 

JoeR

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Aren't you going to need to protect it under 60 degrees? Also, the information comes from the Phoenix Bonsai Society archive, David Fukumoto, and my own personal experience.
Yep, hes gonna stay inside. I have a good indoor setup with two grow lights and a very bright south facing window.

I wasnt doubting you btw I was just curious how you discovered such an odd technique.
 

Redwood Ryan

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Its a tropical so that doesnt really apply.

Well, it actually does. Just because it's a tropical doesn't mean you can work on it whenever. You need to make sure it's actively growing and pushing new leaves. It's slowing down from summer since it's heading into fall.
 

JoeR

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Well, it actually does. Just because it's a tropical doesn't mean you can work on it whenever. You need to make sure it's actively growing and pushing new leaves. It's slowing down from summer since it's heading into fall.
This one was a houseplant so it never experienced 'seasons' is all I am saying. It gets less sun in summer than in winter.

I am doing it soon because I have limited space for tropicals and this one takes up wayyy too much room.
 

mat

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Aren't you going to need to protect it under 60 degrees? Also, the information comes from the Phoenix Bonsai Society archive, David Fukumoto, and my own personal experience.

I think 60 is way too high a temp to start worrying. 40 would be fine. I bring my nicer ones in when 40 or lower is forecast for the night. I leave many of mine out even down to freezing and they've never had an issue. They're very tough, sub-tropical plants - tougher than most books or on-line references give them credit for.
 

Geo

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mat: sorry to make a little segue. But I bought a very partially braided (Pachira aquaticaa) Money tree, about four feet high. Its been re potted into a proper mix.
But the growth is all on top of the "braids". Do you know anything about chopping this one. Obviously even 60F. at night is at least a couple of months away for us here.
 

Desert Rat

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I've never tried the heated blade technique. That one comes from the PBS. However, David Fukumoto suggests chopping down as low as you dare. You essentially throw away any trunk progress from above, but it really induces dramatic flare. This is the technique that is showcased in one of his current three contemporary specialty styles. Make sure that you root the cutting, "trunks" (green or woody) root very well, but "shoots" do not.

Also, just a note on temperature. In Hilo, where these things grow best (I've never seen a more aggressively grown "bonsai" plant), they never see temperatures below 60 degrees. Take that for what you will.
 

amcoffeegirl

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Even on an indoor plant it is better to do it in spring- IMHO
 

Desert Rat

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Even on an indoor plant it is better to do it in spring- IMHO

It depends. Mine get the same 14 hours of strong artificial light year round. Same amount of humidity. The OP has indicated that his get more light in the winter than the summer. Heat isn't as much as a factor as you would think in encouraging dormancy. I have a summer outdoor period of dormancy here. All outdoor trees don't put on as much growth in June and July. However, with a 20 degree drop in temperatures in August, they have "woken up" and are growing just like they did back in February. As long as the OP provided enough heat (80 degrees is supposed to be the sweet spot), the Scheffleras would continue to grow normally.
 

Cadillactaste

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I'm a northerner...so, my experience would differ from your location. I was always told to do work in the spring on my tropicals. I also bring them indoors and they grow through our winter. But that they stand a better chance if one works on them during the best time where the window of opportunity and growth is seen. Just because they don't go dormant...doesn't mean there isn't a window of opportunity that wouldn't be a better time. Because horticulturally speaking...everything has a growth period when they are pushing more roots and growth I would imagine...no?

Sorry no actual advice...just food for thought. Good luck on what you decide...
 

Cadillactaste

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I pulled up a link from the search area. If you are able to provide additional heat along with humidity and light...you might be okay. But it discusses issues with humidity when your furnace kicks in...and also about windows and hiccups you can face. I am not seeing additional heating for your tree...so you may wish to read the thread below. If this your first year into wintering...I might hold off so you know what your facing with temps and humidity issues before a hard chop.

http://bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/how-to-prune-a-schefflera.9388/
 

Desert Rat

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It depends if you're after active growth in the winter, or just looking for your plants to survive. With $45 in materials, I can provide a constant 85 degrees and 80% humidity year round to my tropicals, with about 50k lux light intensity. I'm to the point where I'll probably start growing all of my tropicals indoors as it's too dry outside in the summer for what I'd like to do.

If the OP provides the right conditions, he can work the tree any time of the year. Where these plants come from, and the closer you get to the equator, the lesser the effect of the seasons you'll see.

Remember, Adam Lavinge will root prune, chop, defoliate, and wire a Ficus all at one time, in November.

Tropicals play by a different set of rules, specifically if you can provide the appropriate growing conditions. With the temperature, light, and humidity I provide, I *must* root prune my Schefflera every two months. They don't miss a beat.
 

amcoffeegirl

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It depends if you're after active growth in the winter, or just looking for your plants to survive. With $45 in materials, I can provide a constant 85 degrees and 80% humidity year round to my tropicals, with about 50k lux light intensity. I'm to the point where I'll probably start growing all of my tropicals indoors as it's too dry outside in the summer for what I'd like to do.

If the OP provides the right conditions, he can work the tree any time of the year. Where these plants come from, and the closer you get to the equator, the lesser the effect of the seasons you'll see.

Remember, Adam Lavinge will root prune, chop, defoliate, and wire a Ficus all at one time, in November.

Tropicals play by a different set of rules, specifically if you can provide the appropriate growing conditions. With the temperature, light, and humidity I provide, I *must* root prune my Schefflera every two months. They don't miss a beat.
The op isn't adam - adam has a great deal of experience working trees in his area.
The op isn't in Florida.
Not everyone can do what adam does.
Fwiw
If you chop a tree it should be given ideal growing conditions but not everyone can provide that.
Hopefully good light will suffice.
 

Cadillactaste

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Off topic:
But since the equator was brought up... cool fact about being near the equator...in Honduras...the sun rises and sets around 6ish. (At least in June/July) And it sets quickly. I was amazed at how quickly. I moved to capture the foliage in the photo. And turned to respond to the one walking up next to me...went to snap another photo and it was to dark to capture really anything at all.
image.jpg
 
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