Schefflera Chop?

Cadillactaste

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Honduras? You must have one REAL longed neck watering can!!!
Lol not quite. But our family goes down with a team for mission work. Its actually where my love of Bougianvillea stems from. The village we go to...has no missionary facility, with WGM we are creating one. I work with VBS though while there (189 children this year) and the men work on the facility. But, in a round about way...the special reminder of our mission work is tied into the reason I got my first Bougainvillea bonsai. :)

Sorry for that rabbit hole...back out and back on topic.
 

Desert Rat

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The op isn't adam - adam has a great deal of experience working trees in his area.
The op isn't in Florida.
Not everyone can do what adam does.
Fwiw
If you chop a tree it should be given ideal growing conditions but not everyone can provide that.
Hopefully good light will suffice.

As much as I admire Adam, he isn't a god/God. He cannot control the weather. However, $50 will get you all of the materials to grow a limited number of tropical plants indoors. Citing geographic differences as an excuse does not cut it. If you're interested in aggressive growth and aggressive methodologies to produce the desired results in the fastest possible manner, then you've got some work to do.

Remember, bonsai is two parts: horticulture and art. Art requires more talent and feeling, while best horticultural practices can be applied from a book.

If you don't want to develop tropicals like Schefflera in a fast and efficient manner, don't do what I suggested. Do whatever you wish, and find the enjoyment in your trees. However, per the OP's desires, he is after aggressive growth.

I hate to keep parroting off the name, but look into David Fukumoto's work. You could probably call the nursery and talk to him, or even Eddie. Eddie is super knowledgeable too, but speaks pidgin and can be hard to understand sometimes. Fuku Bonsai has "written the book" (there isn't actually a book) on Schefflera and Brassia.
 

Redwood Ryan

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As much as I admire Adam, he isn't a god/God. He cannot control the weather. However, $50 will get you all of the materials to grow a limited number of tropical plants indoors. Citing geographic differences as an excuse does not cut it. If you're interested in aggressive growth and aggressive methodologies to produce the desired results in the fastest possible manner, then you've got some work to do.

Remember, bonsai is two parts: horticulture and art. Art requires more talent and feeling, while best horticultural practices can be applied from a book.

If you don't want to develop tropicals like Schefflera in a fast and efficient manner, don't do what I suggested. Do whatever you wish, and find the enjoyment in your trees. However, per the OP's desires, he is after aggressive growth.

I hate to keep parroting off the name, but look into David Fukumoto's work. You could probably call the nursery and talk to him, or even Eddie. Eddie is super knowledgeable too, but speaks pidgin and can be hard to understand sometimes. Fuku Bonsai has "written the book" (there isn't actually a book) on Schefflera and Brassia.

BUT geographic differences make a huge difference. Artificial lighting will never match the power of the sun. $50 won't get you much in terms of growing indoors, especially to achieve the rapid growth you're claiming.

David is great, BUT he's in Hawaii. That's a totally different story.
 

amcoffeegirl

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As much as I admire Adam, he isn't a god/God. He cannot control the weather. However, $50 will get you all of the materials to grow a limited number of tropical plants indoors. Citing geographic differences as an excuse does not cut it. If you're interested in aggressive growth and aggressive methodologies to produce the desired results in the fastest possible manner, then you've got some work to do.

Remember, bonsai is two parts: horticulture and art. Art requires more talent and feeling, while best horticultural practices can be applied from a book.

If you don't want to develop tropicals like Schefflera in a fast and efficient manner, don't do what I suggested. Do whatever you wish, and find the enjoyment in your trees. However, per the OP's desires, he is after aggressive growth.

I hate to keep parroting off the name, but look into David Fukumoto's work. You could probably call the nursery and talk to him, or even Eddie. Eddie is super knowledgeable too, but speaks pidgin and can be hard to understand sometimes. Fuku Bonsai has "written the book" (there isn't actually a book) on Schefflera and Brassia.
Please show us your great grow room- and all your fabulous tropical trees.
Master of great infinite wisdom.
Ps I have read the book- the website
Jerry's book- adams blog.
Quote names all day.
Let's see your trees
 

JoeR

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I love debates like this however I really am still lost. Just need to know a few things. Those links dont say anything about preparing for and aftercare of complete foliage reduction,

When I chop it, what would be the best thing to do with it?

I can put it outside (its never been outside) in a plastic tent where I cant monitor it as easily. Mist it less often.
-or-
I can keep it inside under a plastic tent in a southern window with two (cheap) grow lights on it where I can monitor it easily. Mist it more often.

Im so lost still! All I want is for it to survive the chop and grow some aerial roots. The only tropicals I have are citrus and they are happy in just the south facing window.
 

amcoffeegirl

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When I have chopped a schef it has always gone outside in filtered light. It has been done every year except this one in spring or early summer.
Inside may be ok??? If you have bright light.
Chopping is fine for these but it must be in warm weather with bright filtered light. Mine seemed to tolerate low humidity very well.
 

LanceMac10

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First, don't mess with it until you bring it out side next spring
Yes, bring it outside. It's still a tree and to have someone suggest artificial lighting is in any way comparable to sunlight is misinformed.
Working with tents, either indoors or out is asking for trouble. Open it for awhile, close it, check for fungus, watch for scale....etc. etc...
Why hassle youself?
You'll be able to care for and work the tree so much better in spring and summer when it's outdoors growin' like a mofo'....

Honestly, I'm moving slowly away from tropicals...but if I lived somewhere nice and toasty?? I would have figs everywhere!!!

Good luck with whatever you end up doing, but there ain't nothin' wrong with patience.
 

Cadillactaste

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Hi there,

Would you advise against cutting hard a schefflera now? I've been told it's better to do it in the Spring.

Thanks,
Vincent



Dec 3, 2012Report

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matChumono

It's generally recommended that major work be done on tropicals when they're actively growing - which is spring and summer for the most part. They don't stop growing in the winter, but they definitely slow down.

"
 

Cadillactaste

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If you have supplemental lighting as well as suitable heat and humidity it is a fine time to work on most tropicals, but if it is just by the window, I would wait until the middle of the summer.
 

JoeR

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First, don't mess with it until you bring it out side next spring
Yes, bring it outside. It's still a tree and to have someone suggest artificial lighting is in any way comparable to sunlight is misinformed.
Working with tents, either indoors or out is asking for trouble. Open it for awhile, close it, check for fungus, watch for scale....etc. etc...
Why hassle youself?
You'll be able to care for and work the tree so much better in spring and summer when it's outdoors growin' like a mofo'....

Honestly, I'm moving slowly away from tropicals...but if I lived somewhere nice and toasty?? I would have figs everywhere!!!

Good luck with whatever you end up doing, but there ain't nothin' wrong with patience.
I forgot to mention I must do it before my other tropicals come in for the winter. It is too big and I need to chop it to make room.

I am patient enough normally, but its not a matter of patients now.
 

Cadillactaste

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I forgot to mention I must do it before my other tropicals come in for the winter. It is too big and I need to chop it to make room.

I am patient enough normally, but its not a matter of patients now.
How about a photo of this tree? I have a potted tropical hibiscus that is far from a bonsai in my sunroom. I keep the branches cut back to a degree.

Honestly...if you have no room for it otherwise, then chop with the understanding there will be some risk involved. As long as your going in with that mind set, with no other alternative. One must weigh their options...if you are facing it outdoors or chopped weigh in the better factor of success. But, know most unless they have a specific set up typically do it earlier on.
 

JoeR

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**Patience not patients sorry

I can get a photo sometime this week hopefully.


I have maybe a month or so until I need to chop If it needs to come in at around 60°
 

aframe

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I love debates like this however I really am still lost. Just need to know a few things. Those links dont say anything about preparing for and aftercare of complete foliage reduction,

When I chop it, what would be the best thing to do with it?

I can put it outside (its never been outside) in a plastic tent where I cant monitor it as easily. Mist it less often.
-or-
I can keep it inside under a plastic tent in a southern window with two (cheap) grow lights on it where I can monitor it easily. Mist it more often.

Im so lost still! All I want is for it to survive the chop and grow some aerial roots. The only tropicals I have are citrus and they are happy in just the south facing window.

Here's the work I did on a Schefflera this year: http://bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/hawaiian-umbrella-restyle.19389/#post-279354 I left some leaves at the apex because I wanted to give specific buds a head start before removing all the old foliage. I have cut other trees back very low, in the spring and summer, all have pushed new growth. I'm going to cut another one back this week, because there's a lot of sun and heat left this growing season in my area.
I've noticed that new leaves are easily scorched when positioned in direct sun during summer. As others have said: filtered light. I was probably over cautious by setting this tree in the shade for 2 weeks after cutting back, only allowing it soft early morning sun. I misted it in the mornings and evenings on top of watering regularly, some times twice a day when hot. After the new growth hardened off, I gradually increased the duration and intensity of light choosing positions where it received direct light early and filtered/dappled light as the sun moved overhead, shade in the late afternoon. Too much shade and the leaves will grow to big and the petioles will elongate too much. I suspect 50% shade cloth during summer would produce the desired results; I use 50% shade cloth over my stock in development.
Aerial roots can be 'encouraged' by very high humidity and/or wounding the branch. I have seen roots grow at wound sites without applying rooting hormone, I just don't know if applying the hormone actually increases the probability of root production. I've read somewhere that aerial roots tend to form when the plant is pot bound or the roots are stressed due to lack of moisture or pruning or both. Sorry, I don't recall where I got that info.
I brought this tree inside and kept it in the guest shower on a bench during the winter. I used this shower, and the tree responded well to the higher temp and humidity. Once the night temps were consistently around 50, back out side it went.

I would leave it outside after cutting back, as the tree will benefit from the higher humidity. I have 8 other Scheffleras ranging 1 gallon and 15 gallon that stay outside in my area year round. I had 4 nights at 28 degrees last winter, many other nights below freezing. They seem to be tolerant trees given a healthy root ball. However, I would not leave any tropical in a bonsai pot unprotected and where temps dip below 40ish.
hope that helps
 
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Desert Rat

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Darlene and AMCoffeeGirl, you two are obtuse and quite the pair. That goes for your army of fanboys too.

JoeR, I'll PM you some objective information, as you're receiving some really interesting replies that make zero sense.
 

LanceMac10

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Santa Cruz ain't Cackalaki.......look at it this way Joe, folks from alot warmer climates than your location are saying "chop it"...other folks in similar climates to yours are suggesting caution. You can do what you like, but waiting for the answer you want to hear ain't learning......still, I wish you good growing, I ain't no negative tool-bag!!:D
 

JoeR

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Here's the work I did on a Schefflera this year: http://bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/hawaiian-umbrella-restyle.19389/#post-279354 I left some leaves at the apex because I wanted to give specific buds a head start before removing all the old foliage. I have cut other trees back very low, in the spring and summer, all have pushed new growth. I'm going to cut another one back this week, because there's a lot of sun and heat left this growing season in my area.
I've noticed that new leaves are easily scorched when positioned in direct sun during summer. As others have said: filtered light. I was probably over cautious by setting this tree in the shade for 2 weeks after cutting back, only allowing it soft early morning sun. I misted it in the mornings and evenings on top of watering regularly, some times twice a day when hot. After the new growth hardened off, I gradually increased the duration and intensity of light choosing positions where it received direct light early and filtered/dappled light as the sun moved overhead, shade in the late afternoon. Too much shade and the leaves will grow to big and the petioles will elongate too much. I suspect 50% shade cloth during summer would produce the desired results; I use 50% shade cloth over my stock in development.
Aerial roots can be 'encouraged' by very high humidity and/or wounding the branch. I have seen roots grow at wound sites without applying rooting hormone, I just don't know if applying the hormone actually increases the probability of root production. I've read somewhere that aerial roots tend to form when the plant is pot bound or the roots are stressed due to lack of moisture or pruning or both. Sorry, I don't recall where I got that info.
I brought this tree inside and kept it in the guest shower on a bench during the winter. I used this shower, and the tree responded well to the higher temp and humidity. Once the night temps were consistently around 50, back out side it went.

I would leave it outside after cutting back, as the tree will benefit from the higher humidity. I have 8 other Scheffleras ranging 1 gallon and 15 gallon that stay outside in my area year round. I had 4 nights at 28 degrees last winter, many other nights below freezing. They seem to be tolerant trees given a healthy root ball. However, I would not leave any tropical in a bonsai pot unprotected and where temps dip below 40ish.
hope that helps
This was very helpful, thanks so much.

So, to make sure I understood you correctly, I can chop it now and I should leave it outside afterwards under shade cloth? Can I scar the trunk at the same time to form roots or should I do that when I repot it in a few months (according to what I read you shouldnt chop and repot at the same time)?
 

Cadillactaste

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Darlene and AMCoffeeGirl, you two are obtuse and quite the pair. That goes for your army of fanboys too.

JoeR, I'll PM you some objective information, as you're receiving some really interesting replies that make zero sense.

Well...lookie there..."Fanboys." And you know my name. I smell a RAT boys! Lol (Pun intended)

I must admit my time here hasn't been as often as it once had. Your post was July 28th I shared...yet you seem to think you know me. Anyone else find that...interesting!?!

I am obtuse for...sharing your previous knowledge a little over a month ago. Interesting.

I'm of the belief this here is a Troll...and I don't feed Trolls. Thinking a troll reincarnated. To supposedly know so much.
 
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