School me on crab apple air layers!

yashu

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1A180365-F263-43D4-BF2C-BDC2DD3635C3.jpegSo… I have a beautiful, old (HUGE) crabapple on my property that reliably produces these fantastic little apples. I would like to take an air layer from this tree but I have no idea where (when?) to start and the best strategy for success. This tree branches prolifically so there are numerous places I see that could make a beautiful small tree.

I have no fruiting trees yet this is new territory for me and subsequently I have a ton of questions;

Best time of year to start the layer, I’m assuming fall is out of the question so next year?

How thick a branch can I layer successfully with crabapple?

When is it safe to harvest the air layer and can it go through winter if roots are not adequately developed?

After care?

Can I screw the layer to a board a-la Ebihara method to encourage radial roots?

Once the tree is established what are the best methods to encourage flowering and fruiting and overall health of crabapple?

Many thanks as always!!!

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Lutonian

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from my experience crab apple layer easy, start the layer when the leaves harden off in spring. the ones I have done rooted quick 6 to 8 weeks ish if i remember right. I don't think you will have to worry about getting the layer through winter.
The biggest airlayer i have taken was approx about 5 inches thick, you could probably go much bigger.

regarding the care ect I just fertilize mine normally it flowers every year and produces tons of fruit, I just thin down the fruit before they develop (not sure this does much but i am over cautious and feel it is better to be precautious and not stress the tree.

just watch out for pests and disease mine are bug and black spot and rust magnets, it doesn't kill the tree but is a reservoir for disease this can be managed though with good garden hygiene and apply the correct treatment at the right time.
 

yashu

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@Lutonian do you have any photos of your tree or links to threads you might have created for them, I’d love to see. Thank you for the information, I can’t wait to get this plan in the works.
 

Shibui

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Many crab apples layer real easy but not all. I've had a few refuse to root no matter what I did so you'll just have to give this one a go and see what happens.
Theoretically there's no size limit for layers. That's the real beauty about layers - we can start with thicker trunks and sometimes get closer to instant bonsai.
Be sure to look for branches with some twists, bends and/or taper to speed up subsequent development if possible.
Remember that cuts (and therefore roots) do not have to be at right angles to the stem you layer. Cut at an angle for a trunk growing out of the soil at an angle (informal upright, leaning style, etc)

Even up there I suspect that layers can go through winter if there's not sufficient roots come fall but, in any case, you won't have much option if there's not enough roots. Note that layers can survive with very few roots. I've just taken a maple layer off here (early spring) that only had one small root. Looks good after 2 weeks and I fully expect it to survive from previous experience. Layers with no or few roots already have the callus which is precursor to roots so are much closer to roots than any cutting and will usually go on to make more roots after. Separating a layer is a big incentive to grow new roots. Trees with few roots should be able to overwinter in pots with protection similar to any other bonsai as they have fewer needs for water, nutrients, etc while they are dormant. I suggest cross that bridge when and if you need to.

Should be no need to use a board under a layer. The roots are already all laterals and will continue to grow outward with just simple root pruning after it settles into the pot.

Layers should already have mature wood and should be able to flower immediately. Crab flowering depends on fruiting spurs so all pruning is geared toward building more of those and reducing longer vegetative growth. I also feed low N, higher K 'flowering' fertilizer from mid summer through to leaf fall as that's when trees start to form flower buds. That seems to help a little with trees that are ready to flower but very little we can do to force trees that are not ready.
 

yashu

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Should quantity of “fruiting spurs” be a primary focus when looking for a suitable layer or will those form later on? Is there a way to instigate the formation of fruiting spurs?
 

Shibui

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Should quantity of “fruiting spurs” be a primary focus when looking for a suitable layer or will those form later on? Is there a way to instigate the formation of fruiting spurs?
Trunk development takes most time in any bonsai so I would look for areas with good potential for trunks as a priority.
Regular pruning is the best way to encourage fruiting spurs. I is a little more complex but remove strong, upright vegetative growth regularly and leave shorter, horizontal shoots alone will be a good start. Lower N fert also helps discourage vegetative growth and encourage fruiting.
 

NateMcFly3

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For whatever reason, my attempts last year had no roots in autumn, but this spring there were loads. No problem waiting over the winter. 3” branches.

I think you can encourage spurs by pruning, something like cut after the 4th leaf on a sprout … check on pruning regular apple trees. So shouldn’t have to focus only on branches with existing spurs (of course, could save you a year if you do!)

Also, I collected pitch pine cones last weekend and have a zillion seeds now. I had sent you a note on Reddit a few months ago - ignore that! :)
 

yashu

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Also, I collected pitch pine cones last weekend and have a zillion seeds now. I had sent you a note on Reddit a few months ago - ignore that! :)
Good to hear! Always a little bit cooler when you collected them yourself. Good luck!
 

Lutonian

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@Lutonian do you have any photos of your tree or links to threads you might have created for them, I’d love to see. Thank you for the information, I can’t wait to get this plan in the works.
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This is the only one left in my possession, it had a lot of larger branches coming from the top of the tree originally but I layered them and gave them to people as shohin starters. The plant pictured is also an air layer
 
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