BonjourBonsai
Chumono
The tree is healthy enough to make a little pine cone. That definitely encourages me.
Scots Pine - Bass Ackwards
- Thread starter BonjourBonsai
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BonjourBonsai
Chumono
BonjourBonsai
Chumono
But this would reduce the tree by a huge amount.
The right time to do that would be in the middle of dormancy, right?
The right time to do that would be in the middle of dormancy, right?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Going in stages? Remove the lower sidebranches of the to be removed segment so the lower branches you want to keep receive full sun?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Would you recommend every few weeks removing a single branch for a year then? Or in several years, have an individual cut-back session removing several heavier branches at a time?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Some argue cones form to reproduce before death. Good thing that doesn't seem the case!
Seems you have plenty of good buds below to keep it going.
Doing it now has more potential to make the tree backbud. Likely from the trunk if at all.
Doing it on dormancy gives the tree a chance to decide to allocate those new resources to the existing folaige. Which could result in overly large growth in spring, which may result in better backbudding when those branches are cut.
Since it seems you need more close buds on branches than the trunk, I'd do it dormant....
Like Bill Cosby.
Sorce
Seems you have plenty of good buds below to keep it going.
Doing it now has more potential to make the tree backbud. Likely from the trunk if at all.
Doing it on dormancy gives the tree a chance to decide to allocate those new resources to the existing folaige. Which could result in overly large growth in spring, which may result in better backbudding when those branches are cut.
Since it seems you need more close buds on branches than the trunk, I'd do it dormant....
Like Bill Cosby.
Sorce
MrFancyPlants
Omono
I am not a pine expert by any means, but remove some lower branches of the sections to be removed now. To let the light in to the final design. You want to set some healthy buds for next year. Take it slow with the rest for optimal health.. working your way up and out.
Alain BERTRAND
Mame
I have killed a few pines by chopping them as there were a lot of roots in the pot. I have switched a few years ago to repot them in spring and chop them at the end of spring and I don't kill them anymore.
BonjourBonsai
Chumono
Alain BERTRAND
Mame
Same year.
BonjourBonsai
Chumono
I made some decisions today. I removed the upper branches. 
I can see things taking shape.
I can see things taking shape.
BonjourBonsai
Chumono
Cut paste?
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
That's not the...or, I hope that not the shape you want to preserve, so I'd say no.
When it reroutes and you cut it back to the dieback line, that could get paste, but I wouldn't use it then either.
Sorce
When it reroutes and you cut it back to the dieback line, that could get paste, but I wouldn't use it then either.
Sorce
BonjourBonsai
Chumono
Nope, that's definitely not the shape i want to keep. I'm reducing the tree in stages.
I think the next step might be something like this
On the question of cut paste...has anyone ever thought that it is useful to seal the tree's pipes? Meaning, if the tree's circulatory system relies on a closed loop to pump liquid, making a huge whole in the system would be like loosing the prime in a pump or getting a bubble in your siphon. I'm speculating that cut paste would help to seal the system and allow the tree to continue to pump. Mind you, this is just a theory with no proof, but has anyone else done or seen any research on that? Just curious
clem
Chumono
IMO your project of cut is good in term of trunk line aestetics, but the new crown has quite long inter nodes which means that you'll have not many branches to build the rest of tree (unless this new crown backbud which is possible with sunlight) .. I may be wrong, but maybe the secondary branches that we see on it are already dead because of the lack of sunlight ?
Maybe you could find another one well placed, with more secondary branches alive ? (for example the bigger one on the left ?)
It's easier to check this with the real tree than on pictures of course
Maybe you could find another one well placed, with more secondary branches alive ? (for example the bigger one on the left ?)
It's easier to check this with the real tree than on pictures of course
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Listen to Adair's advise. I have a philosophy in developing nursery material. Unless something is obvious and undeniable never look at a tree with the overwhelming question as to what style should I make this tree? This method almost always ends in disaster or failure. Start by eliminating the stuff that is too large to fit the trunk, as Adair has pointed out, and anything else that you know does not belong like bar branches, crotch growth, bottom growing branches and to the moon growing branches, (those that grow straight up). Important; keep only two shoots at the growing tips.
clem
Chumono
Indeed sometimes it's obvious and if i can't find "the tree in the tree" i prefer to leave the pine alone (the same with any other specie) ^^
Can you detail how ? you mean the future crown dies ?
clem
Chumono
@Vance Wood look at how Ryan Neil proceed (the same as the OP : front selection, useless branches removal, new crown selection).. he's a great pro so he is skilled in technics, cultivation, & aesthétics. As long as the tree doesn't die, as long as the OP knows how to proceed to not kill the tree (and with pines we shouldn't cut too much at the same time) i think the process is good ?
ps : with pines when you remove a lot of foliage, you risk root rot if you water to much, too frequently, that's why experienced Bonsai enthusiasts prefer to work on pines correctly established & healthy in a very draining substrate to avoid, as much as possible, any root rot issue
ps : with pines when you remove a lot of foliage, you risk root rot if you water to much, too frequently, that's why experienced Bonsai enthusiasts prefer to work on pines correctly established & healthy in a very draining substrate to avoid, as much as possible, any root rot issue
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Are you really telling @Vance Wood how to deal with pines ? That hilariously sad
clem
Chumono
peace, take it easy (etc), nothing "hilariously sad" here, nor 'lese majesté crime'
Whether you like it or not, there's not just 1 way to proceed as long as the pine survive. Take a look at demos & maybe you'll open your mind ?
The key point is that the pine is strong & well established in a draining soil. As long as those conditions are met, you can style your pine in a few hours, or take years to proceed.
