Sea Grape

penumbra

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,451
Reaction score
16,091
Location
Front Royal, VA
USDA Zone
6
These intrigue me and I am not sure why. If I had the climate I would certainly have one but I already have so many plants that come in for the winter.
 

SockUnicorn

Shohin
Messages
488
Reaction score
1,475
Location
South Florida
USDA Zone
10b
How do you plan to do that?
Keep it pot bound?
Withhold Fert?

Pretty much this yes. I have one that I got into a very small pot and leaves are already reducing. Even with low fert actually.

Full sun, get it stuck in the pot, good timing on pruning because some of it is just an illusion of them being small as well. Definitely don't fertilize heavy.
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,290
Reaction score
8,389
Location
West Indies [ Caribbean ]
USDA Zone
13
The challenge -
Hey Sock,

we can get 17 main branches on a 3 " tree with 3 to 5 leaves a branchlet.
Trunk increases rapidly if ground grown.
Defoliated only once a year,
Happy to share, let's see some growing,
Anthony


Seagrape .jpg

and no the answer was not heavy fertiliser

seagrape.jpg
 

Cadillactaste

Neagari Gal
Messages
16,324
Reaction score
21,041
Location
NE Ohio: zone 4 (USA) lake microclimate
USDA Zone
5b
Pretty much this yes. I have one that I got into a very small pot and leaves are already reducing. Even with low fert actually.

Full sun, get it stuck in the pot, good timing on pruning because some of it is just an illusion of them being small as well. Definitely don't fertilize heavy.
My friend who shows hers...defoliates hers. But, being containerized and having development/ramification goes a long way as well.
 

SockUnicorn

Shohin
Messages
488
Reaction score
1,475
Location
South Florida
USDA Zone
10b
My friend who shows hers...defoliates hers. But, being containerized and having development/ramification goes a long way as well.

Defoliating is definitely useful, but the way it works is by taking energy from the tree and roots to produce new leaves, which means less growth for the trunk and branches.

It works really well though when you do it at the right time!
 

Cadillactaste

Neagari Gal
Messages
16,324
Reaction score
21,041
Location
NE Ohio: zone 4 (USA) lake microclimate
USDA Zone
5b
Defoliating is definitely useful, but the way it works is by taking energy from the tree and roots to produce new leaves, which means less growth for the trunk and branches.

It works really well though when you do it at the right time!
Agreed. But also with it taking energy from a tree. It's not something I would stress about while developing a tree. You want to grow branches...you want a strong healthy tree. Different species...but, I cut the bracts before they bloomed off my bougainvillea...so it didn't waist energy on blooms...when I was trying to build structure. One year...I contemplated blooms. I think I had one set of bracts...and then studied the tree...and ended up cutting them off before they stole energy. This year...I believe it will be permitted to bloom. We have to make sacrifices to get from development to a finer degree of developed tree.
 

SockUnicorn

Shohin
Messages
488
Reaction score
1,475
Location
South Florida
USDA Zone
10b
Agreed. But also with it taking energy from a tree. It's not something I would stress about while developing a tree. You want to grow branches...you want a strong healthy tree. Different species...but, I cut the bracts before they bloomed off my bougainvillea...so it didn't waist energy on blooms...when I was trying to build structure. One year...I contemplated blooms. I think I had one set of bracts...and then studied the tree...and ended up cutting them off before they stole energy. This year...I believe it will be permitted to bloom. We have to make sacrifices to get from development to a finer degree of developed tree.

Agreed on your insight! I think too many people want to do bonsai on some type of schedule though and in reality it is a feedback and response system that works best.

It's JUST as easy to get back budding on a tree by fertilizing hard, getting the tree exploding with growth and growing really hard, as it is to get back budding from constant pruning and defoliation.

One method weakens the tree and one doesn't.
Both are methods that work, however.
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,290
Reaction score
8,389
Location
West Indies [ Caribbean ]
USDA Zone
13
Sock,

the small one is from the late 80's and the bigger in the early
90's.
The seagrape though a favourite, is labour intensive, so there
are only about 5 here, though the lawn has tree.
Will be watching,
Thank You.
Anthony

* large branches airlayer easily.
It is a furniture wood, but never becomes insect proof.
Wounds heal, but termites munch.
 

Forsoothe!

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,878
Reaction score
9,251
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6b
If you can, focus on getting 1" leaves.
Tree is branch poor,
Good Day
Anthony
I have heard it alleged, for 20 years, that 1" leaves are do-able. I have never seen a picture of one. Here is a Sea Grape only 15 years in process and already the leaves are down to 4". The same 4" they were 14 years ago. Surely, if these allegedly 1" leaves exist anywhere there is a photo of one....
Sea Grape 062320 leafing out.JPG
Show me.
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,290
Reaction score
8,389
Location
West Indies [ Caribbean ]
USDA Zone
13
@Forsoothe! ,

the secret is - bang - slumps over.

Seriously, llook for a seedling with smaller than average leaves
and more branches.
Also a trunk at the proportion 1 to 6 or 5 height.

But you will spend a lot of time doing all that.
The tee is also naturally deciduous - easier.

Plus at beyond 3 inch height, 1 inch leaves look silly.
Bring up your leaf density.
Have fun.
Anthony

* matchstick above,
 

Forsoothe!

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,878
Reaction score
9,251
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6b
@Forsoothe! ,

the secret is - bang - slumps over.

Seriously, l look for a seedling with smaller than average leaves
and more branches.
Also a trunk at the proportion 1 to 6 or 5 height.

But you will spend a lot of time doing all that.
The tee is also naturally deciduous - easier.

Plus at beyond 3 inch height, 1 inch leaves look silly.
Bring up your leaf density.
Have fun.
Anthony

* matchstick above,
As much as I hate to argue with such a nice guy Anthony, I've checked all the boxes. Lots and lots of branches. For scale, the bottom of the first branch is 5" high. If you look closely at the photo, less than 25% of the buds have leafed-out. This is the result of a defoliation and full repot. Full tilt boogie, but no trophy. Boo Hiss. I'm going to check with historians to see if Hitler had a Sea Grape. 1" leaves may be part of "The Big Lie".
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,290
Reaction score
8,389
Location
West Indies [ Caribbean ]
USDA Zone
13
@Forsoothe! ,

or you forgot how much stronger beach sun is,
than inland, and this is Trinidad.
A tree for you.
Anthony

Branch poor , leaf rich.
Growing in a base of pure clay, the sand is just a covering.

seagrape tree.jpg
 

Anthony

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,290
Reaction score
8,389
Location
West Indies [ Caribbean ]
USDA Zone
13
@Forsoothe! ,

17 branches with 3 branchlets each and 1 or 2 leaves per branchlet=
51 to 102 leaves at 3 inches tall.

How many leaves does your tree produce ?
Anthony

*But it requires much care for a year and you burn out.
 
Top Bottom