Sealant after carving?

Matte91

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Hello.

Quick question.

Is it necessary to use any sealant after carving a deciduous tree? Perhaps lime sulphur?
It looks like Graham used some kind of sealant in this video.


Thank you in advance.
 

sorce

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If you want to protect a defined edge of life and death, you could attempt to do it with paste.

Most carve and let nature have at it.

Sorce
 

Tieball

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- I let a carving weather itself for the rest of the season and past my winter to the next Spring. This somewhat depends on the tree to me....and where the carving is located. Generally though, I like to dry the wood out well so it will accept a preservative if I apply it. When I apply I wait until spring is past and I’m into the summer heat and dryness opportunities. I get much better absorbtion.

- After carving I apply a cut paste to the live edge by the bark...right after the carving is completed....as soon as possible...especially if there is a good branch above that will create and continue an edge rollover. I sometimes use a finger, or a cotton tip, to rub-in a fine layer if paste on a live area as immediate as I can....usually while stepping back for a break to examine what I’m doing. If there’s no branch above to build the rollover I leave it exposed as the tree will create its own die back anyway....I may want the bark to dry back....and most likely there’s nothing I’m protecting. Out of habit, and perhaps uncertainty on my part, I almost always cut paste the edges. It works well for me. Sometimes new buds emerge near an edge if I carve into a live area. I’m sure many others will definitely say my use of cut paste is wasted and unnecessary. However, they are my trees.

- After a good season, or two seasons on some trees, I apply a wood preservative....because I want to do that. Applying the preserver also gives me a great opportunity to examine the carve and the wood remaining. I use a small artistic paint brush. I easily see if changes need to be made, if I have loose splinters of wood needing removal, have areas where water may to easily pool and create future problems, or have some very soft areas that need particular attention. I become more aware of the carving detail and care needed. I enjoy the application process....and see my results. The preservative usually darkens the carve for a few weeks before it all looks perfectly natural.

- My trees are all deciduous and live outside for rain, snow, ice, freezing and thawing, wind chills, heat, sun, wet and dry seasons and whatever happens in the climate. Carving is fully exposed to anything nature sends.

- The carved areas on trees that I have treated are stabilized....and the wood, and carving, stays solid and attractive. Is treatment a requirement? Probably not. Do I see it as a good practice? Yes. Does it look natural? Yes it does to me.
 

Japonicus

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@Tieball what preservative and sealer do you use?
I have a maple I will be drastically reducing this year and there is a rotted area
where leaves collected in the crotch over the last 10 years or so.
I may or may not deal with that area this year but would like to know what you like to use on yours :)
 

Tieball

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I use this product from http://www.kaizenbonsai.com
i have excellent results. I had some areas where there was really soft wood. I cleared away the softest and applied this preservative.
This year I am also going to experiment with a “special type of what could be called super glue. Not a gel...very watery” to apply to soft areas....my process will be to apply the glue after the preservative seasons a few days or weeks. Then, if needed, I brush the areas to remove any gloss that could be left.


A724003C-9DEB-4FCE-89DC-C2CC27B27BB6.jpeg9AD62982-127A-4D11-9995-3041DCBCDD20.jpeg
 

Tieball

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The glue I found best off Amazon and pack it in with other items I order for a free ride. I read up on the glues and this one landed as the best. Absorbs into wood really well and hardens the wood well. It’s in eBay also. I wanted to avoid any substitute...I will only order this glue....the super thin. Most regular super glues won’t penetrate deep enough.
 
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Japonicus

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I use this product from http://www.kaizenbonsai.com
i have excellent results. I had some areas where there was really soft wood. I cleared away the softest and applied this preservative.
This year I am also going to experiment with a “special type of what could be called super glue. Not a gel...very watery” to apply to soft areas....my process will be to apply the glue after the preservative seasons a few days or weeks. Then, if needed, I brush the areas to remove any gloss that could be left.
Thank you for the links!
 

Tieball

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The Kaizenbonsai search is not the best. Look under Bonsai supplies from the list at the bottom.
117D12EF-3E9C-4FE3-A87A-1A5688B354EF.jpeg
 

Matte91

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- I let a carving weather itself for the rest of the season and past my winter to the next Spring. This somewhat depends on the tree to me....and where the carving is located. Generally though, I like to dry the wood out well so it will accept a preservative if I apply it. When I apply I wait until spring is past and I’m into the summer heat and dryness opportunities. I get much better absorbtion.

- After carving I apply a cut paste to the live edge by the bark...right after the carving is completed....as soon as possible...especially if there is a good branch above that will create and continue an edge rollover. I sometimes use a finger, or a cotton tip, to rub-in a fine layer if paste on a live area as immediate as I can....usually while stepping back for a break to examine what I’m doing. If there’s no branch above to build the rollover I leave it exposed as the tree will create its own die back anyway....I may want the bark to dry back....and most likely there’s nothing I’m protecting. Out of habit, and perhaps uncertainty on my part, I almost always cut paste the edges. It works well for me. Sometimes new buds emerge near an edge if I carve into a live area. I’m sure many others will definitely say my use of cut paste is wasted and unnecessary. However, they are my trees.

- After a good season, or two seasons on some trees, I apply a wood preservative....because I want to do that. Applying the preserver also gives me a great opportunity to examine the carve and the wood remaining. I use a small artistic paint brush. I easily see if changes need to be made, if I have loose splinters of wood needing removal, have areas where water may to easily pool and create future problems, or have some very soft areas that need particular attention. I become more aware of the carving detail and care needed. I enjoy the application process....and see my results. The preservative usually darkens the carve for a few weeks before it all looks perfectly natural.

- My trees are all deciduous and live outside for rain, snow, ice, freezing and thawing, wind chills, heat, sun, wet and dry seasons and whatever happens in the climate. Carving is fully exposed to anything nature sends.

- The carved areas on trees that I have treated are stabilized....and the wood, and carving, stays solid and attractive. Is treatment a requirement? Probably not. Do I see it as a good practice? Yes. Does it look natural? Yes it does to me.

Thank you for a very good answer and for the link. Right now i'm using this sealant on tube. Do you think it will work too or should I use a cut paste for sealing the edges?

Do you think Graham used preserver for the tree in the video above?

Thank you in advance.
 

Tieball

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Thank you for a very good answer and for the link. Right now i'm using this sealant on tube. Do you think it will work too or should I use a cut paste for sealing the edges?

Do you think Graham used preserver for the tree in the video above?

Thank you in advance.
That is exactly the same sealer I use. I think it’s the best. And I like that it also turns a dark brown/black quickly and does not leave my fingers stained a color.

I've never seen that Graham uses a sealer. The video ends at the cleanup display after the chop or the carve.....sealer may not display well for his needs. Sealer is a hotly contested subject. Some use It. Some don’t. Some criticism it wildly as having no value. I use it. I’ve always believed in it. It has helped all of my trees rollover rather quickly. And prevents a whole lot of premature wood instability. On an average chop (not a carving) I rub on a think protective layer to the entire cut surface and it seems to maintain a good solid surface for the healing roll. Would that rollover happen without it. Maybe. Maybe not. I do what I do and it works well for me.

The item I don’t use is the putty. I’ve tried it. Did not work well for. Perhaps it’s my lack of use experience. However, I applied it with care and followed illustrations. It made a big mess on and in the rough bark of trees. So.....no more.

Sorry, I wasn’t paying attention and forgot to answer the sealer question you first asked. Oops.
 
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Matte91

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That is exactly the same sealer I use. I think it’s the best. And I like that it also turns a dark brown/black quickly and does not leave my fingers stained a color.

Perfect!

I've never seen that Graham uses a sealer. The video ends at the cleanup display after the chop or the carve.....sealer may not display well for his needs. Sealer is a hotly contested subject. Some use It. Some don’t. Some criticism it wildly as having no value. I use it. I’ve always believed in it. It has helped all of my trees rollover rather quickly. And prevents a whole lot of premature wood instability. On an average chop (not a carving) I rub on a think protective layer to the entire cut surface and it seems to maintain a good solid surface for the healing roll. Would that rollover happen without it. Maybe. Maybe not. I do what I do and it works well for me.

It just looked like the tree got some kind of sealing at the end of the video. But it probably hasn't. I don't know that much about carving yet. And yes, using sealer or not is a religion, just like wich soil to use for bonsai.

Sorry, I wasn’t paying attention and forgot to answer the sealer question you first asked. Oops.

No problem :)
 
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