Seasonal work!

[Lazylightningny]

Starting to get tip growth on my black pines. That tells me it’s time to apply the systemic fungal control Thiophanate-methyl (Cleary’s 3336, Bonide Infuse) for needle cast and tip blight. I use Bonide Infuse. I might be a week or two late with it this year. I sprinkled a little on the soil surface of all my pines. Next step is a liquid copper fungicide. I’ll apply that when the needles start to emerge from the extending candle. I’d guess I’ll do that in another week or two.

- S

This is a good reminder. Thank you.

 

[markyscott]

Once the shoots have extended in spring, it’s time for spring work. For me, this starts the busy season with deciduous trees. Today, I did a cutback and partial outer canopy defoliation of my big cedar elm and one of the trident maples. On the cedar elm, I also leaf pruned. No wiring on this tree as the basic branch structure is already in place. Process is different for trees in development - those are next, The point here is to leave the weak and interior growth alone so it could strengthen and reduce the foliage of the strong, extending, exterior shoots to weaken them and to allow light and air to the interior of the tree. I’m not done yet with the cedar elm - takes a while to cut all the exterior leaves in 1/2!

 

[markyscott]

Spring work on broadleaf tree in refinement.
1) pinch back new growth.
2) thin the foliage on the strong extending growth by removing leaves or cutting them in 1/2
3) if you hav an apical dominate tree, leave more foliage on the lower branches than the upper ones.
4) leave weak interior growth alone.
5) wire extending shoots if necessary

When you’re done your tree should be opened up, allowing light and air to the weak interior shoots and the density of shoots and leaves should be the lowest at the apex and the highest in the lower branches. Goal is to strengthen the weak and weaken the strong.

 

[Tidal Bonsai]

We had an unusually cold spring, so many of my deciduous trees haven’t even fully leafed out yet!

 

[markyscott]

We had an unusually cold spring, so many of my deciduous trees haven’t even fully leafed out yet!

Hang in there! It’s on the way!

 

[Carol 83]

Hang in there! It’s on the way!

Hopefully soon. Snow yesterday and 2 days of record low temps is enough!!!

 

[markyscott]

For me, working on deciduous trees in branch development is entirely different than working on trees in refinement. Goals are not ramification - they’re:
1) building branch caliper
2) building branch taper, and
3) building branch movement.

To build caliper, you must let them grow. To build taper and movement, you have to cut back and wire.

So, spring work on a broadleaf tree in branch development consists of:
1) cutting off interior leaves on extending shoots. This allows light and air into the interior of the tree, keeping weak interior shoots healthy
2) selecting shoots you want to keep for the basic branch structure and pruning off the others
3) pruning back to extending growth to create movement and taper
4) wiring shoots while they’re still green and flexible to establish the branch shape

Here’s a before and after on a trident maple in development:

 

[markyscott]

When I prune back to extending growth, I try, wherever possible, to prune to shoots growing upward. I keep the upward growing shoot and wire it down, creating an “M” shape. Pruning to downward facing shoots and wiring them up tends to produce a “W” shape instead. Although you can find examples of the latter in nature, I find the former more natural-looking. Of course, this is a guideline and not a rule, but I try to stick to it as much as possible. Here’s an example:

By pruning back to extending growth in this way, you create both movement and taper.

- S

 

[markyscott]

As you begin this process, it’s important to remember that you’re actually only going to keep the first ~1“ of wood on the branch. So on you’re very first wiring, you are just trying to establish the angle the branches exit from the trunk. I’m often asked - “Why is it important to wire beyond the wood you intend to keep?” - a valid question. I tend to fully wire the branches out for the following reasons. You can decide if any of these apply to you:
1) I like the tree to look as good as possible. Even when it’s in training.
2) I want the end growth to get light, but I don’t want it to shade out the interior growth. If I wire the branches out, I have a lot more control on how to place them
3) I have a lot of vertical space on my benches, but very little horizontal space. When I’m growing out branches on trees in development, I often let them extend several feet before cutting back. Since I don’t have several feet of bench space for every tree, I let them grow out beyond the point I want to cut back, then bend the shoots vertical and let them extend up. I can only do this if the shoots are fully wired out.

- S

 

[Tidal Bonsai]

European Hornbeam after pinching. First season in refinement since I have the structure and shape I am looking for.

 

[markyscott]

European Hornbeam after pinching. First season in refinement since I have the structure and shape I am looking for.

With respect, my advice would be to take your time before starting to pinch new growth. A common mistake that many make is that they tend to rush to the refinement stage and spend far too little time building branch structure. On deciduous trees, this can be a process that takes quite a number of years. Pinching will build twiggy growth at the branch ends, but the tree slows down significantly. Not specifically referring to your tree, but I often feel as though I look at many that have been diligently pinched and defoliated for years and I can only think that if it were mine, I’d probably be starting over. I’d aim for the following:

1. Primary branches built with movement and taper.
2. Primary branches should exit the trunk systematically - they should be at a lower angle toward the base and a progressively higher angle toward the apex
3. Primary branches should have the largest caliper on the lower part of the tree and they should decrease in caliper toward the apex.
4. Substantial taper on the lower branches - I like them to look mature
5. At a minimum, the secondary and tertiary ramification should be in place. Secondary branches should be thicker toward the trunk and thinner toward the apex.
6. A broad, dome shaped canopy

Once all that was built, I’d start pinching to build twiggy growth at the branch ends. On the elm above, I spent about 7 years building structure before I started pinching and, on that tree, I was not starting from zero. Some of my tridents have developed a bit faster - I have two I’ve started pinching and partial outer canopy defoliation. Those started from no branches and I had the structure in place after about 6 years or so. I’d also point out that I have a 10 month growing season here in Houston.

Anyway - that‘s my 2 cents, for what it’s worth.

- S

 

[Tidal Bonsai]

With respect, my advice would be to take your time before starting to pinch new growth. A common mistake that many make is that they tend to rush to the refinement stage and spend far too little time building branch structure. On deciduous trees, this can be a process that takes quite a number of years. Pinching will build twiggy growth at the branch ends, but the tree slows down significantly. Not specifically referring to your tree, but I often feel as though I look at many that have been diligently pinched and defoliated for years and I can only think that if it were mine, I’d probably be starting over. I’d aim for the following:

1. Primary branches built with movement and taper.
2. Primary branches should exit the trunk systematically - they should be at a lower angle toward the base and a progressively higher angle toward the apex
3. Primary branches should have the largest caliper on the lower part of the tree and they should decrease in caliper toward the apex.
4. Substantial taper on the lower branches - I like them to look mature
5. At a minimum, the secondary and tertiary ramification should be in place. Secondary branches should be thicker toward the trunk and thinner toward the apex.
6. A broad, dome shaped canopy

Once all that was built, I’d start pinching to build twiggy growth at the branch ends. On the elm above, I spent about 7 years building structure before I started pinching and, on that tree, I was not starting from zero. Some of my tridents have developed a bit faster - I have two I’ve started pinching and partial outer canopy defoliation. Those started from no branches and I had the structure in place after about 6 years or so. I’d also point out that I have a 10 month growing season here in Houston.

Anyway - that‘s my 2 cents, for what it’s worth.

- S

Thank you for your detailed response.

 

[markyscott]

Thank you for your detailed response.

Hope it was received positively. It was meant to be constructive but sometimes it’s hard to tell when people are looking for feedback and when they’re not and how such feedback will be taken no matter how carefully worded.

 

[markyscott]

Next trident in progress.

 

[markyscott]

Spring work finished.

 

[LanceMac10]

Spring work finished.
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I like what would seem to be a pre-determined front hidden amongst vigorous shoots in the last photo.....buuurpp...

 

[markyscott]

lOOKING THRU A FEW PAGES OF PREVIOUS POSTS AND PICTURES, THIS sweet FRONT POPPED OUT OF NOWHERE,


BBBUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUURP.......sorry


I like what would seem to be a pre-determined front hidden amongst vigorous shoots in the last photo.....buuurpp...

It’s there LM! What I saw when I dug the tree is starting to take shape. The chops I made are healing rapidly, but the big one in the back will take a few more seasons of strong growth to heal.

 

[markyscott]

As the weather is warming up, this is the time of year spider mites become really active in Houston. They don’t seem to bother the natives too much (California, One-seed or Ashe), but they love shImpaku. I tend not to spray preventively but I watch carefully this time of year and when I see them on one, I spray all my shimpaku. There are lots of insecticides people spray that are not effective at all. The best, as far as I’m concerned, contain bifenthren (some market products are Telstar, Bifen, Hi Yield Bug Blaster). Spray and then repeat 7-10 days later and the problem is typically gone (Although it can come back later in the year). Yesterday I noticed some on the shimpaku whips I was grafting on a california juniper trunk. So everything got a good bifen dousing.

S

 

[Gustavo Martins]

What I noticed here is that the main pest varies each year. Last year was white fly, the year before mealy bugs. This years seems to be aphids.

 

[Pj86]

As the weather is warming up, this is the time of year spider mites become really active in Houston. They don’t seem to bother the natives too much (California, One-seed or Ashe), but they love shImpaku. I tend not to spray preventively but I watch carefully this time of year and when I see them on one, I spray all my shimpaku. There are lots of insecticides people spray that are not effective at all. The best, as far as I’m concerned, contain bifenthren (some market products are Telstar, Bifen, Hi Yield Bug Blaster). Spray and then repeat 7-10 days later and the problem is typically gone (Although it can come back later in the year). Yesterday I noticed some on the shimpaku whips I was grafting on a california juniper trunk. So everything got a good bifen dousing.

S

What do you use for aphids?