Seiju elms

[Shibui]

Just wanted to show what can be achieved with Seiju variety of Chinese elm.

Feel free to add any more examples of bonsai using this variety.

Seiju has smallish leaf size so suits small size bonsai.


Attempt at deciduous elm literati


Even smaller Seiju. This one only a couple of years from a root cutting

 

[Shibui]

Another small broom style seiju. Also from a root cutting.


The dark, corky bark also suits larger bonsai. This one is still not real big but gives some idea of the good scale of small leaves on a larger trunk. Probably also grown from root cutting but not certain of the origins. It may even have spent a few years in the grow beds.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Very nice. Just a couple Seiju elms will keep you busy with scissors.

 

[JonW]

Beautiful! I have a twin-trunk in development. I just did a trunk chop on both trunks because the main one was like a steam-pipe: straight with no taper. I also transitioned it to bonsai soil and put it in a big air-pruning put where it can grow and thicken up for a few years while I re-grow the top. They are a fun variety - I've had to return a couple times with tweezers to remove buds from crotches and places I don't need new growth. I'll probably post a pic ones it puts on summer of its spring / summer growth - it is just leafing out.

 

[coltranem]

I bought two as my second or third bonsai purchase 4 years ago. I have lots of cuttings now (both root and standard. I am having trouble getting the roots in order. It seems like one always wants to take over. I am about to repot last years cuttings. We'll see how those go.

 

[Shibui]

I am having trouble getting the roots in order. It seems like one always wants to take over. I am about to repot last years cuttings. We'll see how those go.

A few thick roots seems to be standard for all Chinese elm varieties. I have found that ruthless root pruning in the early years makes a big difference and can help produce a much more satisfactory nebari. New roots will usually grow from the cut ends when thick roots are pruned. If I have a thicker root I cut it right near the trunk. The result is nearly always a mass of smaller roots. With lots of roots there is far less tendency for one to take off and enlarge unduly so keep root pruning and see what happens.

 

[Bonsaidoorguy]

I have one that has a lot of reverse taper on most of the branches and am planning on doing some pretty good size cuts. My question is, buds are just starting to swell, if I make the cuts will the pieces root easily? I'd like to end up with a few new freebies.

 

[Enfield Snapper]

How long does it take to develop a trunk like these? I got a small one last year that was propagated as a small cutting, but I don't really have an idea of how long a project it will be.

 

[Shibui]

I have one that has a lot of reverse taper on most of the branches and am planning on doing some pretty good size cuts. My question is, buds are just starting to swell, if I make the cuts will the pieces root easily? I'd like to end up with a few new freebies.

I get better strike rate when cuttings are not starting to grow. That gives them time to callus and start roots before they have to supply water to new foliage.
There is always a chance of striking cuttings if you have everything come together so if now is pruning time I would still put the pieces in as cuttings. What's the worst than can happen? At best you may even get some to strike. Nothing ventured.......

 

[Shibui]

How long does it take to develop a trunk like these?

Are you referring to the trees shown at the start of the thread?
The smaller ones are only 3-5 years old. The larger shohins are much older but probably achieved that trunk size in around 5 years or so?
Pretty sure the final tree was in the grow beds for 3 years to grow that size trunk then another 3-4 years to get the branches and ramification happening.

Early trunk thickening tends to be frustratingly slow but after a few years mine suddenly start to add girth quite quick so don't give up too quick.

 

[coltranem]

A few thick roots seems to be standard for all Chinese elm varieties. I have found that ruthless root pruning in the early years makes a big difference and can help produce a much more satisfactory nebari. New roots will usually grow from the cut ends when thick roots are pruned. If I have a thicker root I cut it right near the trunk. The result is nearly always a mass of smaller roots. With lots of roots there is far less tendency for one to take off and enlarge unduly so keep root pruning and see what happens.

Thanks @Shibui I think I will work the roots hard yearly until I get a nice set of roots. Then I camln worry about trunk thickness.

 

[Enfield Snapper]

Are you referring to the trees shown at the start of the thread?
The smaller ones are only 3-5 years old. The larger shohins are much older but probably achieved that trunk size in around 5 years or so?
Pretty sure the final tree was in the grow beds for 3 years to grow that size trunk then another 3-4 years to get the branches and ramification happening.

Early trunk thickening tends to be frustratingly slow but after a few years mine suddenly start to add girth quite quick so don't give up too quick.

Thanks. I was interested in the smaller ones, mostly. I'm happy to hear that yours were not super long projects. They look fantastic. How thick can a branch be and still get it to root as a cutting?

 

[Shibui]

How thick can a branch be and still get it to root as a cutting?

How good are your conditions and how good are you at rooting cuttings?
There's no set rule for cutting size. Normally around pencil thick is recommended, probably because that's likely to be young wood which roots easier. The older the wood the more difficult to produce roots. I have not tried anything over around 3/4 inch thick but it is possible. You won't know until you have tried.

 

[leatherback]

You won't know until you have tried.