Selecting material for root over rock (or skull)

Woocash

Omono
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I dig the idea too....i have a young buck skull too, but the antlers are much thinner.
I won't steal your idea though.

Its gonna be tough to pull off.
The skull will have to appear very large, like that of a "huge dragon".
The tree will have to be small, but the roots will have to grow out to be able to be sorted into and around the skull.
With that said, I would say you may want to consider a tree that can be chopped back ruthlessly.....Chinese Elm....
Steal away man. It’s not my idea! More examples means more reference anyway :)

I’ve pretty much got my composition theorised now anyway and the antlers will be a big part of it. I want the tree to be an extension of them, particularly the broken one. Like you say, a smaller sized tree, just to emphasise the shapes rather than take over the skull entirely.
 

Woocash

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Best species for root over rock are the ones that have roots that grow relatively quickly and thicken so they will merge with the rock/object.
The best I've used are Ficus rubiginosa (but probably many other ficus too) and trident maple. I've seen other people with figs on strange objects that are reminders of the ficus that grow in the ancient temple ruins of Asia where they cover walls and statues.
I have seen a few reasonable Chinese elm ROR but the roots don't seem to spread like the tridents and figs.
I have a couple of pines ROR but again, roots are slow and don't seem to spread out over the surface as well.
You could try privet as it is quite hardy and the roots should grow relatively fast and strong.
Hawthorn probably doesn't have the best roots for ROR but you may be able to get the first good one. As mentioned, to get a good result you really need to start with young, flexible roots so they will conform to the contours. Try to avoid threading roots through holes unless you want a short term ROR. As the roots thicken they exert enormous pressure and will split your skull into pieces if they grow through small holes.
Yea, I’m not finding many examples of ROR hawthorn, but I’ve got a gazillion little saplings growing like weeds around here so hopefully I can find one diamond in amongst them as @sorce said above rather than trying to just make one particular tree work. That’s a fair point about not poking through the holes. I had possibly thought about trying to put one through the eye socket because they’re pretty big but we’ll see.
 

sorce

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Plant Dem haw seeds.

I'm so happy I did!

Sorce
 

Woocash

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Plant Dem haw seeds.

I'm so happy I did!

Sorce
Seriously, no need - nature does it for me around here! Haws are one of my favourite trees. Really versatile and a plant for all seasons.
 

sorce

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nature does it for me around here!

It may the the only one I haven't found as a sapling.
I was surprised to think it, especially after how easy I was able to sprout Them.

Sorce
 

Woocash

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Strange, are they Cretaegus monogyna? They self seed like nobody’s business in the UK ’cause they fruit so prolifically and the birds don't eat the pips. I even see them growing parasitically in willows and others fairly commonly too. Four trees you are guaranteed to find saplings of if there are mature ones nearby are Ash, Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus, not your American sycamore), field maple and hawthorn. Shame only two are typically decent for bonsai.
 

crust

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I maintain numerous RO bone compositions. One of the real issues when planting root over bone is that bone breaks down, this requires ongoing cleaning and periodic applications of epoxy. I have found untreated bones or skulls start really degrading after a decade. For me, I have found that pretreating it initially is important. I dry out the bone and make sure it's free of organics, sometimes I microwave, sometimes I bleach some, then, once bone dry( haha) I soak it with penetrating epoxy, topping with thicker and thicker epoxy, and dab it enough to keep it from being glossy. I use professional type epoxy (West Systems) make your own penetrating epoxy by thinning this with acetone enough to get it to soak in then let it set-up good and do it again. Then let it cure all the way so volatiles from the epoxy doesn't bother the plant. This is the easy part. Ongoing maintenance is trickier, I wait until a droughty time when the bone is really dry, protect the soil with aluminum foil and them clean the bone of algae stains if you get them--watered mixes of peroxide and or bleach used judiciously work well then let it dry in the sun, now you have to be very careful and have an arsenal of swabs and squirters and dabbers ready, make up your penetrating epoxy mix and go over the piece like before--I have used acrylic wood hardener (PC wood hardener) for this, which is less toxic and easier but the real epoxy clearly last much longer. I go over the pieces every 5-8 years really paying attention to anything touching the soil( which I excavate and dry out well before treating). Hope that helps--Oh and don't slap a plant on the skull unplanned and without plenty of assembly time. You really have to work to a higher standard when doing avant-garde scrutinizing position and attitude. Art is art, be awesome. Good luck. IMG_1972.JPG
 

TN_Jim

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I maintain numerous RO bone compositions. One of the real issues when planting root over bone is that bone breaks down, this requires ongoing cleaning and periodic applications of epoxy. I have found untreated bones or skulls start really degrading after a decade. For me, I have found that pretreating it initially is important. I dry out the bone and make sure it's free of organics, sometimes I microwave, sometimes I bleach some, then, once bone dry( haha) I soak it with penetrating epoxy, topping with thicker and thicker epoxy, and dab it enough to keep it from being glossy. I use professional type epoxy (West Systems) make your own penetrating epoxy by thinning this with acetone enough to get it to soak in then let it set-up good and do it again. Then let it cure all the way so volatiles from the epoxy doesn't bother the plant. This is the easy part. Ongoing maintenance is trickier, I wait until a droughty time when the bone is really dry, protect the soil with aluminum foil and them clean the bone of algae stains if you get them--watered mixes of peroxide and or bleach used judiciously work well then let it dry in the sun, now you have to be very careful and have an arsenal of swabs and squirters and dabbers ready, make up your penetrating epoxy mix and go over the piece like before--I have used acrylic wood hardener (PC wood hardener) for this, which is less toxic and easier but the real epoxy clearly last much longer. I go over the pieces every 5-8 years really paying attention to anything touching the soil( which I excavate and dry out well before treating). Hope that helps--Oh and don't slap a plant on the skull unplanned and without plenty of assembly time. You really have to work to a higher standard when doing avant-garde scrutinizing position and attitude. Art is art, be awesome. Good luck. View attachment 275084
much gratitude

phenomenal
 

Woocash

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I maintain numerous RO bone compositions. One of the real issues when planting root over bone is that bone breaks down, this requires ongoing cleaning and periodic applications of epoxy. I have found untreated bones or skulls start really degrading after a decade. For me, I have found that pretreating it initially is important. I dry out the bone and make sure it's free of organics, sometimes I microwave, sometimes I bleach some, then, once bone dry( haha) I soak it with penetrating epoxy, topping with thicker and thicker epoxy, and dab it enough to keep it from being glossy. I use professional type epoxy (West Systems) make your own penetrating epoxy by thinning this with acetone enough to get it to soak in then let it set-up good and do it again. Then let it cure all the way so volatiles from the epoxy doesn't bother the plant. This is the easy part. Ongoing maintenance is trickier, I wait until a droughty time when the bone is really dry, protect the soil with aluminum foil and them clean the bone of algae stains if you get them--watered mixes of peroxide and or bleach used judiciously work well then let it dry in the sun, now you have to be very careful and have an arsenal of swabs and squirters and dabbers ready, make up your penetrating epoxy mix and go over the piece like before--I have used acrylic wood hardener (PC wood hardener) for this, which is less toxic and easier but the real epoxy clearly last much longer. I go over the pieces every 5-8 years really paying attention to anything touching the soil( which I excavate and dry out well before treating). Hope that helps--Oh and don't slap a plant on the skull unplanned and without plenty of assembly time. You really have to work to a higher standard when doing avant-garde scrutinizing position and attitude. Art is art, be awesome. Good luck. View attachment 275084
Thank you so much. That’s filled in several blanks for me. Am I right in thinking you don’t actually soak it in the epoxy like a bath, you just dab it on until it doesn’t take any more? This skull has already been out in the elements for a few years I think so a lot of the inner structure around the nasal cavity has broken down. It’s still sound overall though so I’m confident its strong enough. I just want to make sure it stands the test of time.

That’s a very cool piece btw. Looks like a spinal cord has just been removed!
 
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