semi cascade pussywillow, styling needed, and advice on deadwood maintenance

youngsai

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So this is a pussywillow of mine, I really like the deadwood on it but its corky in texture and I'm worried about it's longevity so I'd like to protect it (pf petrifier maybe?). Originally the branch now wired down was up above the top jin, but I very slightly bumped it and termites had ripped into the deadwood so much it slid right off and sealed it's fate to be wired down. I do not really like it now, I do not know what angle to choose as I do not like the way the branch looks at its curve point. Any advice on that area where the curves concentrated and other general advice would be awesome. Also, pot choice advice.

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youngsai

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Here are pictures of it now (those where from the beginning of spring). The last picture is an angles I think could work, if no solution to make that branch viewable exists.

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october

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Here are pictures of it now (those where from the beginning of spring). The last picture is an angles I think could work, if no solution to make that branch viewable exists.

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I like the first pic, in this succession, as the front. The trunk has a sort of spiral shari which is very nice. As far as treating the dead wood, you can use lime sulfur. It comes in small bottles and you can find it at bonsai nurseries or probably on line. You can paint it on with a small paint brush. Use nylon brushes. Nylon is resistant to the lime sulfur. You can use it full strength or cut it in half with water.

When you apply the lime sulfur, put something over the soil surface so it does not drip into the soil. Also, read the label, you should wear gloves and breathing protection. Also be careful not to get any on the foliage or the trunk that does not have deadwood.

Let the lime sulfur dry for about 24 hours before you shower off the tree.

I hope this is helpful.

Rob
 

tmmason10

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Judging by the pictures and join date, I don't think you are a novice and know of lime sulfur. I don't think this will help extend the life of your deadwood as you are asking, and while I've never used it I have read people who use mi wax wood hardener to help preserve deadwood that is really rotten. Someone else may have a better suggestion though so I'll leave you with that.
 

youngsai

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Thank you for your response. While I have applied Lime sulfur, the deadwood continues to rot heavily, in spots where the deadwood hits the nebari, the wood is soft as butter and comes off from a touch. It could use another coat as bugs are starting to make their back in.

So I (think) I needa heavy duty hardener, which I dont really know about. Any advice on the styling though? Which Front do you prefer?
 

Brian Van Fleet

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I use PC Petrifier. It is water based, and requires several coats. Be sure the deadwood color is what you want before you apply it. It dries shiny, but a little light sanding helps remove the shine.
 

youngsai

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I will be purchasing PC petrifier, thank you kindly, will the petrifier work to keep out bugs as well? I'm having some termite issues again. Does $8 for 8 oz sound right?

October, does the curve of the bottom branch bother you or not?
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Price sounds right, but I don't know about the bug issues. You might want to paint on some insecticide first...?
 

october

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I will be purchasing PC petrifier, thank you kindly, will the petrifier work to keep out bugs as well? I'm having some termite issues again. Does $8 for 8 oz sound right?

October, does the curve of the bottom branch bother you or not?

It does bother me a little. However, the other side, the shari work does not look natural. I think that in time, you can get the foliage to hide that curve in the branch that is bothering you. However, with the other side and the driftwood. That will always be present. I think this is a situation of the lesser of 2 evils, imo.

Others might have different opinions. At the nursery, we sometimes see trees with this sort of deadwood, for the most part, it is considered unnatural and not that appealing.

Rob
 

youngsai

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Thanks for your advice. I'm curious about why you think this type of deadwood looks unnatural or is unappealing? Is it fixable?
 

october

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It is not bad. However, a tree in nature that has been through much hardship probably would not perfectly die/create deadwood the same width all the way up the trunk and smoothly. There would be some irregularities. Traces of broken branches, some still living veins/vein and probably differently shaped deadwood pieces. Also, shari on both sizes does not leave the tree very much to live on. Sometimes, we change our minds or decide to create a different side of shari than before. In this case, then there would be shari on both sides.

Rob
 
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youngsai

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this is actually natural, the only living part of this tree are the two veins running up the sides of the shari. I do not know if this is common for pussywillow or what, but this oneis natural, the only shari work I did was clean out the rotten wood and sharpen the top edge.
 

october

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this is actually natural, the only living part of this tree are the two veins running up the sides of the shari. I do not know if this is common for pussywillow or what, but this oneis natural, the only shari work I did was clean out the rotten wood and sharpen the top edge.

We might not be talking about the same area. I am not referring to the bottom or base of the tree. That looks nice and natural. I am talking about the section right above that continues to the top. I would imagine that section was man made.

I have seen a couple of trees with shari like this. They were done by hand.

Here is a virt with the area I am talking about.

Rob

 

youngsai

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oh ok, the carving is man-made. I had terrible power tools with which to use, and only really tested the waters with what I had. So i just removed what was rotted (which was concentrated on the other side) and messed around a bit (on the front). I plan on doing a more thorough job next spring, when I decide and commit to a style.

Just for clarity, the actual shari itself was already present, I only carved into what already existed using tools, however by the time I got the tree, that shari already existed with only the 2 veins on either side. However, I cannot speak for what happened before I got the tree.
 
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Brian Van Fleet

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Consider letting it all weather, age, and even rot a little before applying anything to it. Nature can have a way of making that deadwood more natural all by itself!

An aside, several of us have talked about PC Petrifier and the shine it adds. Here is an example. I'll sand it later, but here is how it looks, freshly applied to the Shari/uro of a cherry. it is dry in these shots:
 

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youngsai

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That looks awesome, and your saying the sheen it gives off will go away with sanding? I think that might stand out negatively on such a large shari, but obviously not if it can be sanded out in the future. I thought about letting it age and rot naturally, but i think the problem may be that the back of the shari is aging far more than the front, leaving the front as you see it but the back well aged and cool looking. By the time the front catches up I'm afraid the back will be non-existent.

Maybe only apply the petrifier to the back, and let the front age? is that possible or will seep into the cork-like wood and petrify the front regardless?
 

Brian Van Fleet

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I'd let the large, flatter section age some, and apply Petrifier where the shape/texture is where you want it.

The Petrifier isn't penetrating enough to cause those problems. I've used it on many model rocket fins; 1/8" thick balsa and it soaks in and not through. With a few repeated costs, it hardens them up pretty nicely.
 

youngsai

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killed this tree also, this one really really slammed home the fact that I need to lock down the horticultural side.
 

Beng

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:( that stinks... do you know why it died? I don't know anything about pussywillow but most trees go dormant right now and loose all their leaves. You sure it's not just sleeping for the winter?
 
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