Shaping of trees while growing in the ground (privet example)

[Soup Dragon]

I planted a few privet cuttings in the ground a couple of years ago, and have let them grow to thicken them up without doing much other than to cut off branches in places where they would cause inverse taper. I think that I am at the point where I would like to start giving them their 'final' shape so that the scars of the big cuts I will need to make can heal, as much as possible, before they are put into a pot.

My question is: "how would you approach selecting a final shape for the trunk when you know you have as long as you need to let it grow, but it would be nice to have something in a pot in a couple of years?" Using the example below, would you choose an existing branch structure, and if so would it be the yellow line or the red line, or something else? Or, would you chop the trunk regardless of existing branches and choose the best leader that emerges?



Thanks!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

You can simply “draw” a trunk line by pruning away everything else. On your example, I would probably keep the trunk line in blue, and prune at the red lines. I would keep that thin branch in place and allow it to thicken a little as the last trunk section next year while the chops heal.

 

[Soup Dragon]

Thanks Brian - much appreciated. I wasn't sure that there was enough taper in the current trunk to keep it as it is, but if you think that it looks alright then that is certainly good enough for me!

I see the branch to use as the last trunk section. Thanks for taking the time to illustrate.

 

[BobbyLane]

i think one issue is that this section has already been allowed to get too thick, it would be ok if the trunk under the red line was much thicker and flaring, it may be better to keep the side bits and layer at red line.
there is always more than one option usually.

 

[BobbyLane]

heres a field maple im developing in the ground

Field growing a Field maple

just a few shots to document how fast the leader can grow on a field maple in growing bed as i was saying to @peterbone space of a few weeks, chop was made in spring

www.bonsainut.com

my goal is different, i would much rather keep the thick side bits. i think again this sort of thing comes down to what styles you like.

 

[Soup Dragon]

Thanks Bobby. I was hoping that the first branch on the right would have thickened the first section, but it doesn't seem to have done that. One thing that I have learned from growing these cuttings is that where there are major branch junctions there is a real danger of inverse taper, and that is it hard for the section below to thicken up to correct this. It seems to be a privet thing. Layering looks like a good option.

 

[Soup Dragon]

heres a field maple im developing in the ground

Field growing a Field maple

just a few shots to document how fast the leader can grow on a field maple in growing bed as i was saying to @peterbone space of a few weeks, chop was made in spring

www.bonsainut.com

my goal is different, i would much rather keep the thick side bits. i think again this sort of thing comes down to what styles you like.

Nice! Another very interesting option. Thanks for this.

 

[BobbyLane]

Nice! Another very interesting option. Thanks for this.

its an option if you have a base. i think your better option is to have a trunk that splits in 3 and layer near red line so its more clumpy but with a defined middle trunk and two others left n right.

 

[Ininaatigoons]

Why not go for the gold and keep the lower branch as the new leader? This would put serious movement and taper in. Long time to heal, but you said you had time.