Sharpes pygmy maple

Gaijin

Sapling
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I have been wanting a broom style tree, so I purchased this sharpe's pygmy JM recently. Overall I'm happy with what I got, but I'm looking for ideas for improvement.
Getting it out of the Brussels soil is first up. After that, I'm thinking of putting it in pond basket with boons mix, and a 'ebihara board' screwed to the base.

I have question with regard to branch structure. What are opinions with regard to the branching? Should I cut all branches back to 3 inches as has be recommend by MR @Adair M to MR @moke in regard to a previous thread on broom style? I have thought about this...and also think about layering the entire trunk off right above the graft. It is not bad graft, buy has a slight inverse taper. Is this reasonable thing to do? Is there a method to even out the inverse taper? Of course if I layer trunk I don't need to work about pond basket with ebihara board.2ubu7Y2QSsiAzjcDcCKbng.jpg

But I would appreciate opinions. Thank youDfbp8ux+TwmGw1Y2OQ+e5w.jpg
 

j evans

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I like the tree. That kind of decision is over my head but I'd just shorten the branches and make it more compact for lack of a better word.
 

Adair M

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Sharpe’s are fairly slow growing, so any major pruning will take a while to grow back out.
So, what it comes down to is do you want something that looks reasonably good now, or something that will look really good in 5 or 6 years?

I know you spent a good chunk of money on that, and the thought of cutting 70% of what’s there off is a tough nut to swallow!

Doing a hard cut back to eliminate or shorten those long taperless branches is needed to build a really high quality tree. However... I can’t see the reserve taper issue you spoke of. If it’s severe, it might not be fixable, and if it’s not, you’ll never have a “really nice” tree. If that’s the case, doing the hard cutback and working hard over the next half decade might not be worth it. Perhaps a light cutback and just enjoying what you have is the best way to enjoy this tree.

The tree as it is right now (with regular trimming) is pleasing. On another thread, someone was comparing bonsai trees with show dogs. I’d call this one AKC registered “pet quality”. Lol!!! Certainly not a mutt.
 

Pitoon

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Nice looking tree, but I think it would look better placed in a shallower pot maybe a nice oval?
 

MrWunderful

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I wouldnt put it in a colander, maybe an anderson flat or shallow pot.
Boons mix might be too dry in a more shallow pot, maybe go all akadama or 3:1:1. Just my opinion.
 

MACH5

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I agree that it needs a major cut back. I would do this gradually as Sharp’s can have an adverse reaction to major cut backs. The air layering
process can also take longer than with a regular A. palmatum. Do one or the other but don’t chop and layer at the same time.
 

Gaijin

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Sharpe’s are fairly slow growing, so any major pruning will take a while to grow back out.
So, what it comes down to is do you want something that looks reasonably good now, or something that will look really good in 5 or 6 years?

I know you spent a good chunk of money on that, and the thought of cutting 70% of what’s there off is a tough nut to swallow!

Doing a hard cut back to eliminate or shorten those long taperless branches is needed to build a really high quality tree. However... I can’t see the reserve taper issue you spoke of. If it’s severe, it might not be fixable, and if it’s not, you’ll never have a “really nice” tree. If that’s the case, doing the hard cutback and working hard over the next half decade might not be worth it. Perhaps a light cutback and just enjoying what you have is the best way to enjoy this tree.

The tree as it is right now (with regular trimming) is pleasing. On another thread, someone was comparing bonsai trees with show dogs. I’d call this one AKC registered “pet quality”. Lol!!! Certainly not a mutt.
I will digest this information. Thank you, and everyone else for responding.
I think I may end up with "pet quality".
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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All in all, not a bad tree.

It is grafted, but the graft is very nicely healed, it is not obvious. The "inverse taper" you see at that point is really minimal, easily ignored.

Myself, I'd go for the "pet quality". Don't bother with the air layer. Don't put it in a colander, find a nice somewhat wider, somewhat more shallow, oval or round pot to repot into. Do not use a dry conifer mix, like the Boon mix. It will be too dry. Maples like a moisture retentive mix, if you want use a mix with significant Akadama, or Kanuma, or if you don't have Japanese dirt on hand, use a significant (say 25% or more) composted fir bark or composted pine bark. Maples like moisture retentive mixes.
 

Gaijin

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All in all, not a bad tree.

It is grafted, but the graft is very nicely healed, it is not obvious. The "inverse taper" you see at that point is really minimal, easily ignored.

Myself, I'd go for the "pet quality". Don't bother with the air layer. Don't put it in a colander, find a nice somewhat wider, somewhat more shallow, oval or round pot to repot into. Do not use a dry conifer mix, like the Boon mix. It will be too dry. Maples like a moisture retentive mix, if you want use a mix with significant Akadama, or Kanuma, or if you don't have Japanese dirt on hand, use a significant (say 25% or more) composted fir bark or composted pine bark. Maples like moisture retentive mixes.
Thanks for the reply. I've decided on "pet quality" and will do what you and others have advised. I've ordered some hard akadama for the task, and some hyuga and black lava. I'm guessing that was what the other gentleman meant when he said "3:1:1" Akadama, pumice, lava. I have a large Anderson flat, but I may just go ahead and pot it as you mentioned. Thinking of a cream colored oval.
 

MrWunderful

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Thanks for the reply. I've decided on "pet quality" and will do what you and others have advised. I've ordered some hard akadama for the task, and some hyuga and black lava. I'm guessing that was what the other gentleman meant when he said "3:1:1" Akadama, pumice, lava. I have a large Anderson flat, but I may just go ahead and pot it as you mentioned. Thinking of a cream colored oval.

yes, 3 parts akadama, 1 part pumice, 1 part lava
 

ml_work

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On another thread, someone was comparing bonsai trees with show dogs. I’d call this one AKC registered “pet quality”. Lol!!! Certainly not a mutt.
I read this last night and it kept coming back to mind all day. This makes a lot of sense for many of us on this forum. There are many on this forum that produce high quality show trees (some of them have replied to the OP) that we all look at their trees and strive to someday have such a tree. At the same time we have no plans of ever attempting to enter a tree in anything beyond a local club showing, if that. It is very confusing to us when we finally spend what we feel is a lot of money, on what we feel is a pretty nice tree. When ask for advice we get the chop and cut it back to a short nub if you really want a nice tree. Please do not get me wrong, I am not saying that advice is not correct and if we ask for advice, we should be prepared to hear every suggestion . It is just hard to make that cut and start the tree over, when we thought it was pretty good as is. We struggle with the suggestion since it comes from the people that know what they are doing, from the trees we see they have done, but wonder will we be able to do it. When all we really wanted was that pet quality dog that would greet us at the door when we come home or the medium tree out on the deck that greets us, looks pretty good to us and excites us when we see the tiny new leaves coming out no matter where they are. The pet quality dog that may just do a trick when company comes by or the medium tree that impresses our company and gives us the chance to introduce them to Bonsai.
Not to say we would not like to have the high breed dog, but because of budget, time, location or resources, we just settle for "Harvey" Happy to see us.
 

Johnnyd

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I think its a little like investing in stocks. You need to have abrupt declines , cutting back, to make meaninful progress , IMHO.
I have a 'pet' quality Sharp's pygmy that I enjoyed for a few years before making an investment in it's progress. No pictures now because it is not pretty.
I wonder how many deciduous people enjoy investing?
 
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Adair M

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I read this last night and it kept coming back to mind all day. This makes a lot of sense for many of us on this forum. There are many on this forum that produce high quality show trees (some of them have replied to the OP) that we all look at their trees and strive to someday have such a tree. At the same time we have no plans of ever attempting to enter a tree in anything beyond a local club showing, if that. It is very confusing to us when we finally spend what we feel is a lot of money, on what we feel is a pretty nice tree. When ask for advice we get the chop and cut it back to a short nub if you really want a nice tree. Please do not get me wrong, I am not saying that advice is not correct and if we ask for advice, we should be prepared to hear every suggestion . It is just hard to make that cut and start the tree over, when we thought it was pretty good as is. We struggle with the suggestion since it comes from the people that know what they are doing, from the trees we see they have done, but wonder will we be able to do it. When all we really wanted was that pet quality dog that would greet us at the door when we come home or the medium tree out on the deck that greets us, looks pretty good to us and excites us when we see the tiny new leaves coming out no matter where they are. The pet quality dog that may just do a trick when company comes by or the medium tree that impresses our company and gives us the chance to introduce them to Bonsai.
Not to say we would not like to have the high breed dog, but because of budget, time, location or resources, we just settle for "Harvey" Happy to see us.
And Sharpes Pigmy has a lot of attributes that make it easier to have an attractive bonsai without having to be an expert. That’s one of the benefits of choosing good material to work with.
 

cchpg29

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I don't know much about conifers, but colander pots for maples is not a good option.
I am interested to hear why Colander pots for maples are not a good option?
 

Forsoothe!

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Thank God that very occasionally this forum makes sense. Buying a nice tree like this and getting advice to stump it out and begin a 100 year process to make it the perfect tree drives me nuts. I see the potato beginning of this eon-long process, time after time, and all it ever produces is potatoes with leaves. The helmet. And scars. Is there one other possession that we apply this kind of logic to? Time is one of THE most important things we own and it's temporary and perishable and unpredictable.

For those who want to go from stump to whatever destination and have the time and skill, or are willing to attain those skills over time, I say go ahead and stump. But that takes a dedication I rarely see, and again, I rarely see an outcome worth the candle. And it doesn't take a nice tree to begin with, do it with an ugly stick!

A much better approach to obtaining that perfect tree is to start from a young tree, even a seedling, and applying the same dedication and time and learning, and be rewarded every day you look at a pretty little youngster getting better and bigger every year.
 
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