Sharps Pygmy Feedback Request

Cdcurnick

Seedling
Messages
20
Reaction score
19
Location
Washington DC
USDA Zone
7a
I picked up this tree back at the PBA festival at the National Bonsai Foundation in DC a while back. This photo was taken just after removing most of the wire on the tree that was cutting into the bark, and unfortunately the branches up top didn’t set well.

E924AA28-BD0F-496F-A6F2-A2C67111410A.jpeg

Looking for feedback on ways to improve the tree. currently using that large copper wire and guy wire to pull down that branch a bit- the large wire is really just to connect the guy wire to as I had no tubing on hand to use to protect the bark.

The biggest thing for me is how straight the primary branches are. Is it worth it to cut them back to better develop movement in them? Or is trying to encourage backbudding on the interior parts of the primary branches and using them to grow/add movement to the branches a better way to go?


I’m kinda thinking of something like this:
38C21068-EC34-4F18-AF53-0907D7C9A64B.jpeg
 

Hack Yeah!

Omono
Messages
1,654
Reaction score
3,293
Location
Marietta, GA
USDA Zone
7b
I would consider a smaller tree, maybe layer the top if you have the patience or want more material. Nice start, best of luck.
Screenshot_20220804-180758_Chrome.jpg
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,657
Reaction score
15,451
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
The dwarf maples are usually very slow to grow and develop so don't expect quick results with this tree.
Unfortunately straight branches and trunks seem to be a consequence of trying to get a tree to size or sale quickly and are all too common in JM 'bonsai'.
JM branches are also notoriously brittle so very hard to get more than small bends with wire. By far the best way to develop good, natural looking bends is by cut and grow occasionally aided with wiring new, flexible shoots. Unfortunately with slower growing dwarf types that is likely to take quite a few years to do.
I guess you'll need to decide whether you want something a bit quicker OR want something really good. I don't know any way to get both from this material.

Because the main trunk is quite straight it's probably not really appropriate to have branches with pronounced bends so really hard pruning may not be required. better ramification may be enough to give a reasonably presentable tree.
To get more shoots on some of the bare, lower branches you'll need to suppress the hormones coming from the apex as those suppress lower growth. To this end, prune the excess apex and thin remaining apical growth as much as you dare. The apex will always grow back quicker than lower branches so it won't take long to thicken up again but the interruption should give some lower branches a chance to get started.
Selective defoliation can also be used to activate and strengthen lower branches. Make sure the tree is healthy before attempting defoliation though. It may be a little late in your season this year but next year you could try defoliating the apex and some stronger, upper branches. That should give the lower ones a boost and may activate some new shoots down there.
 
Top Bottom