Shimpaku Juniper - first styling

GrampaMoses

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I'm normally a deciduous guy, but I got this nice shimpaku at a local club auction 2 years ago. All I've done in that 2 years is slip pot it into a deeper pot and let it grow. I read through Harry Harrington's guides on thinning out foliage and wiring junipers, but this is only my second attempt styling one myself. I had no instructor helping me, but I spent 4 hours thinning out the foliage, removing a few odd branches, fixing cross branches, limiting spots that had 3+ branches to just 2, and wiring every branch into position. Wiring the tiny branches with 1mm wire really tested my patience, but for better or worse, I finished it. I tried my best to layer the foliage to create pads, but it was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be.

20200228_161800.jpg
Before

20200301_140933.jpg
After

20200301_140950.jpg
Overhead / wiring closeup

So please! Let me know where I can improve. Any thoughts/ideas for the future of this tree. Mistakes that I made. Etc.
 

sorce

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I'd consider removing the middle trunk and tilting further left.
In time.

Sorce
 

GrampaMoses

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I'd consider removing the middle trunk and tilting further left.
In time.

Sorce
Thanks for your thoughts! Yes, I've definitely done enough for now and will let it recover for a few years.

When you say "remove" the middle trunk, do you mean above the first branch on the right or completely remove it?

20200301_140933-2.jpg

20200301_140933-3.jpg
 

Bolero

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It was better in the Before picture, more Naturalistic.....now it looks like some disease got it...stick it n a corner somewhere and let it fill out again, 2 or 3 years maybe....
 
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sorce

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Thanks for your thoughts! Yes, I've definitely done enough for now and will let it recover for a few years.

When you say "remove" the middle trunk, do you mean above the first branch on the right or completely remove it?

View attachment 286377

View attachment 286378


The top pic, then maybe bringing the foilage masses closer together. About half and half.

Sorce
 

Japonicus

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I'm normally a deciduous guy...really tested my patience... it was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be.
Now that wasn't so bad was it? I'm in the other boat. Deciduous trees are much more complex and try my patience.
I think you did a fine job of thinning this out. The before picture certainly showed that it needed thinning, and was starting
to get that pom pom look, and heavy on the exterior. The only way to send energy back to the interior is too not let
the exterior free rule indefinitely . It does not, look like it is stricken with some disease, but the wiring is in need of some
continuity. That left trunk looks great from above, and while young, this Fall would be the best time to rewire it with some
good annealed copper wire, and twist it into the viewing field. So you'll wire both trunks with one wire, the 1st branch on the
right trunk (same sized trunk centrally located) gets the same wire as well. The left trunk (upper half) is currently coiled in the proper direction to twist the tree
but the bottom portion of the trunk has no effective wire on it for this. Not a good time to wire that out right now. Let it be till the wire
starts digging in and it will before Summer in some places.
Here's a good wiring link add the free class to your cart (buy single class) then you can watch it over and over and add notes to the time line as wel
for future quick reference ;)
 

TN_Jim

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Good things here.
@Japonicus I’m picking up what you are putting down.

The only thing that really sticks out is the lower section of the left trunk. Sure it’s straight while pretty much the entire tree has some movement -I wonder if just shaving down that branch cut could help this alone rather than some kind of slight bend there..photo/angle maybe
Is a bend there something?...is there any merit to not addressing this?
 

Shibui

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A slight change of viewing angle can make a big difference in how we see trunk lines , branches and apex. Try turning the tree slightly right and left to see how that changes the perception.
Twin trunk at 90deg is rarely the best option. Almost always better when the smaller trunk is slightly in front or behind the larger one.

This tree has just been styled. Rarely are they at peak right after styling. The foliage areas will bulk up as they grow and change the look completely.
I think it is OK. May need some minor tweaks later but good bones for now.
Just let it grow a bit for now.
 

jaco94

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Same opinion as the previous one , let the tree regain strenght , maybe , later it can be tilt further to the left : it's direction is more harmonious ( main trunk and apex vertical ) .

20200303_095438.jpg
 

GrampaMoses

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Thanks for all the feedback, lots to conisder!

It was better in the Before picture, more Naturalistic.....now it looks like some disease got it...stick it n a corner somewhere and let it fill out again, 2 or 3 years maybe....

My goal was to emulate my favorite bonsai artist, Harry Harrington, by using his thinning out page as a benchmark.


Screen Shot 2020-03-03 at 1.21.41 PM.png

Obviously, I'm not as skillful as him, and perhaps I did remove too much foliage in my attempt, but you gotta learn by trying right? Maybe I'll do better next time. And yes, I won't touch this tree again for 2-3 years.

That left trunk looks great from above, and while young, this Fall would be the best time to rewire it with some
good annealed copper wire, and twist it into the viewing field.

I'll definitely consider doing that in the future. I will look into that wiring video! I like Colin Lewis. I was fortunate enough to have Mauro Stemberger come to my bonsai club 2 years ago to give a wiring lecture, but it's been a while, so I could use a refresher.

Twin trunk at 90deg is rarely the best option. Almost always better when the smaller trunk is slightly in front or behind the larger one.

Thanks for this! I've never considered this before, but I will be looking at it differently once I get home.
 

Bolero

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Good to hear back from you ... I suspect you will have a very nice career in Bonsai Gardening, you take Critiquing very well and you are off to a very good and informative start.
Stick with Shimpaku's they are a very good Bonsai plant to work with ...
 

Japonicus

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Good things here.
@Japonicus I’m picking up what you are putting down.

The only thing that really sticks out is the lower section of the left trunk. Sure it’s straight while pretty much the entire tree has some movement -I wonder if just shaving down that branch cut could help this alone rather than some kind of slight bend there..photo/angle maybe
Is a bend there something?...is there any merit to not addressing this?
Unfortunately I'm lost in your thought..." I’m picking up what you are putting down".
Then...are you saying that the left trunk being straight should be removed so as to not be
contrary to the central? I have brain fog sorry.
I'm of the opinion to work with it till a later date (not removing right away) revisit it,
take to a work shop and broaden horizons by getting more shimpaku and working them.
At minimum, should the left trunk be removed...leaving it wild, will at least bulk up for a jin.
I would twist it in the direction the wire is spiraled in the upper half of that trunk,
but think I'm misunderstanding your post Jim, sorry.
 

TN_Jim

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Unfortunately I'm lost in your thought..." I’m picking up what you are putting down".
Then...are you saying that the left trunk being straight should be removed so as to not be
contrary to the central? I have brain fog sorry.
I'm of the opinion to work with it till a later date (not removing right away) revisit it,
take to a work shop and broaden horizons by getting more shimpaku and working them.
At minimum, should the left trunk be removed...leaving it wild, will at least bulk up for a jin.
I would twist it in the direction the wire is spiraled in the upper half of that trunk,
but think I'm misunderstanding your post Jim, sorry.
When I said -I’m picking up what you are putting down
I was saying that I appreciate everything you said in post #6

Going beyond that I wasn’t suggesting removing the left trunk, but rather fixing it’s base. Shibui made an interesting point to this regarding the current planting angle with trunks on the same plane.

Regarding that base (the only thing that seems out of place in the composition) I still think it could possibly be bent, or if nothing else, trim down the reverse taper at the area where a branch was cut seen here:
F0DFF94A-0E93-4F19-816C-FA0A60A7DE7E.jpeg
 

Japonicus

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When I said -I’m picking up what you are putting down
I was saying that I appreciate everything you said in post #6

Going beyond that I wasn’t suggesting removing the left trunk, but rather fixing it’s base. Shibui made an interesting point to this regarding the current planting angle with trunks on the same plane.

Regarding that base (the only thing that seems out of place in the composition) I still think it could possibly be bent, or if nothing else, trim down the reverse taper at the area where a branch was cut seen here:
View attachment 286635
Thank you!
Ah! now I get the "shave the branch down part".
Somehow I interpreted that to shave it off. Told ya I have brain fog.
Yup I see what you mean on the reverse taper, and when I said the left trunk looked great from above
I meant the branching and foliage, so I meant the overall impression of the left trunk.
Yes, the viewing angle is on different planes, but enough wiring at this point in time
except to cut the wire off come May.

Full Sun good hydration
All I've done in that 2 years is slip pot it into a deeper pot
When was this slip potting done and did you notice if the roots had been worked before
ridding the nursery soil? (is it all bonsai soil?)
 

GrampaMoses

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When was this slip potting done and did you notice if the roots had been worked before
ridding the nursery soil? (is it all bonsai soil?)
I bought it in Sept of 2018 from another member of my bonsai club in a shallow pot with bonsai soil. That same fall I slip potted it into a deeper pot and it looked like there was no nursery soil present, however, I didn't disturb the roots to look deeper into the root ball. The foliage was a sort of pale green at the time.

In 2019, it was in dappled light all year, getting direct morning and evening sunlight, but shaded partially by a honey locust tree during the heat of the day. It grew a decent amount of new foliage and got a deeper green during the year. Fertilizing was light, Osmocote slow release 14-14-14 (4 month) applied once in spring and once in fall.

This year, I was planning to place it in full sun and fertilize more regularly, the same twice a year Osmocote treatment with an additional bi weekly liquid organic fertilizing (the regular schedule for the rest of my trees). I check my trees daily and usually water every other day in spring and fall, but every day in summer. I can do a daily evening misting of the foliage on this one if that will help it recover.
 

Mike Corazzi

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Well, it has dry yellow foliage so it appears to be following the normal course of the Corazzi juniper strain.
 

Japonicus

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Really just cleaning up the branches would have been a 1st step and stopping point...in June. Removing under growth on branches.
Well, it has dry yellow foliage so it appears to be following the normal course of the Corazzi juniper strain.
In the before picture it was already yellowing, which meant it was not up to the task.
You spent 4 hours that was not easy peasy time spent and difficult. Again, this is the wrong time to wire conifers
especially if it doesn't come second nature to you how much moving, a branch can take. Have to tone down bends
as well as just plain ole movement of a branch back n forth this time of year a lot.
Left trunk, left branch, wire is too big. That's hard one you and the subject both. The branch appears damaged
whether it's a wound from a cut or a break there near the shoulder from bending, cant tell.
If a wound, a stub should heave been left and a dab of cut paste applied. I suspect branches maybe been over worked, seperating the cambium layer.

What I would have done, would be to inspect the roots. it's march, so I'd do that April/May.
The drainage when watered is a good visual check any time, but also the smell, and any clues to gnats
around the surface. If all is well on the feet end of things, and the yellowing is why I would check the feet 1st...
then simply remove undergrowth on the branches, overly thin twigs, and any yellowing exterior growth.
Allow it to grow on and gain vigour...see note 2
I didn't disturb the roots to look deeper into the root ball. The foliage was a sort of pale green at the time.
You lost a year that could've been more root beneficial, and possibly allowed a root issue to go unchecked.
Up or slip potting not the best choice at that time I don't think.
In 2019, it was in dappled light all year, getting direct morning and evening sunlight, but shaded partially by a honey locust tree
Honey Locust trees foliage provide a unique pleasant dappled shade which is good for the first 4-6 weeks.
Starving the tree of the best energy source all year long however is counter productive, but you did notice
new growth due to new roots, in the new soil, but old growth looks more old and more yellow no doubt
possibly a direct reflection of what is going on under the soil.

Note 2 after this years growth, some thinning. Spend time with the branches, each and every one of them
and groom with your mind more than with your tools. We want a lot of crazy good healthy foliage and strength
going into a potting up (the year prior we want this vigour). You want to thin keeping wiring in mind as you go
and finalise y tour thinning before you wire following your cues from earlier grooming where you're getting more
intimate with your subject. Like folding down a braches foliage between your middle and index fingers gently
and mentally removing that foliage back to an upper growing shoot which will be wired down to take the place
of the removed shoot, shortening the branch, pushing strength back interiorly. You just have to keep some good
valid green growth inside the cut to draw sap and receive Sun to feed the plant. The longer you leave exterior growth on
the quicker the interior foliage weakens. You have to balance what you keep for Sun, and what you thin.
May is good time for me to pot up junipers that are ready for it
and Ca. zone 9 April surely would be fine, but not yours this year.
I do pruning including drastic pruning in July, and thin thereafter
through late August. The tree is growing at these times and heals well. Then in Autumn, wire following your cues.
You will have been through it with this and that branch mentally and have a better idea what to do.
It helps facilitate your wiring application, making a job a chore, or a chore a relaxing yet mental expression
of everything you've been through with the subject that year. Yeh, the pride you felt when you took the pictures above.
Follow these steps and the likes of others that help, and your work will continue rewarding, to the following year.
I may need some help with my maples and crab apple this year and be asking some particulars from ya...
Seems I do ok with them as long as they're in the ground or attached to the tree in the ground.
 

GrampaMoses

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Thanks so much for taking the time to write that all out for me @Japonicus ! I've read it through several times and will reference what you said before I work on this tree again. Timing for Junipers and other conifers is different than deciduous and I need to learn that.
 

Japonicus

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Thanks so much for taking the time to write that all out for me @Japonicus ! I've read it through several times and will reference what you said before I work on this tree again. Timing for Junipers and other conifers is different than deciduous and I need to learn that.
Here's one of my shimpaku. It will be getting its' 1st pot this Spring...12 years after I got it
and it has been in the same nursery can since before I got it.
I still think the thinning you did was great, just wasn't ready for that yet. Your method was effective at thinning.
Thinning is counted as an insult, so if the roots need attention I wish you luck.
Full Sun and proper hydration is your best ally this year I think.
 
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