Shimpaku Project

[herzausstahl]

It immediately started showing signs of stress from being underpotted, so I moved it back to a deeper pot, and it bounced right back. It was really strange to see how quickly it responded to both. I later sold it to a fellow B-Nutter, @mattspiniken so he can update us if he wants. Last I saw, it was looking good on his bench.

I have grown out stock for bonsai in the ground, but I just don't have room or time anymore, so I don't do much at this point; a few junipers in the ground, which I do wire for movement, and chop low...really low, then let them grow wild.

Here are a couple kishus, 7-8 years old that grew to 15" tall, 36" wide, which I chopped back really hard last summer. I'm growing them to be finished trees at 18-22" tall, but they were chopped back to 4-5" tall, and will be allowed to grow again for another 5-6 years, and they will be chopped back hard again. At some point, an interesting feature will emerge; likely not of my doing, and that will be the basis for the tree's design.
View attachment 131280 View attachment 131281 View attachment 131282 View attachment 131283

The few D-trees I'm growing out are in Anderson flats, on the ground, with roots that have escaped to the point that they're basically in the ground.
View attachment 131284 View attachment 131285
My best advice to you is to get the roots right first, then chop the trunks low...much lower than you may instinctively think, because in a pot, movement in the lower couple inches makes or breaks a tree.

Thanks for the good advice! I like your cutting back idea. Gives me time to learn to keep Them alive on other trees while letting them develop in the ground so by the time they are ready to become something hopefully I'll have learned on lesser trees the techniques to do it properly. Given the fact I've only secondarily focused on bonsai due to creating my ponds I have some trees that have been left to grow unchecked. Also a few old gold & other junipers in my garden landscape that have grown large. I'll share pics in spring to see if you guys think how much they could be cut back. Would you consider healing in nursery pots to let the roots escape an effective way to still let them grow out? I had a few Dawn Redwoods that I grew out from seedlings in growbeds that I dug up & replanted in the same growbeds last year. Thought process was to sever the tap roots on them as I failed to plant them over tiles. I noticed it was a bit difficult to get to the roots without significant damage to other roots, so I was curious if the healing technique could allow them to grow well but then only needing to severe the "escape" roots, leaving a decent root system intact. Or would I need to worry about circling roots too much?

 

[herzausstahl]

Also do you have any advice when collecting ground grown stock to ensure a successful collection?

 

[sorce]

Herz got a couple questions there Brian.

I may have the branching to make almost an exact replica of yours!

I'm not into biting but I think it could serve as a killer practice tool!

Thanks!

Sorce

 

[bonhe]

Brian Van Fleet
I have grown out stock for bonsai in the ground, but I just don't have room or time anymore, so I don't do much at this point; a few junipers in the ground, which I do wire for movement, and chop low...really low, then let them grow wild.

. At some point, an interesting feature will emerge; likely not of my doing, and that will be the basis for the tree's design.
The next generation will really appreciate what you are doing at this time.

My best advice to you is to get the roots right first, then chop the trunks low...much lower than you may instinctively think, because in a pot, movement in the lower couple inches makes or breaks a tree
Same with twisting the seedling trunk. You should twist, turn forward and backward of the trunk as much as you could.
Bonhe

 

[ChristianDGreat]

@Brian Van Fleet

Awesome Thread.

By the way when do you usually create shari?
Or making shari larger?

Thanks
Chris

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

@Brian Van Fleet

Awesome Thread.

By the way when do you usually create shari?
Or making shari larger?

Thanks
Chris

Spring, just as it is coming out of dormancy, or early fall, just as the heat breaks.

 

[Stella]

I have learned so much reading through this thread.
going to try creating my junipers shari using this method.

 

[Stella]

Can I ask some advise here?
I have this tiny juniper with a natural wound that has almost healed up.
After reading through your thread I would like to start creating a Shari starting here. So when you open this up, how much do you remove to start with? And when should I do this. It is the start of spring here now.
The whole trunk is about 8cm long with the wound about 2cm long. Trunk almost 2 cm thick.
This will be a mame tree. There is 1 long branch that will be wired and interesting movement created

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Can I ask some advise here?
I have this tiny juniper with a natural wound that has almost healed up.
After reading through your thread I would like to start creating a Shari starting here. So when you open this up, how much do you remove to start with? And when should I do this. It is the start of spring here now.
The whole trunk is about 8cm long with the wound about 2cm long. Trunk almost 2 cm thick.
This will be a mame tree. There is 1 long branch that will be wired and interesting movement created

Now is a good time. Start with the red oval, using a sharp knife, trace the edge. Only remove the bark and cambium, leaving the shiny bright wood exposed which will have some texture from the wound closing. You want to leave that and show that detail.

Later you can extend the top oval as shown in the blue lines, and also make an oval as shown in blue down low, it will help reduce the appearance of reverse taper.

 

[Vance Wood]

Now is a good time. Start with the red oval, using a sharp knife, trace the edge. Only remove the bark and cambium, leaving the shiny bright wood exposed which will have some texture from the wound closing. You want to leave that and show that detail.
View attachment 401085
Later you can extend the top oval as shown in the blue lines, and also make an oval as shown in blue down low, it will help reduce the appearance of reverse taper.
View attachment 401086

How about a picture of the entire tree?????? You may be looking at putting a tuxedo on a pig, maybe not.

 

[Stella]

O man. Almost afraid to post a pic of the whole tree as I can already see the comments coming.
So keep in mind, this tree nearly died last season, so this year is a recovery season. This only remaining branch will be wired and placed into position with some nice movement and intention to make use of the remaining foliage. Probably only in March or April.
This tree is growing well so far and there is a big burst of new growth all over the branch. Even some new buds growing out.
That main trunk is about 2,5 cm above the soil after the repot. I will chance the angle slightly to lift it up a bit more.
The sketch is what I can manage showing my current plan for the tree somewhat between slanting and semi -cascade.
Note the other thing - junipers don't grow here Naturally. So just go buying better stock is not really an option. And juniper that have decent trunks and have been worked on for bonsai is immensely expensive. Junipers being sealed as pre bonsai is typically 5-8 years old. As I got this one 1 year ago

 

[Stella]

Now is a good time. Start with the red oval, using a sharp knife, trace the edge. Only remove the bark and cambium, leaving the shiny bright wood exposed which will have some texture from the wound closing. You want to leave that and show that detail.
View attachment 401085
Later you can extend the top oval as shown in the blue lines, and also make an oval as shown in blue down low, it will help reduce the appearance of reverse taper.
View attachment 401086

Thank you so much for this. Appreciate the advise. Excited to start with this