Shimpaku Propogating

Johnathan

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Gearing up for summer, and I've read different opinions on when to try and root cuttings. I've heard Jan or Feb, but also July as well.

I wanted to try and get some of this 1 gallon juniper to propogate.

Do I need to cut it all the way down to the hardened portion I've circled, or can I just use the new green?

For growing, I was looking at some humidity domes full of perlite stashed under the bench, until next spring. I think I read @Brian Van Fleet stash his cuttings there.

Am I on the right track? Advice? Suggestions?

Thanks guys!
 

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sorce

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I heard March is a good time.

But id do it anyway!

Sorce
 

JoeR

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March is best for you without a doubt. IME, and others' as well, matchstick to pencil sized cuttings root best when taken early March. Perlite worked well for me.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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I've had good luck except in months starting with J...
Use lignified shoots; 4" long or so, just like the area you circled. They should have runners and the cut end should be just starting to get woody. Plant them in pine bark/perlite soil, in the shade and mist often. I get about 50-60% without much effort. Give it s shot!
 

Johnathan

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Here's a closer look at them. I really want to grow out this shimpaku but figured a little expierence with some cuttings couldn't hurt since I want to thin it out a bit.

Maybe I will give it a shot with a couple of them this summer and save some for March. Will they still be useable for propogating if I wait until March, or too "hard" by then?
 

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drew33998

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They wont make it if you strike them this summer. I have had luck in october and feb or march. Of course my growing seasin extends into early december some years...
 

zelk

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They wont make it if you strike them this summer. I have had luck in october and feb or march. Of course my growing seasin extends into early december some years...
Why not?

If he cuts down to the brown woody section it won't root or do you mean if he cuts off the green only?

I have had succsss rooting woody cuttings all time of year except the months of dormancy which generally take longer.


To root I place them in 1:1 perlite and horticultural sand.

Under shade cloth, constantly damp, I transplant when I find new growth, usually very safe after 6-8 months
 

drew33998

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I should have said i have never had luck in the summer myself. Go for it. All you stand to do is learn something
 

drew33998

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Why not?

If he cuts down to the brown woody section it won't root or do you mean if he cuts off the green only?

I have had succsss rooting woody cuttings all time of year except the months of dormancy which generally take longer.


To root I place them in 1:1 perlite and horticultural sand.

Under shade cloth, constantly damp, I transplant when I find new growth, usually very safe after 6-8 months
Your climate is much cooler than mine. Looks like your average high temp in august and july are 77 degrees. Mine is 90.
 

Eric Group

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I have had success during the Soring and Summer... tried a bunch during the January/February recommendations people gave me for my area and I felt I had lower success rates during that time than I did during the growing season... just my experience..
 

Johnathan

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Well I figured why not try.

I took 6 cuttings about 1 inch of "woody" growth on them. Cut some of the runner off. I then stripped about 1/4 inch of each down to green (maybe a little deeper:confused:) dipped in rooting hormone and then planted.

The 4 in black pots are 100% perlite and the 2 brown are about 50/50 perlite and small NAPA DE (Its all I had:cool:) just as an experiment I guess.

I placed them into this plastic container on a stone, poured a little water into it and misted really well.

Time will tell, but my only question is should I place a white shirt/towel on top to try and keep it as humid as possible in there? The container pictured ia pretty much what I'm using.
 

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Dav4

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They can't be covered as they need some light. Place them in the shade and try to mist them multiple times a day until you see signs of active growth. Then, you can give them more sun. I make my cuttings in winter and place them on the ground under my benches. Many of them will show signs of growth in a few months while a few others brown up and crumble. I will also get a few that stay green but show no signs of growth until a full year has passed but then they take off.
 

Bonsai Nut

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Well I figured why not try.

Everything about your setup looks good except the dark box covers. As Dav4 said, the cuttings need light. I use buckets with saran wrap over the top, or black plastic nursery pots with clear plastic dome lids that I make from clear deli containers like these:

1128174.jpg

The key points:
(1) Moist, but not wet, media
(2) High humidity surrounding the foliage
(3) Bright light, but not direct sunlight

I have rooted some pretty big shimpaku cuttings at more or less all times of the year, but I live in a tropical environment. If I strike cuttings while the trees are d0rmant in the winter, they don't do much until the weather warms up in the spring, but otherwise seem to root just as well as any other time - just slower.
 

Johnathan

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Went with a bigger setup and some heavy ass peice of tile laying around. Not sure what it was, but it was heavy lol my hope is that it works as a heating stone, and of course works as a stool to keep them from sitting in water.

Tossed a couple Mugo cuttings in as well. They got the cut down and hormone treatment also, not sure if they are even from the right part of the tree to root properly. :confused: ... But this was never about them :cool: lol

Got it saran wrapped with an easy access flap on the top, and under the bench.

Thanks everyone for your guidance
 

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Bonsai Nut

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I almost stopped saving shimpaku cuttings because I have too many shimpakus. I don't use rooting hormone or do anything special - just toss them into 100% pumice, cover and keep them moist.
 
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